Track Enkei Raijin 18x9.5 and RS-3
#22
so as long as im not slammed, i look into these offset bushings, i should be able to get enough camber to make the guards miss the rim.. i look at the pic and wonder if thats possible but you guys know best!!!
#23
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do you mean +35 to be safe?
whats a good value for money camber arms and what amount would i need? toe also ? (like bc racing coil overs, you can get alot better (tein) but for the money the BC are great..) Hardrace ones ? http://justjap.com/store/product.php...61&cat=&page=1
whats a good value for money camber arms and what amount would i need? toe also ? (like bc racing coil overs, you can get alot better (tein) but for the money the BC are great..) Hardrace ones ? http://justjap.com/store/product.php...61&cat=&page=1
SPL is my favorite, but i have been running a set of Megan front arms on my car for the past 4 years.
#24
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That offset calculator didn't compensate for the width of a wheel, which also affects offset. For the given difference in width of a wheel, you take half the total deviation (I.e. 10" to 9.5" = .5" deviation) and apply it to the offset. Your current 10" width +30 offset is only 8.65mm less agressive than those 9.5 + 15's. (take .5" off the 10" to make the rims the same width. When you do this, you adjust the offset. .5"/2 = .25" converted into mm = 6.35mm [25.4 mm per 1"] so from there, your 10" + 30 is the equivalent in position to a 9.5 + 23.65. From there, subtract the difference in offset between the newly converted wheel and the wheel you want).
I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
#25
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You don't want offset bushings. They are MAJOR PITA to install. The only reason we (racers) use them is aftermarket control arms are not legal for our racing class. There is no reason not to just buy aftermarket arms. Also, you would have to have them made, they are not available off the shelf.
#26
That offset calculator didn't compensate for the width of a wheel, which also affects offset. For the given difference in width of a wheel, you take half the total deviation (I.e. 10" to 9.5" = .5" deviation) and apply it to the offset. Your current 10" width +30 offset is only 8.65mm less agressive than those 9.5 + 15's. (take .5" off the 10" to make the rims the same width. When you do this, you adjust the offset. .5"/2 = .25" converted into mm = 6.35mm [25.4 mm per 1"] so from there, your 10" + 30 is the equivalent in position to a 9.5 + 23.65. From there, subtract the difference in offset between the newly converted wheel and the wheel you want).
I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
You don't want offset bushings. They are MAJOR PITA to install. The only reason we (racers) use them is aftermarket control arms are not legal for our racing class. There is no reason not to just buy aftermarket arms. Also, you would have to have them made, they are not available off the shelf.
Last edited by R6n350GT; 04-10-2012 at 05:24 AM.
#27
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Just the front end, upper camber arm is needed. The rear end is a different story, most cars will align OK if you don't go to low on the rear.
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