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Track Enkei Raijin 18x9.5 and RS-3

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:39 AM
  #21  
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It's easy. No, I don't have aftermarket control arms. I do have offset bushing in my UCA's to get some additional camber. My car isn't slammed in the least, but is about ~1.3" lower than stock.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:57 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
It's easy. No, I don't have aftermarket control arms. I do have offset bushing in my UCA's to get some additional camber. My car isn't slammed in the least, but is about ~1.3" lower than stock.
ill have to look up offset bushings as i dont know what they are.
so as long as im not slammed, i look into these offset bushings, i should be able to get enough camber to make the guards miss the rim.. i look at the pic and wonder if thats possible but you guys know best!!!
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
do you mean +35 to be safe?

whats a good value for money camber arms and what amount would i need? toe also ? (like bc racing coil overs, you can get alot better (tein) but for the money the BC are great..) Hardrace ones ? http://justjap.com/store/product.php...61&cat=&page=1
+15, but safe on the tires for the front.

SPL is my favorite, but i have been running a set of Megan front arms on my car for the past 4 years.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:03 AM
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That offset calculator didn't compensate for the width of a wheel, which also affects offset. For the given difference in width of a wheel, you take half the total deviation (I.e. 10" to 9.5" = .5" deviation) and apply it to the offset. Your current 10" width +30 offset is only 8.65mm less agressive than those 9.5 + 15's. (take .5" off the 10" to make the rims the same width. When you do this, you adjust the offset. .5"/2 = .25" converted into mm = 6.35mm [25.4 mm per 1"] so from there, your 10" + 30 is the equivalent in position to a 9.5 + 23.65. From there, subtract the difference in offset between the newly converted wheel and the wheel you want).

I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:05 AM
  #25  
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You don't want offset bushings. They are MAJOR PITA to install. The only reason we (racers) use them is aftermarket control arms are not legal for our racing class. There is no reason not to just buy aftermarket arms. Also, you would have to have them made, they are not available off the shelf.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Amirs350z
That offset calculator didn't compensate for the width of a wheel, which also affects offset. For the given difference in width of a wheel, you take half the total deviation (I.e. 10" to 9.5" = .5" deviation) and apply it to the offset. Your current 10" width +30 offset is only 8.65mm less agressive than those 9.5 + 15's. (take .5" off the 10" to make the rims the same width. When you do this, you adjust the offset. .5"/2 = .25" converted into mm = 6.35mm [25.4 mm per 1"] so from there, your 10" + 30 is the equivalent in position to a 9.5 + 23.65. From there, subtract the difference in offset between the newly converted wheel and the wheel you want).

I know, it looks like a mess, but the more you do it, the better you'll understand it and the easier it'll be calculated in your head.
Oh thanks, i get it, so really its not 15mm further but around ~6.5mm (makes the back fit easy), front a little better...i dont have that 6.5mm but not as bad.. u think the amount of stock camber adjustment could dial that in? my height should keep it away from the rim but again on turning and downforce while breaking is what im worried bout .. but *** it, ill get the +15 and figure it out!!!

Originally Posted by terrasmak
+15, but safe on the tires for the front.

SPL is my favorite, but i have been running a set of Megan front arms on my car for the past 4 years.
ok cool, if i have to get them and cant afford the SPL then at least i know megan is another one i can get.. just the top camber or bottom toe arm adjustment too?

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
You don't want offset bushings. They are MAJOR PITA to install. The only reason we (racers) use them is aftermarket control arms are not legal for our racing class. There is no reason not to just buy aftermarket arms. Also, you would have to have them made, they are not available off the shelf.
yeah i just read a thread of calculations and custom making them..

Last edited by R6n350GT; Apr 10, 2012 at 05:24 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:05 AM
  #27  
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Just the front end, upper camber arm is needed. The rear end is a different story, most cars will align OK if you don't go to low on the rear.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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The Kinetix brand front upper control arms are another good choice for "budget arms".
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Old May 13, 2012 | 02:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AllstarE4
The Kinetix brand front upper control arms are another good choice for "budget arms".
Thanks

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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Just the front end, upper camber arm is needed. The rear end is a different story, most cars will align OK if you don't go to low on the rear.
Ok thanks, saves me some $ then

Gonna fit them tomorrow, any suggestions on camber and toe with stock camber arms ?

Last edited by R6n350GT; May 13, 2012 at 02:46 AM.
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