blam3d

iTrader: (-1)

Nice and helpful reply there, Mod.

blam3d

iTrader: (-1)

That's how its sitting now, it's settled in a little bit so its a tad lower. And yes, i have 15mm spacers up front and 20mm spacers out back. 19x9.5 -3 wrapped in 225/35/19 up front and 19x11 -5 wrapped in 255/35/19 out back. I just placed an order for more studs, any tips when pulling these through the hub? Ive just about tried it all hence why im here asking you guys for help... And yes i have looked behind the hub as some of you mentioned and the studs head looks flush with the hub, i even got a dollar bill to make sure it didnt have a gap, and it didnt it looked perfect..

AdvanZ33

iTrader: (105)

What brand spacers? Bolt-on or slip-on?

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

What brand and length studs? What type and brand of spacers? What angle lugnut and type of wheel? Buy a torque wrench, torque to 80#ft.

blam3d

iTrader: (-1)

I got my spacers from Z1 Motorsports, and i got the 20mm extended Z1 motorsports studs.

blam3d

iTrader: (-1)

Are you saying to torque my studs through the hub at 80#ft? I thought the lugs were supposed to be torqued to 80#ft?

BipJip

Op The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, expecting a diffrent result. I think it's time for the rubber room and a new jacket!!

taywan

iTrader: (53)

I'm not sure if u got studs that are too long. If they are, you are tightening them until it hits the inside of the lug nut-(assuming there prob closed ends). So it's as tight as it'll go, but not as tight as you need against the wheel. So the wheel is now riding on the stud over and over down the road until it wears into the stud and eventually breaks.

Could be something else also tho. GL

freddys 350z

^could be. but this should be common sense. op, please tell us you checked this.

AdvanZ33

iTrader: (105)

If that were the case I would think there would be some serious vibration going on if all 4 wheels weren't spinning true.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Buy ARP studs, feed them thru , install 5 hardened washers , install open ended lug nut ( flat side towards washers) , lub thread, smoothly tighten lug nut (NO IMPACT) till it is full pulled thru , repeat till all studs are replaced.

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

No one noticed this?

When installed the studs incorrectly the first time you screwed up the holes in the hub and their too big for the studs and their coming loose. You need a new wheel hub.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The hub is much more hardened than the studs. I did than a problem like this in the past, my extended studs has a 1mm longer shoulder length than factory ( Ichiba studs ) and the hole tolerance on my wilwood brakes better than the factory brake rotors. When everything was tight the rotor was riding on the stud shoulder and not sandwiched to the hub. Was only a hair or two of play , but would shred the stud over a week or two.

Figured it out, opened the holes on the rotors slightly and good now. Also changed to APR studs, they will not have this problem.

The OP could have a similer problem. Rotor catching the stud shoulder, hub centric spacer defective and not sitting flat against the rotor, or the hub ring to wheel could be causing the problem.

After a few months of changing studs, my hub showed no signs of wear.

mr. sparco

iTrader: (13)

You mean I can't just jump on the lug wrench a few times? Damn!

suprasam

^^Truth there is no need for an impact when installing the studs. I'm a small guy and was able to apply enough for to get the studs to seat properly. Have you verified the pitch of the lug nuts to the studs?

freddys 350z

guessed i missed this. i thought he was breaking studs....

if this is the case, yeah, he needs new hubs. might as well change the bearings while he is at it. (front hubs are a single piece)

mattman87

I've been reading these forums for 7 years and am still learning. I've been posting recently to help keep these forums alive. I just wanna toss this out there:

Have you tried rotating hardware and seeing if the problem follows or stays put? Granted it may be expensive, but if it is possible to isolate the problem by a wheel rotation, or a more specific rotation with the hub (that I don't mess with)....as the doctors say, it may not identify the problem, but it will isolate the solution. If the problem occurs on the new wheel, change that crap, if you change the wheels and the problem moves with the wheel, change the wheel.


I understand this isn't so much as a solution as a method to the madness of your problem.

I just wanna keep the forums alive haha