....Once in a while I've been seeing my SLIP light turn on when I make turns... I dont know if this normal...This has been happening eversince I installed my Rims volk gt's front:19x8.5 +23 rear:19x9.5+24..in put on some nitto 555 front:245/35/19r and rear:275/30/19r...It was balanced and everything...I wonder if it is because of the rear tires are smaller???Got them at Americas tire co....I couldnt find any 275/35/19...hope that it is ok.

 

the 275/30 is the problem...even though some members here runn em, but a 275/35 is a better choice and close to stock than a 30 series in the rear.

 

Yep, the 30 profile is the problem.

I can't beleive I have venders and or other wheel dealers telling me I need a 30 profile on a 19 inch rim and that a 35 is to tall.

35 would be the correct profile..

 

I have stock tires and rims the same thing is happening to me....
I have not done anything to the car with the wheels.

 

It has to do with traction. If the car senses slippage (loss of traction) the light will turn on. Turn it off one day (I have traction control) and take the same turn. Be prepared to fishtail the car.

 

Thanks.

 

if its cold where you live now,the slip light will come on a lot more frequently when taking turns... i have stock 17's and it happens noticeably more when its cold out, i guess cause the rubber hardens up and their not as sticky.

 

good info. thanks drivencsz...

 

I find it somewhat happens at low speeds in cold weather. almost as if the LSD is forcing the inside wheel to turn too fast, and it kinda scrapes a little. slip light will sometimes blink.

in your case, its likely the 30series. think of it this way, the car doesnt know how fast its actually going, it only knows how fast each tire is spinning. now it has an assumption the for ever 1rev in front the backs being slightly larger will do maybe .95 revolutions. but you now have a smaller rear tire, so its doing more like 1.05revolutions. 99% of the time, the car is ok with this tiny difference, but this change does mimic that of a burnout(back wheels spinning faster than the fronts) in certain cases in turns and gear shifts ect, you are more likely to cross the line between acceptable variation and what it perceives as loss of traction.

long explanation, but hope that helps explain it.

 

Thank you.

 

I had asked about lowering springs and going with the Eibach Pro kit, and saw that you have the tires I want to change to.

Is the problem with the SLIP light actually the 30's or not? I was going with 35s so do we "know" there won't be a problem there?

Any input/suggestions on the springs?

thanks

 

The problem IS the 30 series tire. The 35 profile will ocrrect your problem on a 19 inch rim.

The springs are great and lower the car perfectly, however it will wear your stock shocks out in about 12k miles or so. So you will need to upgrade them later on. ( Koni and Beilstein are in the process of making some )

 

I'm assuming that the tire/wheel faq I saw somewhere around here will explain the ratios and problems, right?

Without any facts, it's possible since I have 18's and the 30 or 35 might be ok?

Also as far as the shocks, there is going to be additional wear do to them being "compressed" more often vs relaxed? There isn't anything out there now to contend with this if you lower?

Thanks for your input

 

You have 18's? You will want a 40 ( Or bigger? Not sure... )

35 profile for a 19 incher.
30 profile for a 20 incher.

Someone else will need to get in on this about the shocks wearing out faster. All I know is that is what happens when you get new stiffer springs, and that is how long people on this forum has told me I'd have before they wear out...

 

My wheel/tire shop was suggesting the 40's I just didn't know what the overall impact would be on driving Vs looks with 40's vs 30/35.

I still would like as much standard drivability in conjunction with the performance kick when called for.

I'm going to the Nitto as they offer the best wear in that category. Category for me is perfoformance/looks under $300.00 per tire and 300 tread wear.

How's that?

 

anybody knows will a 18/35(Front) and 18/40 (rear) ok?
thanks

 

shuld run a 245/40/18f and 275/40/18r

unless u wanna run 275/35/18 front

 

I will say it again.. A 40 profile is what you want for 18's. If you really want a 35 profile get 19's.

18's = 40
19's = 35
20's = 30

Both front AND back.

Very simple and that is what people should stick to You need to keep the overal diameter of the tire the same and getting a different size other then posted above will change that. Which in turn can skrew up your TCS/VDC, speedo, and odometer. (however, very slightly for the speedo/odometer.)

 

I have the problem stock, but at the top of 4th gear. There are some spots (very gradual turn) that I can do it all the time, but even going straight when I floor it occaisionally. With the TCS off, the car feels perfect (and not near the limit), but with it on, it obviously bogs. Due to the speed it occurs at, the dealer can't fix it, either I'm finiding it hard to believe I'm spinning the wheels in those conditions, but since I mostly drive with the TCS off, I'm not too worried about it. My real concern is that it's an indication of another problem.

 

so both rear and front should have the same #(both 40) inorder to not to screw up my vdc?