Hi guys so sucks that the gtr rims got sold, then by luck I came by used 370z Nismo rims powder coated new for 1k but with a 4 hr round trip so my next question is there anything I should watch out for to be genuine not some replica here a pic from the listing






19x9.5 and 19x10.5 ,
Never bought used rims before thanks for any input


I also would like to know why there are different rears 19x10 and 19x10.5 when I was searching the internet

 

The rears are 10.5", the 10" you've seen have probably been typos.

When you look at used wheels, just make sure they aren't bent or damaged, look for any previous repairs, weld repairs on a forged wheel can weaken it and render it much more susceptible to future damage.

I'm not aware of replicas of those wheels, so they're probably authentic, but they usually get powdercoated when they had to refinish them due to some sort of damage. Maybe just curb rash but look them over and see.

 

One thing to know is that you'll need Z34 lug nuts to go with those wheels. They use a different lug seat and shank to secure the wheels. They can't be adapted to use the Z33 acorn-style lug nut.

 

Another thing to consider is offset, do you want to run soacers or no? It is my understanding that these have high offser and will look sunken in on the z33

 

Another thing people like me are worried about


I have extended studs. I can't know if I can run these wheels till I get a set and the lug nuts to see if they will work. Only thing stopping me

 

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecata...partnum=611294

Minor modification will be required to make them fit your extended studs. Regardless, you will probably want a 20mm spacer for the front.

 

Still doesn't work till I get the wheels and lugs nuts in my hands. I think the studs will be way too long );

 

All correct answers.

Just a little clarification....

Z34N stock wheels are always 19x9.5/19x10.5. Period. No deviation from model year to model year.

However, there are NISMO "aftermarket" wheels for Z34 (non-Nismo) that can throw one off..... LMZ5 S-Tune wheels. These are spec'd 19x9, 19x10.

And, don't forget that Z33 Nismo wheels are spec'd 18x9, 19x10 and people selling these on EBay never make the distinction that these are for 350Z, NOT 370Z.

On fitting any of Z34N wheels to a Z33: front wheels are +40mm and will NEED 20mm spacer to work right (can be mounted without spacers and clear brakes and suspension but scrub radius and turn in will be totally funked up and steer like a boat); rears will be fine at 23mm.

Mic

EDIT: Didn't even mention any of the Z33 specific LMGT 2/3/4 (Nismo aftermarket) series wheels in at least half a dozen or more configurations, the most "common" being 8.5/9.5 in medium offset (less than OEM +30mm).

 

Very nice summation, Mic!

 

So I should be fine with the front cause the spacers will help with the extended studs. Rear will probably be my problem

 

Well, maybe.... 15mm+ spacers are bolt-on by necessity. Given that, there is a requirement for any wheels used to have recesses in the hub/spoke areas to accommodate the original studs/lugs sticking out of the spacer. Good news is that most good aftermarket wheels (and most OEM - standard or Rays) have the needed recesses.

Of course, YMMV, dependant upon your particular lug setup.

If it's still an issue in the rear, you should still have room to run spacers.... A 10mm slip on might be perfect with your ext studs. Most likely need to do some calculations between stock and lengthened configs to make sure.

Mic

 

They are super long lol. I don't think I have hope of running these. I'd not run bolt on spacers cause of the studs. If anything I'd put the slip on spacers in the front. Once I get the car back I want to try and get some of these for my street set up

 

Thanks for the information gonna go check them out this wed one thing worrying me is information on how powder coating will weakens the rims

 

Powder coating won't weaken wheels. Nothing in the process has the ability to affect them metallurgically.... It's merely the application of a charge to the piece to be coated and applying the coating with opposite charge.

 

If an inexperienced powder coater does them and lets them bake too long the heat can weaken the strength of the wheel.

 

Yeah it's not the charge that hurts them. It's the baking

 

Wellll, if a powder coating shop is going to cook your wheels for the 9-10 hours required to effect any real change to the tensile strength of the alloy in your wheels, yes, you took it to the wrong place. Oh, and you'll know about it for sure as the coating will have flaked off well long before the wheel deforms or loses any structural integrity.

But none of that is even likely to occur as the shop would need kiln like temps to do that. Keep in mind that aluminum alloys won't change their internal structures until close to melting point, in this case, somewhere North of 1,000 degF.

Mic

 

Mic knows some stuff. Now I don't feel worried PC wheels!


How about cast wheels like Enkei?

 

Thanks for the compliment but this was just something I remembered from my chem classes AND something I had double checked years ago with my best friend who is/was a practicing chemist who holds a PhD in same. This was about the time when the old wives tale about compromising structural integrity of wheels from powder coating first came about. He confirmed it saying that you could leave a good alloy wheel in an oven at 400 for a week and it wouldn't change the structural properties of same. Didn't advise doing so of course but....

Again, the powder coating itself would be destroyed before anything happened to the wheel itself.

As far as cast wheels such as Enkei, well, Enkei rises to the top of the cast class using a technology they call MAT and MAP (Most Advanced Technology and Most Advanced Production, respectively). MAT is the key component of MAP.

It's a hybrid of high pressure casting (the highest form of casting wheels) and Spun Rim Flow casting wherein the wheel mold is spun and heated during the casting process, creating a very high density form (wheel).

This process isn't quite forging as true forging uses extreme high pressure to force billet into the mold BUT, it's very close from a strength:weight ratio standpoint. (That is, light weight with very high strength.) IIRC, OZ also uses a similar technology for their wheels but not many others do due to the relative high cost to manufacture in this manner.

Enkei wheels are manufactured to a self imposed "standard" called "Spec-E" that is actually higher than JWL, NHTSA 110, and most other world standards.

Most of the wheels coming out of the wheel "manufacturers" in China with price points sub-$1000 do NOT use this type of technology and should be avoided IF you are planning high stress activities, e.g., racing, rally, etc. "Probably" fine for street use, look pretty good, and they meet a market price point but.... caveat emptor. Yes, they typically meet standards but honestly, those standards are pretty old and not that difficult to meet.

Not trying to start a flame war here, just stating economic versus engineering fact.

Bottom line: I would NOT hesitate using Enkei wheels for performance use (at least those manufactured using the MAT process.... not positive which Enkei wheel line that starts at.... pretty sure it's the "Tuning" level (and up through "Performance" and "Racing" lines.) Check first. All of my wheels are forged but that's just because I'm a nit about such things. I always try to build out to the least amount of potential points of failure.

Mic

 

Makes me feel safer now! Sorry for thread jacking OP but mic knows a lot lol


Yeah the lower end Enkei that say American tire use are cheap China cast. Don't quite me on it but the higher end stuff does actually still come from Japan and if I'm guessing right the Japanese wheels are the ones using the MAT process.