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Hello all! I recently purchased a 2003 Z which is on a set of atrocious 20's. I can't take it so the first purchase will be a set of wheels and tires. I have in mind a set of Cosmis Racing S1's. The fronts would be 18x9.5 et 15 and the rears are 18x10.5 et 5. The tires I would like to run are Dunlop Direzza DZ102's in 245/40r18 and 275/40r18 respectively. I would like to lower the car to get a nice flush fitment, but nothing crazy. Just so the fender sits just above the wheel, preferably less than a fingers gap. I do own a fender roller, so I know I would have to roll the fenders, at least in the rear to get the aggressive +5 offset to fit.
My question is, do you think that, with a mild roll, this wheel/tire combination would fit okay with the car lowered a bit? How much camber do you think it would need?
Thank you, sorry for a noob question. I'm happy to finally own one of my dream cars since I was little. Thanks again
I saw this picture floating around, but the page it was on didn't mention tire sizing. This is the exact ride height i'm going for. Any guesses on wheel size? Think he's rolled?
I've run every thing from 8.5s to 11s on the rear with conservative offsets (at that point most "aggressive" offset was a 10.5 +19). Didn't need a roll until I put on a set of 9.5 +15 RPF1s. Would give even odds that a +5 will REQUIRE a roll.
These are my favorite fit of the 15 or so sets: 9.5/10.5 +22 F&R with 255/35 & 285/35-19 combination. (Never mind the wheel diameter, same foot print in 255/40 and 285/40-18.)
Lowered 19mm, last set at low end of alignment range ~ -2.0degs R (-1.2 degs F)
Sure you know this but camber is non-adjustable w/o camber alignment hardware. (Next to sway bars, best stuff for the $$ because alignment is K-I-N-G! )
I actually was unaware that camber was nonadjustable. I thought it had some adjustment, but to get the most you needed camber arms. I personally don't mind the natural camber that comes from lowering the car, as long as I can adjust the toe. I may get toe arms if I see the spring bucket can't do the job, as i'm getting a true coilover setup.
I also may opt for a smaller profile tires to help get it to fit easier.
I found this just now, https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wh...s1-stock-stock, and it gives me hope. I think that with a roll and not going excessively low, the natural negative camber given by lowering the suspension geometry would be enough for the rears to clear. How much would the +5 poke out? Im not lookin for hella stance or hotboi low, but a little poke never hurt
I actually was unaware that camber was nonadjustable. I thought it had some adjustment, but to get the most you needed camber arms. I personally don't mind the natural camber that comes from lowering the car, as long as I can adjust the toe. I may get toe arms if I see the spring bucket can't do the job, as i'm getting a true coilover setup.
I also may opt for a smaller profile tires to help get it to fit easier.
I found this just now, https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wh...s1-stock-stock, and it gives me hope. I think that with a roll and not going excessively low, the natural negative camber given by lowering the suspension geometry would be enough for the rears to clear. How much would the +5 poke out? Im not lookin for hella stance or hotboi low, but a little poke never hurt
Interesting way to look at it. Lowering about an inch will likely put you at about -2 degs and toe IS adjustable but....
I would NOT use tire size as the way to FIT them. Never never never do this.
Don't know what version (Touring, base, etc) your car is but altering the front to rear rolling diameter stagger outside of the 3% threshold (rear tires need to be roughly 3% higher than the fronts) can negatively affect VDC and to some degree, TCS. The car's ECM is expecting wheel speeds in this ratio. If you deviate too far under or over this threshold, the ECM will read this as wheel spin and kick in VDC making your normally spirited car most snail like when the engine goes into semi-limp mode to overcome the "perceived wheel spin".
If you don't have VDC, then not a big deal but then there's the minor issue of shorter tires = more wheel gap, even when lowered.
Bottom line, best to fit the proper offset wheels and tires. Period.
Okay yeah, I hadn't even though about it that way. Man so much different than my NA Miata.
I think im going to stick with these wheels, and the original tire sizes I was thinking. I think with about an inch lowered, the little negative camber, and adjusting the toe back to spec, I could get the wheel combo to fit and look decent. With the fenders rolled, of course.
Also, I'm not sure what trim level I have. Definitely not base. I have butt warmers, leather seats, cruise control, and VDC, but no brembos.
yeah but they are crap... once you can afford it, get a quaife
i don’t plan on tracking the car or anything, so it’s not 100% necessary for me haha. Just gonna be a pretty girl who i drive in a fun way and sometimes get rowdy in the rain
yeah but they are crap... once you can afford it, get a quaife
Originally Posted by Gyro
i don’t plan on tracking the car or anything, so it’s not 100% necessary for me haha. Just gonna be a pretty girl who i drive in a fun way and sometimes get rowdy in the rain
While most any gear driven LSDs (Quaife, Wave, Torsen) are going to be superior in situations requiring near-full locking, I have never found the viscous unit in the 33 to be a problem - albeit not on track; which I'm sure would be FAR superior - and it has never failed to get me and my car out of trouble; even on the tightest and fastest curves in the hills (think off-camber where the wheel speed differential (slip) is impacted not only through available traction in the horizontal plane on the road surface; but vertical weight loading (actually unloading on the inside wheel) plays into the scenario.)
Granted, some of that comes from the driver; but even for the novice driver, having the OE VLSD is better than an open unit for when things start to get ugly. I think there have only been a couple of times where I'll get to the pull out, get out of the car and say, "Hmmmm, sure would be nice to have real gears back there." Laff....
For 80% of the drivers out there and most road situations, the VLSD works just fine.
I liked how predictable the car was after the diff install....not to mention i got a deal i couldnt pass up.
dont ask, you would be jealous
Already know the story about your buddy’s trade-in. 👍
Not jealous.... I want one, I’ll go buy one. But don’t feel a need for my 33. Tell ya though, the S30 is a whole new beast with the gears and mech LSD. 😁
So, I decided to get the wheels and the tire setup will be 245/40 up front, and 265/40 in the rear. I think with that I should be able to clear some rolled fenders on a mild drop
03-05-2018, 09:12 PM
A new Z owner with wheel fitment question
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