Has anyone installed all the same size tires and rims on their car?

I have been thinking about doing this to get more miles on my tires. I want to rotate them front to rear on the same sides.

If you did, could you share with me what size tires and rims you used?

 

the only problem will be the offestz.
i am looking at 18/9.5/265 +22 all around.
i dont think it will have any problem.
any one can confirm this?

 

No problem at all, maybe even ideal from a handling perspective. You will dial out some understeer and make the car more balanced.

Offsets will matter, it just means the rear wheels will sit further in than they would with a stagered setup. So, you want to find a happy medium. If you don't mind the small rear lip that many like you should be good. If you go with a 8.5" wheel, I would go around a +22-25 offset to keep the rear wheel pushed out as much as possible.

Look at last months SportCompactCar, they have an article that they ran the same size tire front and rear. They did run a +30 front on a 8.5, and a +25 rear on 8.5 IIRC for more lip.

Oh, on the 9.5 with +22 offset, the front wheel will extend a little too far for my taste, but many have done it, and you may have to roll the fender, especially if you are lowered.

 

Thanks jran76!

I went to Sport Compact Car's website and they had an article on their site that answered several questions.

I really appreciate the info!

 

i got the amuse bodykit with the amuse wide fender.
so i dont think i'll have to roll the fender?

 

o, and will the gap between the tires and fenders become bigger?
if i use 265/35/18 setup?i am not going to change my suspension immidiatly, so might stick with stock with this setup for a while.
any comments will be appreciate
]

 

As for the fender roll there is a good chance you would not have to anyway, many don't have to (that is a common Volk size).

As for the gap, the new size is smaller than stock, so you would have more gap and sit a little lower. I based that off a 225/50/17 (front stock enthusiast tires). Here is a link to a good site for tire size comparo.... Plug in stock size and plug in the new size, and it will show the difference.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Here is another good tire/wheel link....
http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html

 

i am confused here, so ur saying with offsetz 22 on the front, my front wheel will push out more?
and i just can't visualize how big is the gap between the wheel and fender gonna grow~!do u have any idea?
thanks

 

One thing to keep in mind is that the VDC/TCS system is calibrated for the slight difference in front/rear overall diameter that the stock tires provide.

Now, I use 265/35-18 race tires all around, and have never had a VDC issue on the way to an event (probably 700 miles total by now), but some people have reported problems with similar setups.

The gap is a bit bigger (also, my race wheel offsets are 35mm, which pushes the wheels in a bit as well, compounding the gap issue). I just pulled the race tires off though, so I can't get a pic. I don't think it looks that bad, but I do see the difference.

In order to help balance the car (but not solve the rotation problem) I went with 245/40 in front and 245/45 in back for my street tires on the stock wheels.

-D'oh!

 

how big approximately will u say the gap is?
thanks

 

The only thing I can say is there are quite a few people that run a 9.5 with +22, you should be able to find some pics that show the fronts, if you are running the amuse fenders I would not worry about it.

My personal taste is no lower offset than a +22 in the front on a 8.5, so a 9.5 wheel would stick out slightly further (you can use the offset calculator above to see exactly how far). Again that is my personal taste, many have run the setup you mentioned and had no problems, I have seen it myself and it looks good.

 

my sig

 

do u happened to have a pic of the gap between the wheel and fender?
has ur car been lowered?
if i do have the pics, can u send it to my email?
my email is itseng@sfu.ca
thanks.

 

alrite, thanks for ur help all alone.
appreciate ur help.!

 

I've actually thought about the idea of running the same wheels (i.e. same offset and all) front and rear - would just require the use of a spacer in the rear to push them out a bit right? I have no idea how the handling would be affected, or whether it would be worth a dang, except for being able to rotate the tires on the thing

 

I have investigated doing the same thing, but with 30 offset (Nismo rears all around). I have a track model with stock (18x8.5 33 offset) rear wheels and 265/40-18 rear tires (BFG KDs). Trial fitting the rears in front, there is still quite a bit of clearance for the 9.5 wide rims and increased tire section width as a result of the wider rims. To simulate getting wider to 9.5 on the outside, I temporarily used an 8mm wheel spacer. Tire clearances were really starting to get close, and for me I would consider the limit. I'd like to see if I can make 275/40's fit up front with the 9.5s, but that may require an adjustable upper a-arm to make the outside tuck under. I'd be very skeptical about trying 22 offset with 9.5s with a 265 tire based on what I see, and would probably require adjustable upper a-arms with a lot more negative camber to make it work. But if someone else has suceeded with the same combination, make sure you know all the facts about what they've done. Good Luck!

 

m..everybody seems like to have different openion here.
does anybody actually did run a set up like 265/35/18 with offsetz 22all around?

 

OK, let's try this again, Sport Compact Car did an article on this, running a 275/40 tire with a 30mm offset on 18x9.5 wheels in the front. This is the Nismo rear 30mm offset wheel front and rear.

Here is the article, I would recommend reading it to all....
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr.../0404scc_350z/

Here is what they say (this is an exact quote):

You can measure and calculate all you want, but the only way to really be sure what size tire and what wheel offset you need to completely fill a wheel well is trial and error. We found, conveniently, that the rear tires Nismo uses on the Z--275/40ZR-18 BFGoodrich g-Force KDs mounted on 18x9.5-inch wheels with a 30mm offset--actually fit the front perfectly.

BTW, they pulled over 1G on the skidpad with this setup, sway bars (Eibach) and a new LSD. No drop at all, stock springs and shocks. They also say they slightly rub, with a 22mm offset you are pushing the tire further away from the lower control arm, so you should not rub with a 22mm offset.

I hope this clears things up.

Here is a pic:

 

jran76:

Thank you again for your patience and willing to share information with us

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Er Jran76:

I know you ment well to say the Eibach sways went 1G on the
skid pad, But my Proto-Type test buddy - Said No Way Jose.. !

I Think you meant an other bar bender..

Text from link - you indicated above. Hacked - a lot.. Just didn't want you to recomend the - no adjusted set.

Project 350Z Part 2: Balance
By Dave Coleman
Photography: Josh Jacquot, Dave Coleman

Project 350Z has just become our second project car in a year to reach the once
fanciful goal of 1.0g on street tires. Like making 100 hp per liter on pump gas
, pulling a street g is slowly working its way from theoretical fantasy to
everyday reality. Doing this with a Z turns out to be relatively simple in
terms of raw parts count. We changed only four parts to bring the Z from 0.88g
to 1.0, and only three of them were probably strictly necessary. The only real
trick was to ignore what everyone else was doing with the Z and look at the
car's strengths and weaknesses on their own.

Sponsored Links

one else is lowering the Z, throwing multi-adjustable coil-overs at it as we
are wont to do on nearly every car we touch. But the Z is already low. It's so low,
in fact, that Nissan had to modify the loading ramps it has been using on its
ships for 30 years. The stock springs and shocks are also tuned quite well,
so we're in no hurry to change them.
We've driven several Zs that were done this way. Some of them worked brilliantly,
but none rode as well or managed to feel as balanced and easy to drive as
ours does. And none of the good ones did it on real street tires.

Stumbling into our setup meant stepping back and taking a fresh look at the Z.

A neutral, rear-drive car should be easily balanced mid-corner with the throttle.
Lift off the gas and the tail should step out slightly. Ease onto the gas and the
front tires should slowly start to slide. In a properly balanced car,
the transition to oversteer is so gradual and predictable you can hang the car
right on that transition point as long as you want. The Sport Package Miata,
the third-generation RX-7, and, surprisingly, the current Mustang Cobra all
exhibit this outstanding balance.

With powerslides on demand, it's easy to be fooled into calling the 350Z's
handling neutral. It isn't. Unless you're spinning the rear tires,
it's difficult to get anything but the fronts to do any work.
Smooth driving is almost always rewarded with understeer,
and if you can coax the rear out at high speed, it usually goes with a snap.
Driving a Z at 7/10 is rewarding and, frankly, too fast for most roads.
But on that rare road where you have the visibility, the flow and the sparse
traffic to really flog it, a stock Z can be frustrating.
Throttle inputs have minimal effect on the car's attitude and the front tires
take all the punishment. Many a twisty road attack has ended with us wishing
for that elusive neutral balance.

Here's how we found it: Look closely at the 350Z's suspension and there's
only one obvious reason why it shouldn't be balanced--the front tires are
smaller than the rears. This may seem a laughably naive question, but why?
Two reasons: It looks tough and it makes the lawyers happy.

Screw the lawyers.

Nissan engineers left an insane amount of room for wide tires and, naturally,
there's more room in the back than up front.
This has led most people to continue this ludicrous staggered tire setup
by trying to stuff the rear wheel wells with as much tire as possible.
We went the opposite way, stuffing as much tire as possible under the front
fenders and then using that size at both ends.

You can measure and calculate all you want, but the only way to really
be sure what size tire and what wheel offset you need to completely fill
a wheel well is trial and error. We found, conveniently,
that the rear tires Nismo uses on the Z--275/40ZR-18 BFGoodrich g-Force KDs
mounted on 18x9.5-inch wheels with a 30mm offset--actually fit the front perfectly.


nowing exactly what you want is the worst curse for a wheel shopper.

With our Z stuffed full of tires, we next wanted some way to adjust handling
balance. When you're aiming for that delicate edge just before the car gets nasty
and tail happy, you need some quick, easy way to adjust balance. Adjustable
anti-roll bars are almost always the best way to do this. The function of
anti-roll bars is quite simple. They just connect the left and right wheels
with a torsion bar. When one wheel goes up and the other goes down--which is
what happens when the body rolls--the bar twists. A bigger bar will resist the
twisting more, so the car will roll less. Big deal.

Now here's the magic: Put a larger bar on the rear and the bar will push down
harder on the outside rear tire as it resists roll. This extra load will cause
the rear tire to lose grip sooner, so a bigger rear bar promotes oversteer.
Put the big bar in front and you get more understeer. Now, with front and rear
bars sized to get really close to neutral, you can fine-tune the stiffness of
each bar by changing how long the lever arm is between the suspension and the
bar. That's accomplished by simply drilling a few extra mounting holes in the
end of the bar so the end link that connects the bar to the suspension can
mount in a few different positions.

Anti-roll bars are relatively simple things. All that really matters is that
they're the right stiffness, the end links and all the mounting points are
strong enough to handle the extra forces from the stronger bars, and that the
ends of the bars sit at the same height so the bar doesn't push to one side on
level ground. The Hotchkis adjustable anti-roll bars we installed nail all
three of those criteria, plus some more.

Being the right stiffness comes from the combination of John Hotchkis' driving
talent and stubborn perfectionism. He knows what right is, and he's not happy
until he's there. Strong mounting points are easy in the case of the Z. The
stock mounts are plenty strong and the stock ball-joint-style end links handle
the extra load without complaint. In cases where the stock pieces aren't up to
the task, Hotchkis Tuning has its own, stronger ball-joint links. As for the bar
sitting level, all Hotchkis bars are built with a fancy-pants CNC bending machine,
so they're always the right shape.

For a bonus, the Hotchkis bars are also hollow. It turns out that if you drill
the middle out of a torsion bar you don't lose much in the way of stiffness,
but you do lose a lot of weight. The massive 35mm (1 3/8-in.) Hotchkis front
bar weighs just over 13 pounds. In its three positions, the front bar is 9-, 32-,
or 63-percent stiffer than stock. The 24mm (15/16-in.) hollow rear bar is either
45-, 92-, or 146-percent stiffer than stock. Amazingly, we
found perfect balance with both bars in their middle setting.

The final bonus feature, of course, is that they're red. Everybody knows that
red is the fastest color.

Turn-in is crisp and immediate, the steering is precise and predictable, and the
limit is approachable, controllable and perfectly neutral. With the front and rear
bars set on their middle settings, our Z snakes through the slalom at 71.8 mph.
That's 1 mph faster than a stock track-package Z and 1.6 mph faster than our Z
was stock. Several of the more understeer-biased modified Zs we've tested are
faster through the slalom, since the slalom test tends to favor understeer.

Balance on the skidpad, though was superb, with a two-way average of an even 1.0g.

Tire Pressure 34 psi cold 34 psi cold
Anti-roll Bar Hotchkis 35 mm Hotchkis 24 mm
Bar Setting Middle setting Middle setting
Differential KAAZ adjusted to 30-percent locking with KAAZfluid and RedLine
differential additive

The Z's front bar is simple and easy to install. Its massive size (35mm) is
somewhat misleading, since it's hollow.



We found the handling balance to be perfect with both the front and rear
(pictured) bars in their middle settings. Installing the rear bar is only slightly
more complicated than the front, with a little exhaust dodging necessary.




Sources :

-----------------------------------------------
Hotchkis Tuning Sport Sway Bars
(562) 907-7757
www.hotchkistuning.com
----------------------------------------------
Cheers Amy -

Hotchkis SWAY bars are not sold under the name:
Eibach's