toothlessracer

thanks
It's pouring here in LA if it stops i'll rewire for a 2ohm load. The garage is full of stuff since I'm remodeling.

toothlessracer

jreiter

how did i miss that, your right, the reading on the remote wire is in milivolts. I re-cheked the remote wire on the Z same thing 2.1 milivolts (set up the volmeter on manual instead of auto this time)

Also did a resistance check on the power wire. It's not grounding out.

Rewired the subs to a 2 Ohm load vs 1 Ohm load I had previously. I also turned down the gain on all 5 channels to about 3/4 on Front, 1/2 on Rear, and 3/4 on Subs, they were all @ max before.
i haven't had time to check to see if this has fixed the problem of shutting down. Kinda late here since one of my neightbors is retired the other one is a cop, dont want trouble with either.

After doing these test I tried to start the car and it wouldn't, since i havent driven the car in the past 3 days.

According to the voltage gauge in the car it had about 11V did a voltage reading @ the battery and got 11.56V. What gives I've had cars start on 10V in the past.

I think the issue lies with the battery not having enought Cold Cranking Amps and reserve power. this might explain the amp cutting out at high volume. Still doesn't explain the drain on the power supply. Tomorrow I'll to see if I can get to the HU and EQ and see if one of those is grounding out.

toothlessracer

does any one have instructions on how to disassemble the dash or how to get access to the stereo wiring.
either post pics, write the process or a PDF file on line or something.

thanks

jreiter

iTrader: (6)

Nah, auto is my preferred setting since I never have to worry about it. Just keep an eye on that decimal point.



Good deal. If you're sure that the power isn't grounded, then the amp is looking more and more like the culprit.



How did you wire a 2 ohm DVC sub to do 2 ohms? You can only get 1 or 4 ohms out of that normally. Do you have multiple subs?

Also, the gain settings probably won't cause the amp to shut down, but holy moly, having them up too far can make your sound quality suffer greatly. Your input gains on the amp basically need to be set to match the output voltage of your headunit. If your input gains on your amp are too high, then you'll get signal clipping and that just sounds aweful. Some amps don't have input protection circuitry, either, so you can actually fry the input circuits in the amp if you pump too high of an input signal voltage into them without turning down the input gains to match. These head units with 8 volt outputs, for example, can be very dangerous if you don't turn down the gains on the amp to compensate.


I really don't feel that your battery is to blame at this point. It is possible that you've drained it dead too many times and it's now ruined, but I wouldn't call it dead just yet. I've run some fairly high power systems in my time (much higher than your system here) with normal batteries and stock alternators and I've never had problems. Keep in mind that when your car is running, you are pulling power from the alternator, not the battery. You are only using the battery when the car is off.

And battery voltage measurements can be misleading. It is entirely possible to have a battery show 10v or 11v and yet still have almost no juice left in it. Once you apply a load to that battery, though, it promptly dies out. You see, a voltmeter pulls almost no load from the battery, so even an almost-dead battery can show voltage just fine on a voltmeter. The only way to truly test a battery is with some sort of load-generating testing device.

toothlessracer

jreiter,

I srated with 1 now I have 2 10" R Alpine Subs.

Here's the deal I wired the amp from the Eclipse in to the Z, left setting exactly as they were in the the Eclipse. I ran the system for about an 1 with no issues. So i figure it's the wiring. But then I though about it, the amp on the Eclipse is only 200W RMS, while the one in the Z I think it's 400W RMS, 850W max. So I wired the amp from the MB it's the same model as the one in the Z. About 10 minutes of playing music samething happened. Sound stopped, circuit protection light came on, five secs latter it turned off and about 2 secs latter I got sound back.

I called this shop who's done intalls for me and some friends. We've never had any problems with the installs he's done. The first install I got from this guy is the one in the Eclipse 7 years ago. I told the guy what's going on and he believes it's the battery and a short somewhere on the sound but he ruled out the amp having a short.

He's doing a show today Sat so I cant take it in. Depending how bad traffic is durring the week I might take it in if not I'll have to wait until next Sat. His shop is about 15 miles away but with traffic it's about an 1hr drive.

He did mention he's going to do a load test, then check the wiring.

SmokyTyrz

PS: I'd get a new battery regardless...ONCE EVERYTHING ELSE IS FIXED. Cuz all of work and testing has probably put a major load on the cells. If you've had the battery for over a year then plan on getting a new one soon, otherwise you may get stranded somewhere. Just to be safe, ya know?

-Smoky

clkwrkorg36

mrvf450 doesn't work at the load your trying to run. try running just one sub to get a 4 ohm load, if this keeps it from cutting off you've found your problem.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

what gauge power wire are you running...

fact that your battery is being drained means something is using up your battery which is likely a short somewhere... did they drill through the firewall? is so, did they put a grommet and is the insulation intact... some shops don't even know there's an existing hole in the firewall.

it could also be a bad alternator, but I doubt that... a cap won't solve the problem just delay the onset of the problem...

strange though that your remote lead has power with the car off... did they run it off the aftermarket HU harness?

could be the amp never shuts down, would explain the drain, but not the amp cutting out... not really sure how much voltage it takes to switch on an amp

also check all contacts in the wiring... loose grommets/screws can mean bad power transfer

lex350

iTrader: (16)

You dumb a$$ noob, the post was 2 years old. lol