Stopping rear view mirror rattles

StreetOC192 · 01-18-2008, 05:30 AM

If you have an aftermarket audio system, them you most likely know that the homelink mirror rattles. It took me a bit of trial and error, but I have found 2 problem spots, maybe 3 that I will address here.

1st is the wire cover. I found that it not only vibrates against the glass, but also the 2 pieces vibrate where they overlap. My fix was 2 balls of damping that I pulled off of the foil backing and used it as almost a glue to hold the 2 overlapping areas tight.

StreetOC192 · 01-18-2008, 05:32 AM

Then I realized that wasn't the only problem, there was also a rattle IN the mirror. So I had to crack the mirror open. After cracking it open 3 times, I got it completely rattle free. I am passing this knowledge on to you so you only need to open it up once.

First you need to remove the mirror from the windshield
You will need a T20 torx driver to remove the set screw.

Then you need to unplug the wire harness

StreetOC192 · 01-18-2008, 05:44 AM

Now to crack the mirror open, you need patience and a very slim flat head screwdriver or putty knife. I found working on the top if the mirror is best because you most likely will scar the plastic a little bit so on the top is not visible once the mirror is reinstalled.

Work the screwdriver or putty knife along the entire length of the top seam, you will see by this pic that there are 4 'clips' to unlatch.

Be very patient and keep working around the entire mirror and eventually you will have it all unclipped and you can remove the front bezel, mirror, and circuit board from the rear housing.

Here is the rear housing (with a little damping in it from my first attempt to hush the rattles - failed) you do NOT need to damp this housing, it is NOT a cause of the rattles.

Here is the back side of the front bezel with mirror and circuit board

The mirror and circuit board come out of the front bezel. The first step is the keep the mirror from rattling in the bezel by putting in thin strips of damping sheets around the perimeter of the bezel. This will hod the mirror tight inside the bezel. (I can't pull mine out easily since I put damping around the perimeter of the bezel). Here you can see a little of the strips in the top left edge of the bezel:

Then, I used a pen knife to 'fillet' some damping material off of the foil backing (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CUT YOURSELF!). and make 5 little balls like this:

and then push these little balls onto the backs of the buttons on the bezel as shown here:

Carefully reinstall the mirror and circuit board back into the bezel and reassemble the housing:

Then press the buttons a few times each to 'set' the damping. Reinstall the mirror in the car and enjoy a rattle free mirror when your subwoofer hits those low notes.

** I hold no responsibility if you cut yourself, damage the mirror, or anything else in this process.

russ713 · 01-19-2008, 07:22 AM

*sigh* This is something I'll have to do.

Sean · 01-19-2008, 12:18 PM

I think we could just delete the mirror for all the view the rear window gives us.

StreetOC192 · 01-20-2008, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sean1967

I think we could just delete the mirror for all the view the rear window gives us.

That's a better idea. Problem solved in 30 seconds

playa6tnine · 01-21-2008, 09:13 AM

StreetOC192

i'm the OP from the original thread that asked this question. i did this fix this weekend, worked out great! no more rattling, i'm not used to it!!!

anyway, i did two things different:

i know you say to start cracking it open from the top to prevent visible scarring of the plastic, but even with the slimmest flat-head screwdriver i had, it was a pain in the ass. I started from the bottom, and it became uclipped instantly. then i worked around the edges with little effort and the rest came out.

also, istead of dynamat balls, i just used black silicone. it was a lot easier to use and play with.

but yeah dude, couldnt have done it with out your instructions. thanks man!!

StreetOC192 · 01-22-2008, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by playa6tnine

StreetOC192

i'm the OP from the original thread that asked this question. i did this fix this weekend, worked out great! no more rattling, i'm not used to it!!!

anyway, i did two things different:

i know you say to start cracking it open from the top to prevent visible scarring of the plastic, but even with the slimmest flat-head screwdriver i had, it was a pain in the ass. I started from the bottom, and it became uclipped instantly. then i worked around the edges with little effort and the rest came out.

also, istead of dynamat balls, i just used black silicone. it was a lot easier to use and play with.

but yeah dude, couldnt have done it with out your instructions. thanks man!!

Very glad it worked out and that's good info that you provided. I didn't have silicon, but im sure it worked out great!!! Glad i could help out, even if just a little bit.

ReV74 · 01-31-2008, 12:49 PM

nice write up man! I was going crazy looking for the rattle haha

phreaktor · 03-19-2008, 11:21 AM

Awesome! I've been curious to see what the circuitry in the mirror looked like to make it cost over $800.00... Through-hole components ftl... Very sloppy and space wasting engineering in there.

Thanks a lot though- I can't wait to do mine.

WhiteNoiz · 03-27-2008, 11:07 AM

Nice write up! I may have to do this. I always have to grab my mirror when its rattleing, I give it a slight squeez and it stops rattling (temporarily). I dont have a system yet though *boom ba boom* hopefully soon.

SlowZster · 05-04-2008, 04:12 PM

ok, good write-up, but how do you make it so when your base hits, your mirror doesn't point directly down at the ground? Do I have to glue it in one place? or is there just something that I can tighten? My base hits pretty darn hard...

Darkest · 09-09-2008, 09:01 PM

Nice write up man! You can apply some electrical tape to the top of the screwdriver to avoid scratching! Just my 2 cents

citymunky · 09-11-2008, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean

I think we could just delete the mirror for all the view the rear window gives us.

I have a good view in my G.

And to the OP, thanks for this info, I was going to try to dynomat by the end of this month.

citymunky · 09-11-2008, 06:46 PM

Well I just ripe open my mirror, and I used the thick double sided tape for perimeter of the bezel , and silicone on the backs of the buttons. I'll see how it works out tomorrow, on my way to work.

blackz123 · 09-12-2008, 01:22 AM

yea let us know

citymunky · 09-12-2008, 04:04 PM

Well the mirror still vibrates, but I have no more rattles.

Konvict · 09-14-2008, 03:28 PM

mine rattles....i just dont care lol

al@phatrides · 09-16-2008, 06:42 AM

good write up. This is definitely on my TO DO SOON list!

JasonZ-YA · 09-16-2008, 06:52 AM

So thats what the F'n noise is!!!!

01-18-2008, 05:30 AM	#1
StreetOC192 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NJ Posts: 1,883 iTrader: (7)	Stopping rear view mirror rattles If you have an aftermarket audio system, them you most likely know that the homelink mirror rattles. It took me a bit of trial and error, but I have found 2 problem spots, maybe 3 that I will address here. 1st is the wire cover. I found that it not only vibrates against the glass, but also the 2 pieces vibrate where they overlap. My fix was 2 balls of damping that I pulled off of the foil backing and used it as almost a glue to hold the 2 overlapping areas tight. __________________ All human actions have one or more of these seven causes: chance, nature, compulsion, habit, reason, passion, and desire -Aristotle(384BC-322BC)

01-18-2008, 05:32 AM	#2
StreetOC192 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NJ Posts: 1,883 iTrader: (7)	Then I realized that wasn't the only problem, there was also a rattle IN the mirror. So I had to crack the mirror open. After cracking it open 3 times, I got it completely rattle free. I am passing this knowledge on to you so you only need to open it up once. First you need to remove the mirror from the windshield You will need a T20 torx driver to remove the set screw. Then you need to unplug the wire harness __________________ All human actions have one or more of these seven causes: chance, nature, compulsion, habit, reason, passion, and desire -Aristotle(384BC-322BC)

01-18-2008, 05:44 AM	#3
StreetOC192 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NJ Posts: 1,883 iTrader: (7)	Now to crack the mirror open, you need patience and a very slim flat head screwdriver or putty knife. I found working on the top if the mirror is best because you most likely will scar the plastic a little bit so on the top is not visible once the mirror is reinstalled. Work the screwdriver or putty knife along the entire length of the top seam, you will see by this pic that there are 4 'clips' to unlatch. Be very patient and keep working around the entire mirror and eventually you will have it all unclipped and you can remove the front bezel, mirror, and circuit board from the rear housing. Here is the rear housing (with a little damping in it from my first attempt to hush the rattles - failed) you do NOT need to damp this housing, it is NOT a cause of the rattles. Here is the back side of the front bezel with mirror and circuit board The mirror and circuit board come out of the front bezel. The first step is the keep the mirror from rattling in the bezel by putting in thin strips of damping sheets around the perimeter of the bezel. This will hod the mirror tight inside the bezel. (I can't pull mine out easily since I put damping around the perimeter of the bezel). Here you can see a little of the strips in the top left edge of the bezel: Then, I used a pen knife to 'fillet' some damping material off of the foil backing (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CUT YOURSELF!). and make 5 little balls like this: and then push these little balls onto the backs of the buttons on the bezel as shown here: Carefully reinstall the mirror and circuit board back into the bezel and reassemble the housing: Then press the buttons a few times each to 'set' the damping. Reinstall the mirror in the car and enjoy a rattle free mirror when your subwoofer hits those low notes. ** I hold no responsibility if you cut yourself, damage the mirror, or anything else in this process. __________________ All human actions have one or more of these seven causes: chance, nature, compulsion, habit, reason, passion, and desire -Aristotle(384BC-322BC) Last edited by StreetOC192; 01-18-2008 at 05:48 AM.

01-19-2008, 07:22 AM	#4
russ713 Die Cone, Die Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: alabama / florida Posts: 1,771 iTrader: (21)	sigh This is something I'll have to do. __________________ • 03 Z 6MT • www.myspace.com/russ713

01-31-2008, 12:49 PM	#9
ReV74 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lawndale Posts: 407 iTrader: (0)	nice write up man! I was going crazy looking for the rattle haha __________________ JcB 2004 350Z Track / Bride / JWT Popcharger

01-19-2008, 12:18 PM	#5
Sean Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: nj Posts: 8,172 iTrader: (0)	I think we could just delete the mirror for all the view the rear window gives us.

01-21-2008, 09:13 AM	#7
playa6tnine Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: orlando FL Posts: 1,043 iTrader: (4)	StreetOC192 i'm the OP from the original thread that asked this question. i did this fix this weekend, worked out great! no more rattling, i'm not used to it!!! anyway, i did two things different: i know you say to start cracking it open from the top to prevent visible scarring of the plastic, but even with the slimmest flat-head screwdriver i had, it was a pain in the ass. I started from the bottom, and it became uclipped instantly. then i worked around the edges with little effort and the rest came out. also, istead of dynamat balls, i just used black silicone. it was a lot easier to use and play with. but yeah dude, couldnt have done it with out your instructions. thanks man!!

03-19-2008, 11:21 AM	#10
phreaktor Moderator OT & Marketplace Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Burlington, NJ Posts: 10,335 iTrader: (6)	Awesome! I've been curious to see what the circuitry in the mirror looked like to make it cost over $800.00... Through-hole components ftl... Very sloppy and space wasting engineering in there. Thanks a lot though- I can't wait to do mine. __________________ Promoting win since 1977.

03-27-2008, 11:07 AM	#11
WhiteNoiz Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,260 iTrader: (0)	Nice write up! I may have to do this. I always have to grab my mirror when its rattleing, I give it a slight squeez and it stops rattling (temporarily). I dont have a system yet though boom ba boom hopefully soon.

05-04-2008, 04:12 PM	#12
SlowZster Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: seatown Posts: 2,197 iTrader: (12)	ok, good write-up, but how do you make it so when your base hits, your mirror doesn't point directly down at the ground? Do I have to glue it in one place? or is there just something that I can tighten? My base hits pretty darn hard... __________________ "BOOST" [rock chips] [bug matter] [dirt] [brake dust] [nail in tire] [scratches] [cracks] [scrapes] [key mark] [door ding] [wheel scuff] [burnt paint] [zip ties] [missing bolts] [blown rear strut] [missing fender lining] coming soon [chip in windshield]

09-09-2008, 09:01 PM	#13
Darkest Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: CA Posts: 35 iTrader: (0)	Nice write up man! You can apply some electrical tape to the top of the screwdriver to avoid scratching! Just my 2 cents

09-11-2008, 06:46 PM	#15
citymunky Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Virginia Beach, VA/The Bronx Posts: 1,290 iTrader: (16)	Well I just ripe open my mirror, and I used the thick double sided tape for perimeter of the bezel , and silicone on the backs of the buttons. I'll see how it works out tomorrow, on my way to work. __________________ '05 G Coupe 6MT>ClutchMaster FX300 Clutch>Fidanaz Liteweight Flywheel>Kinetix HFC>HKS Hi-Power>MD MREV2 & 5/16" Spacer>K&N Drop-In>Z-Tube>UR Ultra SS Pulleys>Hotchkis Sways>Stillen Front Strut Bar -> Mods Installed by citymunky Motorsports --->"I was wondering where City munky motorsports is? your sig says you have your mods installed by them and if their in the va beach area i would like to go talk to them about installing some of my stuff? thanks"<---

09-12-2008, 01:22 AM	#16
blackz123 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Orange County,California Posts: 1,292 iTrader: (8)	yea let us know __________________ Lots of mods no need to brag Support MAstergrade where quality is standard!

09-12-2008, 04:04 PM	#17
citymunky Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Virginia Beach, VA/The Bronx Posts: 1,290 iTrader: (16)	Well the mirror still vibrates, but I have no more rattles. __________________ '05 G Coupe 6MT>ClutchMaster FX300 Clutch>Fidanaz Liteweight Flywheel>Kinetix HFC>HKS Hi-Power>MD MREV2 & 5/16" Spacer>K&N Drop-In>Z-Tube>UR Ultra SS Pulleys>Hotchkis Sways>Stillen Front Strut Bar -> Mods Installed by citymunky Motorsports --->"I was wondering where City munky motorsports is? your sig says you have your mods installed by them and if their in the va beach area i would like to go talk to them about installing some of my stuff? thanks"<---

09-14-2008, 03:28 PM	#18
Konvict Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Langley BC Posts: 98 iTrader: (0)	mine rattles....i just dont care lol __________________ Z

09-16-2008, 06:52 AM	#20
JasonZ-YA Sleeps in 350Z Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio/DFW, TX Posts: 3,228 iTrader: (34)	So thats what the F'n noise is!!!! __________________ 04 PPW Touring - My favorite mod is my short Dodge Avenger antenna

09-16-2008, 06:42 AM	#19
al@phatrides Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Winnipeg, MB Posts: 28 iTrader: (0)	good write up. This is definitely on my TO DO SOON list!