The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
#161
Quamen.. I would suggest to build it all at once, rather than in stages since your setup is already installed and running. Seems more practical that way IMO. Looking forward to seeing your complete specs list for the build and how your nitrous setup works.
#164
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All personal preference really. I went with throttle cable simply because I want as few electronics as possible in my car. However I do not have traction control, which I probably wouldn't ever use anyways. Dbw is from 05+ ls2 gto's, and almost every newer ls motor. I do know that c5 corvettes came with dbw since 98. A throttle cable setup would require a custom pedal setup as well as drilling a hole though the firewall. Qwamen did my pedal and it looks amazing. Ordering my lokar cable and getting it setup within the next week
#165
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All personal preference really. I went with throttle cable simply because I want as few electronics as possible in my car. However I do not have traction control, which I probably wouldn't ever use anyways. Dbw is from 05+ ls2 gto's, and almost every newer ls motor. I do know that c5 corvettes came with dbw since 98. A throttle cable setup would require a custom pedal setup as well as drilling a hole though the firewall. Qwamen did my pedal and it looks amazing. Ordering my lokar cable and getting it setup within the next week
#168
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Royal T told me about a little module that will fix the tach problem, I don't remember what he said about it, If you could chime in Royal, would be helpful.
#170
A little more info on the SIKKY swap today. I took off the T56, 8 simple 1/2 in bolts all the same size to get the bell housing off... easy as pie.
The fitting for the SIKKY master cylinder was simple enough too, then things took a slight turn. The fitting for the bleeder line setup has to be removed with a punch to allow a ball joint to release the stock fitting. I don't have a press or theright size punch, so I had to stop there for the day.
A few small notes with this:
1. The spring and retainer that is on the end of the main trans shaft is no held on by anything, if you tug on it it will release and come right off. If your friend is looking at it when you do this, you will punch him in the face when it releases. I just missed doing this to a friend.
2. The slave section comes off easily with two 10mm bolts. Then you will need a punch and a good clamp or vice to get the set pin out and remove the stock fitting. A new set pin is most likely needed to put the new piece in place as well. A press would be the perfect tool here.
3. Secure the main trans shaft at the rear of the trans with a zip tie or something. I caught mine sliding out while we were messing with the front side.
No busted knuckles today, but no WIN either. I bought a trans table press today though... so I've got that going for me at least
The fitting for the SIKKY master cylinder was simple enough too, then things took a slight turn. The fitting for the bleeder line setup has to be removed with a punch to allow a ball joint to release the stock fitting. I don't have a press or theright size punch, so I had to stop there for the day.
A few small notes with this:
1. The spring and retainer that is on the end of the main trans shaft is no held on by anything, if you tug on it it will release and come right off. If your friend is looking at it when you do this, you will punch him in the face when it releases. I just missed doing this to a friend.
2. The slave section comes off easily with two 10mm bolts. Then you will need a punch and a good clamp or vice to get the set pin out and remove the stock fitting. A new set pin is most likely needed to put the new piece in place as well. A press would be the perfect tool here.
3. Secure the main trans shaft at the rear of the trans with a zip tie or something. I caught mine sliding out while we were messing with the front side.
No busted knuckles today, but no WIN either. I bought a trans table press today though... so I've got that going for me at least
#172
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Has anyone tried using other headers than the sikky components, any luck with brand or type? I dont really want to use the sikky components because they hang about 3/4" lower than the frame of the car. I was thinking of going with shorty headers but not sure if I have the clearance.
Thanks
Thanks
#173
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not too sure on that. i know the truck headers work when flipped forward (and having a v-band welded as snyper did)
you may as well find a local store, see if they have any ls specific headers, and seeing if they fit. if not, return them.
havok, snyper, qwamen, any of you guys- how did you wire up your speedhut tach? i got the yellow going to the tach wire, now the white wire says dash lighting, and i cant find any dash lighting info on the web lol.
google y u no work
you may as well find a local store, see if they have any ls specific headers, and seeing if they fit. if not, return them.
havok, snyper, qwamen, any of you guys- how did you wire up your speedhut tach? i got the yellow going to the tach wire, now the white wire says dash lighting, and i cant find any dash lighting info on the web lol.
google y u no work
#176
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not too sure on that. i know the truck headers work when flipped forward (and having a v-band welded as snyper did)
you may as well find a local store, see if they have any ls specific headers, and seeing if they fit. if not, return them.
havok, snyper, qwamen, any of you guys- how did you wire up your speedhut tach? i got the yellow going to the tach wire, now the white wire says dash lighting, and i cant find any dash lighting info on the web lol.
google y u no work
you may as well find a local store, see if they have any ls specific headers, and seeing if they fit. if not, return them.
havok, snyper, qwamen, any of you guys- how did you wire up your speedhut tach? i got the yellow going to the tach wire, now the white wire says dash lighting, and i cant find any dash lighting info on the web lol.
google y u no work