Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Quamen.. I would suggest to build it all at once, rather than in stages since your setup is already installed and running. Seems more practical that way IMO. Looking forward to seeing your complete specs list for the build and how your nitrous setup works.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

#1 rod bearing went. Appears as though it was an improperly clearanced bearing by the engine builder I got it from. Crank is junk so the bottom end is a must.

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Gas petal question... best to go with the gm drive by wire or go with a throttle cable? What engines come with drive by wire? LS2's?

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

All personal preference really. I went with throttle cable simply because I want as few electronics as possible in my car. However I do not have traction control, which I probably wouldn't ever use anyways. Dbw is from 05+ ls2 gto's, and almost every newer ls motor. I do know that c5 corvettes came with dbw since 98. A throttle cable setup would require a custom pedal setup as well as drilling a hole though the firewall. Qwamen did my pedal and it looks amazing. Ordering my lokar cable and getting it setup within the next week

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Ok great! I would be interested in the throttle cable as well. Would I be able to use the Z's and retro fit or go to a chevy dealer and order the petal/cable and install?

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

i used my z's. was pretty simple. dropped it off to qwamen, and *poof* ready for a cable!

what he did was add a bracket, drilled accordingly and adjusted the pedal stop.

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Sound's simple enough.

Another question. Is it a safe to look into an LS1 with 100,000 miles? Just make sure it runs, tear it down to replaces the gaskets and inspect internals...

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

Yes it was a LS2 GTO dropout. He switched tach for 5" race tach. No a/c.
Royal T told me about a little module that will fix the tach problem, I don't remember what he said about it, If you could chime in Royal, would be helpful.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

Stl, I'd imagine It'd befairly safe, I'd check for wear on bearings etc.

Tek, the module was the sgll I believe

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

A little more info on the SIKKY swap today. I took off the T56, 8 simple 1/2 in bolts all the same size to get the bell housing off... easy as pie.

The fitting for the SIKKY master cylinder was simple enough too, then things took a slight turn. The fitting for the bleeder line setup has to be removed with a punch to allow a ball joint to release the stock fitting. I don't have a press or theright size punch, so I had to stop there for the day.

A few small notes with this:

1. The spring and retainer that is on the end of the main trans shaft is no held on by anything, if you tug on it it will release and come right off. If your friend is looking at it when you do this, you will punch him in the face when it releases. I just missed doing this to a friend.

2. The slave section comes off easily with two 10mm bolts. Then you will need a punch and a good clamp or vice to get the set pin out and remove the stock fitting. A new set pin is most likely needed to put the new piece in place as well. A press would be the perfect tool here.

3. Secure the main trans shaft at the rear of the trans with a zip tie or something. I caught mine sliding out while we were messing with the front side.

No busted knuckles today, but no WIN either. I bought a trans table press today though... so I've got that going for me at least

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Thank you

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

Has anyone tried using other headers than the sikky components, any luck with brand or type? I dont really want to use the sikky components because they hang about 3/4" lower than the frame of the car. I was thinking of going with shorty headers but not sure if I have the clearance.

Thanks

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

not too sure on that. i know the truck headers work when flipped forward (and having a v-band welded as snyper did)

you may as well find a local store, see if they have any ls specific headers, and seeing if they fit. if not, return them.



havok, snyper, qwamen, any of you guys- how did you wire up your speedhut tach? i got the yellow going to the tach wire, now the white wire says dash lighting, and i cant find any dash lighting info on the web lol.

google y u no work

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

I have been wondering about how a custom Y pipe could be made to have a cat conv on it to pass inspection AND bolt up to an exotic speed R1-T with 3in pipe.

I wonder what it would sound like....

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

^i do know i have an lt1 3" y pipe and it slipfits right into my sikky headers.

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

So Im assuming the dash light wire is for the lighting element for the tach itself? Just use the fuse box to see what color the headlight wire is then use that i suppose, or parking lights.

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

I ordered the R1T but cancelled for the R2T for the dual setup, But the sikky components are made to fit oem clearences.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

I eep seeing to tap into the ecu wiring and use an inline fuse. It has a constant, dash wiring and ground with a dimming box

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Are you serious??? So I could use something like the Megan Y pipe with the SIKKY headers and it would all mate up properly to the R1T?

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

dang thatd be badass/ more simple options for the swappers