2005 Z Massive power loss no light or code
07-11-2015, 09:13 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Anyone know more about this diagnostic protocol? My exhaust manifold will get super hot & heat soaks to my plenum but what would be the tell tail sign. I have lots of diagnostic equipment but no data logging software or a laser gun that I will get. My car is at operating temp before I am out of the garage. I am afraid either fuel is not being burned & then igniting in the exhaust or it's too lean. I am stumped. Before all this happens when I stopped for gas I noticed a smell like clutch almost or cats? I'm stumped. Any help or ideas that come to mind would be more than appreciated. Once my Foxbody had no power & they said nothing was wrong & I found the #4 fuel injector not plugged in at midnight on my 32nd birthday. I need to take the plenum off. If the injector is bad will it always ohm bad? Even if it's just clogged?
07-12-2015, 09:14 AM
#22
New Member
iTrader: (6)
All newer Nissans have it. Not sure which model year was first. I don't have access to ASIST any more so I can't look it up.
07-13-2015, 10:34 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Could power loss be clutch?
When driving down here every time I stopped I could smell what was like burning clutch at steady long freeway speeds & stopping for gas. I no longer smell this but am wondering if that is my issue? I can't spin the RPMS without the car moving like when a clutch goes. I am not ruling it out though. Any ideas to confirm this or eliminate it.
As far as black box on negative cable. I don't have one & no pics online do either. I have a relay box in front of the battery that's black.
As far as black box on negative cable. I don't have one & no pics online do either. I have a relay box in front of the battery that's black.
07-14-2015, 11:31 AM
#24
Its almost comical to read the blind leading the blind internet mechanics on here.
If your VVT isnt working properly, you'll be down all your horsepower when you floor it. You'll be running super rich as well.
1st clue was when you said that the dealer changed your cam sensors. Go back and start there...
Have you checked your oil level? Low oil will make your VVT not work as well.
If your VVT isnt working properly, you'll be down all your horsepower when you floor it. You'll be running super rich as well.
1st clue was when you said that the dealer changed your cam sensors. Go back and start there...
Have you checked your oil level? Low oil will make your VVT not work as well.
07-14-2015, 03:21 PM
#25
New Member
iTrader: (6)
He said no codes. Some of us aren't "internet mechanics" (see sig).
07-14-2015, 10:09 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oil is perfect & tan. Car is getting poor economy, has no power but told my fuel trim is dead on. I need some dyno data. This has stumped me an aircraft mechanic & every shop & dealer. I have a few ideas. I have a new knock sensor. I am ordering a sub harness & this will give me a good look at the injectors & I also am going to check laser temps of every cylinder. The plenum & the runners can often expose these issues.
07-15-2015, 12:13 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
motive of troubleshooting
Please stop being rude to one another. Altruism is most people intention. I AM going to post the resolution. The BIGGEST clue is the octane booster. I have gone all over the cam sensors they changed. I have the old ones. You should read the warning in the FSM, Owners & our Maint & Service manual about octane booster, fuel additives or any engine additive. ALL of my plugs diodes were red & my stock cats were pink.
The paragraph is stern & synonymous in all 3 Nissan manuals. Obstruction of the fuel delivery system, clog the valves & cause engine damage. It could have cooked itself on the combustion chamber causing detonation or pre ignition. It could have clogged an or all the injectors. The red stuff is MMT so we know it wasn't some special approved Nissan octane booster. Nissan doesn't specify anyway. They say NO COMMERCIAL octane boosters. Commercial would be anything meant for industry & non commercial would be meant for the private sector. This actually stumped Nissan North America. They know the dealers wrong. The 35 mile "diagnostic" joyride? The car was inspected right before they got it & had no undercarriage damage. Nissan using the numbers game. They deny everyone vent when they know they are wrong& maybe 1 out if 100 will actually do something about it legally. It's not about right or wrong, it's ALWAYS about MONEY. Small claims is 10k in this state. I will make them change their motor with their own written work order & own written vernacular contradicting it. Either way my motor has been compromised. It went into the dealer fine. I just wanted things checked before a 2400 mile round trip when I had only put 5k miles on the car since I bought it with 12,690 on the OD 4 years prior. Let's help one another. I try to when I see an issue I recognize. These cars are funny. Anything can cause accelerations loss. A pedal, a throttle body, injector, knock sensors & or sub harness, clutch, MAF, 02's.
My problem is that I have compression, no blow by, I'm burning no oil, oil looks good. New cam, crank sensors & plugs. It's a toughy. No engine lights or codes. I think we are all blind. I think the only way is to open our eyes to more data. I wanna see the plenum, injectors & entire harness & grounds. I live in a small town. No VQ experts here.
The paragraph is stern & synonymous in all 3 Nissan manuals. Obstruction of the fuel delivery system, clog the valves & cause engine damage. It could have cooked itself on the combustion chamber causing detonation or pre ignition. It could have clogged an or all the injectors. The red stuff is MMT so we know it wasn't some special approved Nissan octane booster. Nissan doesn't specify anyway. They say NO COMMERCIAL octane boosters. Commercial would be anything meant for industry & non commercial would be meant for the private sector. This actually stumped Nissan North America. They know the dealers wrong. The 35 mile "diagnostic" joyride? The car was inspected right before they got it & had no undercarriage damage. Nissan using the numbers game. They deny everyone vent when they know they are wrong& maybe 1 out if 100 will actually do something about it legally. It's not about right or wrong, it's ALWAYS about MONEY. Small claims is 10k in this state. I will make them change their motor with their own written work order & own written vernacular contradicting it. Either way my motor has been compromised. It went into the dealer fine. I just wanted things checked before a 2400 mile round trip when I had only put 5k miles on the car since I bought it with 12,690 on the OD 4 years prior. Let's help one another. I try to when I see an issue I recognize. These cars are funny. Anything can cause accelerations loss. A pedal, a throttle body, injector, knock sensors & or sub harness, clutch, MAF, 02's.
My problem is that I have compression, no blow by, I'm burning no oil, oil looks good. New cam, crank sensors & plugs. It's a toughy. No engine lights or codes. I think we are all blind. I think the only way is to open our eyes to more data. I wanna see the plenum, injectors & entire harness & grounds. I live in a small town. No VQ experts here.
Last edited by BIGPOPPAPUMP; 07-15-2015 at 12:15 AM.
07-22-2015, 07:18 AM
#28
Registered User
Please stop being rude to one another. Altruism is most people intention. I AM going to post the resolution. The BIGGEST clue is the octane booster. I have gone all over the cam sensors they changed. I have the old ones. You should read the warning in the FSM, Owners & our Maint & Service manual about octane booster, fuel additives or any engine additive. ALL of my plugs diodes were red & my stock cats were pink.
The paragraph is stern & synonymous in all 3 Nissan manuals. Obstruction of the fuel delivery system, clog the valves & cause engine damage. It could have cooked itself on the combustion chamber causing detonation or pre ignition. It could have clogged an or all the injectors. The red stuff is MMT so we know it wasn't some special approved Nissan octane booster. Nissan doesn't specify anyway. They say NO COMMERCIAL octane boosters. Commercial would be anything meant for industry & non commercial would be meant for the private sector. This actually stumped Nissan North America. They know the dealers wrong. The 35 mile "diagnostic" joyride? The car was inspected right before they got it & had no undercarriage damage. Nissan using the numbers game. They deny everyone vent when they know they are wrong& maybe 1 out if 100 will actually do something about it legally. It's not about right or wrong, it's ALWAYS about MONEY. Small claims is 10k in this state. I will make them change their motor with their own written work order & own written vernacular contradicting it. Either way my motor has been compromised. It went into the dealer fine. I just wanted things checked before a 2400 mile round trip when I had only put 5k miles on the car since I bought it with 12,690 on the OD 4 years prior. Let's help one another. I try to when I see an issue I recognize. These cars are funny. Anything can cause accelerations loss. A pedal, a throttle body, injector, knock sensors & or sub harness, clutch, MAF, 02's.
My problem is that I have compression, no blow by, I'm burning no oil, oil looks good. New cam, crank sensors & plugs. It's a toughy. No engine lights or codes. I think we are all blind. I think the only way is to open our eyes to more data. I wanna see the plenum, injectors & entire harness & grounds. I live in a small town. No VQ experts here.
The paragraph is stern & synonymous in all 3 Nissan manuals. Obstruction of the fuel delivery system, clog the valves & cause engine damage. It could have cooked itself on the combustion chamber causing detonation or pre ignition. It could have clogged an or all the injectors. The red stuff is MMT so we know it wasn't some special approved Nissan octane booster. Nissan doesn't specify anyway. They say NO COMMERCIAL octane boosters. Commercial would be anything meant for industry & non commercial would be meant for the private sector. This actually stumped Nissan North America. They know the dealers wrong. The 35 mile "diagnostic" joyride? The car was inspected right before they got it & had no undercarriage damage. Nissan using the numbers game. They deny everyone vent when they know they are wrong& maybe 1 out if 100 will actually do something about it legally. It's not about right or wrong, it's ALWAYS about MONEY. Small claims is 10k in this state. I will make them change their motor with their own written work order & own written vernacular contradicting it. Either way my motor has been compromised. It went into the dealer fine. I just wanted things checked before a 2400 mile round trip when I had only put 5k miles on the car since I bought it with 12,690 on the OD 4 years prior. Let's help one another. I try to when I see an issue I recognize. These cars are funny. Anything can cause accelerations loss. A pedal, a throttle body, injector, knock sensors & or sub harness, clutch, MAF, 02's.
My problem is that I have compression, no blow by, I'm burning no oil, oil looks good. New cam, crank sensors & plugs. It's a toughy. No engine lights or codes. I think we are all blind. I think the only way is to open our eyes to more data. I wanna see the plenum, injectors & entire harness & grounds. I live in a small town. No VQ experts here.
I've overdosed on fuel system cleaner several times. Specifically gumout regane. I burn tons of oil so it's necessary. It would be pretty difficult to cause damage unless the chemicals eat seals, injectors. I would say your octane booster isn't the problem, you would have a cel.
I would check every ground.
08-11-2015, 10:14 PM
#29
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same problem
I suddenly had a massive power loss as well.
When I bought my 03 350z. The previous owner had a k&n filter on it.
And the exhaust was straight piped.
I brought it in to Nissan dealership. They said I needed to replace the air filter, mass air flow sensor, main fuel level pump and the exhaust.
I bright it in for a second opinion. And ended up getting the knock senator replaced. It gave me back my power for like a could weeks. Then went back down.
At start up the rpms would drop then go back up.
Up hills it felt as is If was in a really low gear and going to kill it.
When I would go into first gear it would jump then lose power and slowly speed up.
I just recently changed the intake. To DC sports non oil filter. And it helped with my power on start up. It now idles perfect no up and down in rpms. And right after I installed it. It drove like a dream. However at my first stop. As I went to accelerate it was struggling. Like I could hear the air trying to flow but felt like it was hitting a wall. I am thinking I need to clean mass air flow sensor next. ,
But I was just curious what sort of air filter you were using. Could possibly be part of the problem.
Thank you for reading
When I bought my 03 350z. The previous owner had a k&n filter on it.
And the exhaust was straight piped.
I brought it in to Nissan dealership. They said I needed to replace the air filter, mass air flow sensor, main fuel level pump and the exhaust.
I bright it in for a second opinion. And ended up getting the knock senator replaced. It gave me back my power for like a could weeks. Then went back down.
At start up the rpms would drop then go back up.
Up hills it felt as is If was in a really low gear and going to kill it.
When I would go into first gear it would jump then lose power and slowly speed up.
I just recently changed the intake. To DC sports non oil filter. And it helped with my power on start up. It now idles perfect no up and down in rpms. And right after I installed it. It drove like a dream. However at my first stop. As I went to accelerate it was struggling. Like I could hear the air trying to flow but felt like it was hitting a wall. I am thinking I need to clean mass air flow sensor next. ,
But I was just curious what sort of air filter you were using. Could possibly be part of the problem.
Thank you for reading
08-12-2015, 01:41 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Re
I have a new knock sensor but I read when you replace them the sub harness needs to be replaced as well. It's like 30 bucks for that harness. The intake change was probably just either a bar PCV or vacuum leak you rectified swapping. You did have a bad knock sensor & a clogged pcv or pcv's and possibly unmetered air getting into the intake via a vacuum leak. Your input has been very helpful. I will get two new PCV's, the sub harness & swap the knock sensor. It will also give me a better look down the runner to identify a combustion chamber & ohm each injector. Thanks man. Very informative.
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