DIY: Huge Oil cooler for track cars / hp cars
#1
DIY: Huge Oil cooler for track cars / hp cars
This is how I chose to install my oil cooler. 34 row setrab.
The idea is to have lots of ground clearance for those inevitable off track moments. Everything is mounted high up and doesn't run under the sway bar or rad structure like ive seen done a few times.
The hose ends are on the TOP no chance of braking them off.
Parts:
Take off the bumper and crash beam - lots of write ups, its very easy
Line up where you want the cooler to go. Make sure you have the hose ends on when mocking up the location.
I used rivenuts in the plastic structure for mounting. I chose M8 nuts
I also made a metal bracket for the top left point. I have total 5 bolt down points on the cooler.
I fire sleeved the hoses for added just in case.
Made a hole! This is how I managed to keep all the hoses inside the plastic structure. I also cut a scrap rubber tube down the center and covered the hole edges, didnt take a photo of that
Ran the hoses above the sway bar and to here. By the alt. Little clearance, but nothing is hitting. Will keep an eye on it.
Done!
The idea is to have lots of ground clearance for those inevitable off track moments. Everything is mounted high up and doesn't run under the sway bar or rad structure like ive seen done a few times.
The hose ends are on the TOP no chance of braking them off.
Parts:
- 34 row setrab cooler with mounting brackets - SET634
- Setrab 90 deg hose ends - SET22-M22RU10-90 These are really nice and give you a little bit more space for the hose and fittings.
- Mocal sandwich plate with the correct -10an adapters MOC-SP1FT and MOC-2BM810A
- 90 deg hose ends
- DEI fire shield
Take off the bumper and crash beam - lots of write ups, its very easy
Line up where you want the cooler to go. Make sure you have the hose ends on when mocking up the location.
I used rivenuts in the plastic structure for mounting. I chose M8 nuts
I also made a metal bracket for the top left point. I have total 5 bolt down points on the cooler.
I fire sleeved the hoses for added just in case.
Made a hole! This is how I managed to keep all the hoses inside the plastic structure. I also cut a scrap rubber tube down the center and covered the hole edges, didnt take a photo of that
Ran the hoses above the sway bar and to here. By the alt. Little clearance, but nothing is hitting. Will keep an eye on it.
Done!
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#11
2 coolers
..I guess this is X2 stupidly big...LOL...AT and engine coolers on 4.0 TT...
2 X 40 row Setrabs.
2 X 40 row Setrabs.
Last edited by ogiehooker; 11-23-2013 at 05:42 PM. Reason: left out words
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Negative. It doesn't really matter as far as I have been informed. I have mine on the sides, but a lot of friends have them on the top or bottom.
Here's a discussion on this topic on a Porsche forum: Does oil cooler orientation matter??
Here's a discussion on this topic on a Porsche forum: Does oil cooler orientation matter??
#15
New Member
Negative. It doesn't really matter as far as I have been informed. I have mine on the sides, but a lot of friends have them on the top or bottom.
Here's a discussion on this topic on a Porsche forum: Does oil cooler orientation matter??
Here's a discussion on this topic on a Porsche forum: Does oil cooler orientation matter??
Last edited by yosip1115; 06-20-2016 at 05:26 AM.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
For the first 2-3 seconds at cold startup my engine runs rough. I suspect it has trouble building oil pressure due to my oil cooler lines draining overnight. I see the oil light flicker for a split second. Do you have this issue? My oil cooler ports both are facing up like yours... My cooler is smaller than yours so I am imagining it would be worse for you? I have been driving it for 5k miles no problem but am considering an accusump or something for peace of mind...
Mine are actually on the side. I don't notice a drop in oil pressure, but I also have a thermostatic oil sandwich plate. Though, I do have a slightly lower pressure at idle and 3k (maybe 3-5psi) than I previously did with no oil cooler, but I've had some weird issues recently. I'll be able to confirm more after I do an oil change and tighten things up a bit more as I have a slight leak from the oil cooler and maybe one other location (unsure just yet). That being said, my pressure is actually in spec, and actually a bit higher than normal when it goes through the rev range.
Accusump is neat if you're thinking about tracking the car for extended periods of time. Aside from that, I wouldn't really bother.
But here is some information on accusump as well.
Project Nissan 350Z - Oil Cooling System Install - Sending A Life Line
Accusump - My350Z.COM Forums
Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech
Last edited by QuintonC; 06-20-2016 at 07:57 AM. Reason: Edited to add one more link
#18
New Member
Mine are actually on the side. I don't notice a drop in oil pressure, but I also have a thermostatic oil sandwich plate. Though, I do have a slightly lower pressure at idle and 3k (maybe 3-5psi) than I previously did with no oil cooler, but I've had some weird issues recently. I'll be able to confirm more after I do an oil change and tighten things up a bit more as I have a slight leak from the oil cooler and maybe one other location (unsure just yet). That being said, my pressure is actually in spec, and actually a bit higher than normal when it goes through the rev range.
Accusump is neat if you're thinking about tracking the car for extended periods of time. Aside from that, I wouldn't really bother.
But here is some information on accusump as well.
Project Nissan 350Z - Oil Cooling System Install - Sending A Life Line
Accusump - My350Z.COM Forums
Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech
My mistake, I misread and thought that yours were on top.
My only reason for considering an accusump is for startups...
My cooler is located about 10" above the oil level in the pan. I'm thinking that the inlet and outlet lines drain into the pan when the car is parked overnight. The oil pump will need to fill the feed line, get the small amount of air out of the cooler, then fill the return line before the oil pressure will normalize... All of that air needs to go through my engine... Not good.
An accusump can do this for me, but there may be a simpler option like reorientation of the cooler or adding a one way valve. I could use some advice!
Agreed! I start it up with the clutch out to take care of my main bearings... But I just realized it was oil pressure causing a shudder at startup... Not fuel pressure.
Last edited by yosip1115; 06-20-2016 at 10:00 AM.
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Before investing money into an accusump setup, I would just relocate the cooler. That sounds like it is the source of your problem (I would assume). Like I mentioned, I wouldn't really consider accusump just for startup...
#20
I really don't get how having the lines at the bottom of a cooler could casue any problems with pressure or air in the system? Likewise, how could having them on top be ideal?
Look at how home radiators are buit.
So far no one has been able to give me a scientific explanation why that would matter and all the machanics I've been talking to said it didn't matter.
Look at how home radiators are buit.
So far no one has been able to give me a scientific explanation why that would matter and all the machanics I've been talking to said it didn't matter.