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Turbo 350Z Rear Tire Suggestions

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Old 04-14-2011, 04:49 AM
  #21  
Lightning Guy
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I ran the Khumo MX 295/35/18 for years both on the street and track. Now the car only wears R compounds and gets trailered everywhere.

The Khumo was inexpensive and had great dry traction, a little noisy due to the large outer tread blocks, but all in all, of the street tires at that time I liked it best.

not so sure of any tire newer than 2009, that about the time it became a racecar.
Old 04-14-2011, 05:37 AM
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derekinthez
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check out the 295/30 Vredestein Ultrac's
Old 04-14-2011, 05:41 AM
  #23  
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Im a broken record on this topic, but camber will make more of a difference than a 315 would. I rarely see people ask what tire AND camber is recommended?

I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.

If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
Old 04-14-2011, 06:40 AM
  #24  
scotts300
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Im a broken record on this topic, but camber will make more of a difference than a 315 would. I rarely see people ask what tire AND camber is recommended?

I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.

If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
Well said. A sticky, fresh, tire without a boatload of camber is WAY better than a wide, browned tire or one that is old. I've run all kinds of widths and tire brands, but the day I had the most traction was when I put on a "small" 275/40 RT615, which was new. No tire should be expected to hold the traction of a boosted car in 1st gear, but most fail in 2nd as well. To my surprise, she pointed straight, had a little spin, but was still accelerating in 2nd at 24psi of boost (~650rwhp). I've learned to replace tires more often than their looks imply they need. And although the market for used tires blows, the good-condition used ones still sell. I'm actually in the process of shopping for a new 275 now!
Old 04-14-2011, 07:07 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by derekinthez
check out the 295/30 Vredestein Ultrac's
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
Old 04-14-2011, 07:08 AM
  #26  
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In the summer my 275/30 cheap Fuzion ZRIs would hook really well. Had no problem catching traction in 2nd gear. I was impressed for cheap tires that I needed to get in a hurry.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:33 AM
  #27  
derekinthez
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Originally Posted by suprasam
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
Mine are holding traction in 2nd and 3rd, but I'm only at the 440whp level. I have not had an opportunity to determine wet traction, becuase my Z rarely sees rain.
Old 04-14-2011, 08:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by suprasam
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
Temps and power?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:54 AM
  #29  
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Problem with RE 11 - nothing sold bigger than 275/40R18
Problem with new Michelin Pilot Super Sport - nothing sold bigger than 285/35ZR18
Do not think I can fit a Michelin PS2: 315/30ZR18
Michelin does not make a 305/18 PS2

Last edited by zman2; 04-14-2011 at 08:59 AM.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:03 AM
  #30  
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Alberto:
You are probably not concerned about tire mileage with 605+ HP
How much do you think changing my camber to -1.1 would effect my tire mileage ?
Example: I just got ~ 20,000 miles with my PS2
Old 04-14-2011, 09:11 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by zman2
Problem with RE 11 - nothing sold bigger than 275/40R18
Problem with new Michelin Pilot Super Sport - nothing sold bigger than 285/35ZR18
Do not think I can fit a Michelin PS2: 315/30ZR18
Michelin does not make a 305/18 PS2
Time to move to a 19 inch wheel!
Old 04-14-2011, 09:17 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by zman2
Alberto:
You are probably not concerned about tire mileage with 605+ HP
How much do you think changing my camber to -1.1 would effect my tire mileage ?
Example: I just got ~ 20,000 miles with my PS2
What is your camber now? Keep in mind IIRC the rating for a KDW2 is 280, thats higher (ie less sticky) than a lot of these guys who run an almost race spec street tire but then they dont even bother with camber, so its a waste of $$$ for them. I havent seen the need to go that route in my car for what I do with it.

Believe it or not, my first set of KDW2's were on the car 20K miles. Fronts at -2 all the way to -1.5 where it sits now, and rears from -2.3 to as "upright" as -1.

I changed the rears and all the 2nd gear spinning, 1st gear, messing around, etc had finally caused them to die. The fronts still had meat on them, even after ZdayZ and years of hard driving. Every once in a while I would go out in the dead of winter just to do the 4th gear highway dance for what seemed like 1/8 mile

Going to something more positive will usually prolong tire life, at the expense of some handling. My car handled insanely at -2 all around, but now at -1.5F/-1.1R its seems more stable but doesnt change direction as quickly. Its all a compromise.

Last edited by Alberto; 04-14-2011 at 09:19 AM.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:35 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by derekinthez
Mine are holding traction in 2nd and 3rd, but I'm only at the 440whp level. I have not had an opportunity to determine wet traction, becuase my Z rarely sees rain.
rwhp is not the biggest concern, IMO, it's the slope of the torque curve. For example, it's easy to keep a supercharged car planted with grip with a "small" 275 tire even at 400rwhp since it's relatively lower torque and the torque curve is smooth. I have to dick around with the gain in my boost controller on my TTZ to smooth it out via the wastegate. I also have a low/high boost button which is mounted on the steering wheel.

Originally Posted by zman2
Problem with RE 11 - nothing sold bigger than 275/40R18
Problem with new Michelin Pilot Super Sport - nothing sold bigger than 285/35ZR18
Do not think I can fit a Michelin PS2: 315/30ZR18
Michelin does not make a 305/18 PS2
I'll take a new 275/40/18 RE11 over a 295 BFG KDW2 (as an example) any day. The extra sidewall will help as well.

Originally Posted by rcdash
Time to move to a 19 inch wheel!
You are probably joking, but just to be clear, that is not a good approach. Even if you grabbed a set of 305/30/19 PS2s, the small sidewall will still fight the weight transfer.

OP - how about a set of 295/40/18 RT615s? I have a new set of those that I'm trying to ditch since they wouldn't fit on my 300.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:35 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
What is your camber now? Keep in mind IIRC the rating for a KDW2 is 280, thats higher (ie less sticky) than a lot of these guys who run an almost race spec street tire but then they dont even bother with camber, so its a waste of $$$ for them. I havent seen the need to go that route in my car for what I do with it.

Believe it or not, my first set of KDW2's were on the car 20K miles. Fronts at -2 all the way to -1.5 where it sits now, and rears from -2.3 to as "upright" as -1.

I changed the rears and all the 2nd gear spinning, 1st gear, messing around, etc had finally caused them to die. The fronts still had meat on them, even after ZdayZ and years of hard driving. Every once in a while I would go out in the dead of winter just to do the 4th gear highway dance for what seemed like 1/8 mile

Going to something more positive will usually prolong tire life, at the expense of some handling. My car handled insanely at -2 all around, but now at -1.5F/-1.1R its seems more stable but doesnt change direction as quickly. Its all a compromise.
With going FI I was really concerned about traction and I do not have a 2nd car to drive. Your post has made me less concerned because I won't be running power levels anywhere near your car but I am going to be running the exact same tire setup in the rear 295x35x19 -2 on KDW2s. Luckily I don't care about premature tire wear because I am sponsored by BFG and get a set every year.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:46 AM
  #35  
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I run my rears at 30-31psi btw. NA Id run much higher pressures but that also helps a little with traction, dont pump em with 40psi!
Old 04-14-2011, 09:54 AM
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yea i have 35psi right now.
Old 04-14-2011, 11:05 AM
  #37  
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RE-11s are rated at 180AA and they hold 500 wtq for me in (most of) 2nd gear on a hot day (-1.3 camber).

Scotts300, all of these street tires have a stiff sidewall. Limiting yourself to 18 inch size because of the slightly lower profile sidewall in a 19 inch does not seem to be a reasonable argument.

Last edited by rcdash; 04-14-2011 at 12:10 PM.
Old 04-14-2011, 12:05 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Temps and power?
low boost 9.5 ~ 435whp. did some runs yesterday so it was about 90.

Last edited by suprasam; 04-14-2011 at 12:34 PM.
Old 04-14-2011, 01:52 PM
  #39  
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The tire choice isn't the most important factor.


What I suggest to you is if you want traction for a reason buy a set of DR's and put them on when you need it. For DD get a long lasting cheaper tire that has manageable traction properties. That way your not constantly spending money on tires, you'll have better traction than most anyone when you need it, the temptation from doing stuff all day long on the street is somewhat controlled since you know you wont be having traction, and when you do put those DR's on you'll have learned from DD'ing with crap tires how to manage any traction issues A LOT BETTER.

Thats if you would like to learn how to drive

Last edited by forced_04; 04-14-2011 at 02:51 PM. Reason: realized OP wasnt vortech
Old 04-15-2011, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by forced_04
Thats if you would like to learn how to drive
What do you run and with what power?


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