Turbo 350Z Rear Tire Suggestions
I ran the Khumo MX 295/35/18 for years both on the street and track. Now the car only wears R compounds and gets trailered everywhere.
The Khumo was inexpensive and had great dry traction, a little noisy due to the large outer tread blocks, but all in all, of the street tires at that time I liked it best.
not so sure of any tire newer than 2009, that about the time it became a racecar.
The Khumo was inexpensive and had great dry traction, a little noisy due to the large outer tread blocks, but all in all, of the street tires at that time I liked it best.
not so sure of any tire newer than 2009, that about the time it became a racecar.
Im a broken record on this topic, but camber will make more of a difference than a 315 would. I rarely see people ask what tire AND camber is recommended?
I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.
If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.
If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
Im a broken record on this topic, but camber will make more of a difference than a 315 would. I rarely see people ask what tire AND camber is recommended?
I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.
If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
I run a 295/35/19 KDW2. 605hp/540tq @ low boost I can hook in 2nd gear when its warm out. I can also mat it and spin, its all in how you apply the throttle and at what speed/rpm. No issues in 3rd gear in the summer at that power. My camber was at -1.1, but I think its gone .2 or .3 tenths more negative.
If you cant hook in 2nd gear with LESS power than that, you are doing something wrong. Your car isnt fast because you spin, its fast because it can hook, so bragging about spinning 3rd or 4th is ghey, I'll fly by you.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 498
Likes: 1
From: ATL, FT Benning, North Cak
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
In the summer my 275/30 cheap Fuzion ZRIs would hook really well. Had no problem catching traction in 2nd gear. I was impressed for cheap tires that I needed to get in a hurry.
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
I just got a rear set of these last month 295/30s. Seem to be doing better than my Toyo T1Rs 285/30s so far but they still break loose in 2nd and 3rd. Haven't had much rain lately so not sure of wet performance but they get good ratings. No track time though. I want to get 305s next time.
Problem with RE 11 - nothing sold bigger than 275/40R18
Problem with new Michelin Pilot Super Sport - nothing sold bigger than 285/35ZR18
Do not think I can fit a Michelin PS2: 315/30ZR18
Michelin does not make a 305/18 PS2
Problem with new Michelin Pilot Super Sport - nothing sold bigger than 285/35ZR18
Do not think I can fit a Michelin PS2: 315/30ZR18
Michelin does not make a 305/18 PS2
Last edited by zman2; Apr 14, 2011 at 08:59 AM.
Alberto:
You are probably not concerned about tire mileage with 605+ HP
How much do you think changing my camber to -1.1 would effect my tire mileage ?
Example: I just got ~ 20,000 miles with my PS2
You are probably not concerned about tire mileage with 605+ HP
How much do you think changing my camber to -1.1 would effect my tire mileage ?
Example: I just got ~ 20,000 miles with my PS2
Believe it or not, my first set of KDW2's were on the car 20K miles. Fronts at -2 all the way to -1.5 where it sits now, and rears from -2.3 to as "upright" as -1.
I changed the rears and all the 2nd gear spinning, 1st gear, messing around, etc had finally caused them to die. The fronts still had meat on them, even after ZdayZ and years of hard driving. Every once in a while I would go out in the dead of winter just to do the 4th gear highway dance for what seemed like 1/8 mile
Going to something more positive will usually prolong tire life, at the expense of some handling. My car handled insanely at -2 all around, but now at -1.5F/-1.1R its seems more stable but doesnt change direction as quickly. Its all a compromise.
Last edited by Alberto; Apr 14, 2011 at 09:19 AM.
You are probably joking, but just to be clear, that is not a good approach. Even if you grabbed a set of 305/30/19 PS2s, the small sidewall will still fight the weight transfer.
OP - how about a set of 295/40/18 RT615s? I have a new set of those that I'm trying to ditch since they wouldn't fit on my 300.
What is your camber now? Keep in mind IIRC the rating for a KDW2 is 280, thats higher (ie less sticky) than a lot of these guys who run an almost race spec street tire but then they dont even bother with camber, so its a waste of $$$ for them. I havent seen the need to go that route in my car for what I do with it.
Believe it or not, my first set of KDW2's were on the car 20K miles. Fronts at -2 all the way to -1.5 where it sits now, and rears from -2.3 to as "upright" as -1.
I changed the rears and all the 2nd gear spinning, 1st gear, messing around, etc had finally caused them to die. The fronts still had meat on them, even after ZdayZ and years of hard driving. Every once in a while I would go out in the dead of winter just to do the 4th gear highway dance for what seemed like 1/8 mile
Going to something more positive will usually prolong tire life, at the expense of some handling. My car handled insanely at -2 all around, but now at -1.5F/-1.1R its seems more stable but doesnt change direction as quickly. Its all a compromise.
Believe it or not, my first set of KDW2's were on the car 20K miles. Fronts at -2 all the way to -1.5 where it sits now, and rears from -2.3 to as "upright" as -1.
I changed the rears and all the 2nd gear spinning, 1st gear, messing around, etc had finally caused them to die. The fronts still had meat on them, even after ZdayZ and years of hard driving. Every once in a while I would go out in the dead of winter just to do the 4th gear highway dance for what seemed like 1/8 mile
Going to something more positive will usually prolong tire life, at the expense of some handling. My car handled insanely at -2 all around, but now at -1.5F/-1.1R its seems more stable but doesnt change direction as quickly. Its all a compromise.
RE-11s are rated at 180AA and they hold 500 wtq for me in (most of) 2nd gear on a hot day (-1.3 camber).
Scotts300, all of these street tires have a stiff sidewall. Limiting yourself to 18 inch size because of the slightly lower profile sidewall in a 19 inch does not seem to be a reasonable argument.
Scotts300, all of these street tires have a stiff sidewall. Limiting yourself to 18 inch size because of the slightly lower profile sidewall in a 19 inch does not seem to be a reasonable argument.
Last edited by rcdash; Apr 14, 2011 at 12:10 PM.
The tire choice isn't the most important factor.
What I suggest to you is if you want traction for a reason buy a set of DR's and put them on when you need it. For DD get a long lasting cheaper tire that has manageable traction properties. That way your not constantly spending money on tires, you'll have better traction than most anyone when you need it, the temptation from doing stuff all day long on the street is somewhat controlled since you know you wont be having traction, and when you do put those DR's on you'll have learned from DD'ing with crap tires how to manage any traction issues A LOT BETTER.
Thats if you would like to learn how to drive
What I suggest to you is if you want traction for a reason buy a set of DR's and put them on when you need it. For DD get a long lasting cheaper tire that has manageable traction properties. That way your not constantly spending money on tires, you'll have better traction than most anyone when you need it, the temptation from doing stuff all day long on the street is somewhat controlled since you know you wont be having traction, and when you do put those DR's on you'll have learned from DD'ing with crap tires how to manage any traction issues A LOT BETTER.
Thats if you would like to learn how to drive
Last edited by forced_04; Apr 14, 2011 at 02:51 PM. Reason: realized OP wasnt vortech