bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Still fighting this abnormal buzzing sound...nothing has fixed the problem thus far...I have noticed that if I ever-so-easily apply the throttle the buzzing doesnt occur and if I throw it a few hard revs (~3500 rpms) it'll buzz as the throttle drops back down.

swapped out my dw600 for OEM~190s

I added a single fuel damper to my CJ Motorsports RFS rail

Swapped out my walbro 255 for my OEM pump

Swapped out the throttle bodies

Swapped out fuel pressure regulators

Ran the car with the timing control solenoids unplugged

The buzz is most prominent at the silver AN/NPT fitting that connect my fuel hose to the fuel rail. No significant noise coming from the water pump (its pretty new) and generally speaking it's seems like its coming from under the plenum on the drivers side.

I think I'm going to Ebay a OEM fuel rail and check that - holy hell I'm getting good at taking the plenum & intake manifold off!

on occasion I'll get a P0300 for a random misfire and got a P0124 (or something like that) for a high air intake temp - nothing too alarming.


A quick hat-tip to cux350 for providing me his IAT sensor calibrations and JDMV35 for helping me chase this buzzing...

Escobar

iTrader: (27)

have you contacted charles @ cjm? I think he knows more about the Z fuel system than anyone. Hes cool as hell, super helpful/knowledgeable guy. Just a thought. Good luck man, I know rattles will drive you nuts.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

east coast esco - nah, didnt bother charles...other than to update his OEM fuel basket pictures. I'm slightly worried that it's not fuel system despite how prominent the sound is coming from the rail. I'm going to resume with checking/chasing the timing chain next - I'll pop off the water pump / timing chain covers and check those for buzzing sounds. I've also commissioned some local help to broaden my horizons.

I think my buddies are more concerned with the problem than I am...I'm stacked at work along with a few other things going on that I haven't had time to do much.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

where is your FPR mounted? if to the firewall, thats prolly the source of the noise

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Yup, I mounted mine there and it's generating a good bit of ticking noise.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

yeah, it's mounted to the firewall right behind the evap sensor. My only doubt is that it's been mounted there since I installed the RFS. Where is a better place to mount it? Thanks for the insight btw.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Been working on the old man's vette last week or so...but still chasing this damn buzzing sound!

did a little adjustments on the exhaust to ensure it wasnt rubbing on the chassis and check my PCV and vac hoses ... to no avail...

Going to remove the exhaust completely next few days and gonna take the stethoscope under the car ... Jeff, you gonna be around?

Weeezel

iTrader: (1)

Hats off to you for doing this on your own. I wouldnt have the patience to do this. I just bit the bullet myself and purchased a 20g TT kit for my z(a few minutes ago actually) Now i'm having buyers remorse -_-

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^Why? First day of the rest of your life!

my little tid-bits worth repeating that keep me going ...

Don't look to be happy, look to be satisfied (adam corolla)
The journey is the reward (boathouse jackets)

terrj

iTrader: (2)

Great job, and at this point im really curious how the bumper is going to look like....

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

A front bumper isnt on the radar at this point...I've thought about revising my front end and going with an aluminum frame but until I solve this d@mn buzzing sounds - nothing is moving forward...

with that being said...The exhaust looked to be rubbing on the chassis halfway down so I adjusted the pipes and no change. I completely unbolted the exhaust from the test pipes and despite it's unmufflered noise, the buzzing continued.

In my 'unplug one thing at a time' strategy, I cycled through the coils and the buzz did not cease. I am working my way through the injectors (a much slower process).

Once those are cleared I will 'check the box' with the coolant temp sensor, intake air sensor, engine position sensor and the few sensors on the transmission...not likely but at least I can sleep at night. Once I determine these are the cause I am going to crack the timing chain case and ensure my secondary timing chain tensioners are functioning...if I have the cash I may replace the timing chains and tensioners for good measure.

if I had to guess (with what I know now) it would be the driver side secondary chain is producing this buzzing due to a partially blocked oil passage to the tensioner piston - sorta backwards upside down hindsight...

In the meantime, still working with my old man on his vette, my sister cranked out another tax payer, might be jumping ship and both my rec hockey teams are killing it - summer league playoffs start in 1 week.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

a little bit of an update - still cant figure out the 'buzz' but more than a few isolation sessions have placed it in the fuel system. With persuasion from JDMV35 to move on, I have moved on.

I've had the car out a handful of times using the knowledge from HPA to rough tune my fuel map. Running the car up and down the street at low load from 1000 - 4000rpm, data logging and adjusting my fuel values accordingly has proven to be a self-satisfying endeavor. So damn satisfying that I took the car to the store on sunday morning to get eggs & bacon...what a feat!

If it's one thing I want to get out of this build it's to understand how the car functions...I absolutely love knowing/understanding/learning these aspects...a tip of the hat to the CUX350, the Resmarted, the JDMV35, Escobar, Conway and many others who more/less have gotten me to this point...thanks!

djamps

iTrader: (1)

To me that buzz sounds like something hard vibrating against the frame or near the firewall -- when the engine twists when tapping the gas, it either pushes it closer or pulls it away enough to rattle. My 18G kit has a few vibrations/rattles as well, check the turbo housings, charge piping, downpipes, even the exhaust for anything close to something. These kits barely fit and it's likely something is either too close or already laying against something else.

Juztin

iTrader: (9)

Why? The 20G kit was bad ***. I ran both the 18G and 20G on DE's and I love the 20G kit. If I could still get it for my HR I would.

It has plenty of room for power, it wouldn't spool up in 1st gear at all, but once it did in 2nd... forget it... hahah.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I got my eyes open and for as much stuff is crammed up near the strut tower - could be the culprit - I know my passenger side blower is pretty close to the chassis / driver side is much better.

If it's one thing I didnt stethoscope it is the chassis...luckily that's an easy one.

It's very prevalent in the fuel lines even as far back as the feed/return lines just underneath the fuel pump/tank.

Escobar

iTrader: (27)

You may have found the culprit there, I was trying to remember when my Z was doing that. I had the strut brace too tight and when I revved up the engine and it moved it made that buzzing sound. I backed it off a few turns and it was gone. hopefully thats it!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

ahh ****...

let the rebuild begin...

eZg

iTrader: (5)

what??

did your engine explode?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^nah, my wallet exploded...

the pup (I use the term loosely - she's coming up on 7 years old) ruptured her ACL ... bless her little husky-heart and thank god she's cute!

cincysilvias14

aww poor girl hope she pulls through quickly bub