The Birth Of A Boosted Performance G35 Sedan
#1
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The Birth Of A Boosted Performance G35 Sedan
A few weeks ago I decided to ditch the Vortech V3 build I was doing and decided to go turbo. My original desire was to turbo my G from the beginning but went with the S/C for show purposes. Put the engine bling aside, I dropped the compression on my block from 11:1 to 8.5:1, and I packed up the vortech and off it went to it's new owner. I'm still gathering the remaining parts for this build and will update my progress as I go. My power goals are to make at least 550-600whp on 93 pump gas.
Boosted Performance 6266 1.15 a/r twin scroll
IPP 8.5:1 CP pistons short block eagle/wiseco
Southbend clutch flywheel combo
ID1000 injectors
CJM STG 2
Momentum headers
ARP main and L19
Aluminum driveshaft
Koyo Radiator with Spal 1200 CFM fans
Fluidampr
APS Plenum
REVUP oil pump
Haltech
Boosted Performance 6266 1.15 a/r twin scroll
IPP 8.5:1 CP pistons short block eagle/wiseco
Southbend clutch flywheel combo
ID1000 injectors
CJM STG 2
Momentum headers
ARP main and L19
Aluminum driveshaft
Koyo Radiator with Spal 1200 CFM fans
Fluidampr
APS Plenum
REVUP oil pump
Haltech
Last edited by shawndon; 05-21-2016 at 07:14 AM.
#3
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Lots of neat parts! Good luck on your build! How far in RPM do you plan to rev your G? 272 cams have DE guys revving to 7400+ with a tune. By then you'll be touching 16+psi at redline on the 3.12.
#4
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I'd Like to rev to 7200 but will most likely shift before that. The JWT C2 cams are 261 from what i read on their site. The C8 cams are 272
Last edited by shawndon; 03-22-2016 at 12:50 PM.
#7
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My block hasn't even been finished yet. Since the season has started already I'm going to have to wait now until the season is over since I travel to out of state events
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#8
#9
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Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm at the beginning stages of my vortech V3 VQ35DE non rev build and just wanted to get some feedback on what I have so far. I've gathered a lot of info from several builds and threads on this forum but I know there is always more to learn. My power goals are to make at least 500Whp
Vortech V3 with Si upgrade 3.12 pulley Stock cogs
IPP 11:1 CR short block eagle/wiseco
JWT C2 cams and heavy duty springs
JWT clutch flywheel combo
ID1000 injectors
CJM STG 2
Aeromotive 340
Treadstone tr1245
DC sport headers
Labree resonated TPs
Tanabe Exhaust
ARP main and L19
Aluminum driveshaft
Oil cooler
Koyo Radiator with Spal 1200 CFM fans
5/16 spacer
NWP 75mm TB
REVUP oil pump
UPREV GT MAF
Osiris tuning to be done by Jon at Z1 to 93 octane
Vortech V3 with Si upgrade 3.12 pulley Stock cogs
IPP 11:1 CR short block eagle/wiseco
JWT C2 cams and heavy duty springs
JWT clutch flywheel combo
ID1000 injectors
CJM STG 2
Aeromotive 340
Treadstone tr1245
DC sport headers
Labree resonated TPs
Tanabe Exhaust
ARP main and L19
Aluminum driveshaft
Oil cooler
Koyo Radiator with Spal 1200 CFM fans
5/16 spacer
NWP 75mm TB
REVUP oil pump
UPREV GT MAF
Osiris tuning to be done by Jon at Z1 to 93 octane
you probably also want to swap to a cd009 manual transmission also since your going to remove your driveshaft and transmission
can do 7200 rpm max on stock cams.
would rather save money and get mishimoto radiator instead of koyo lots of track guys that run evos stand by the quality of mishimoto save yourself 100 bucks. somebody told me koyo doesnt come with the radiator cap so if you decide to buy koyo you will have to buy the radiator cap separately whereas the mishimoto comes with a radiator cap.
instead of arp mains you can get the hr main bolts they are the equivalent in quality and can be torqued to the same ft-lbs yet only cost about 70 bucks versus 210 for the arp mains.
Last edited by Justin100; 04-24-2016 at 03:46 AM.
#10
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you will need a twin disk clutch since your on the border with atleast 500whp.....
you probably also want to swap to a cd009 manual transmission also since your going to remove your driveshaft and transmission
can do 7200 rpm max on stock cams.
would rather save money and get mishimoto radiator instead of koyo lots of track guys that run evos stand by the quality of mishimoto save yourself 100 bucks. somebody told me koyo doesnt come with the radiator cap so if you decide to buy koyo you will have to buy the radiator cap separately whereas the mishimoto comes with a radiator cap.
instead of arp mains you can get the hr main bolts they are the equivalent in quality and can be torqued to the same ft-lbs yet only cost about 70 bucks versus 210 for the arp mains.
you probably also want to swap to a cd009 manual transmission also since your going to remove your driveshaft and transmission
can do 7200 rpm max on stock cams.
would rather save money and get mishimoto radiator instead of koyo lots of track guys that run evos stand by the quality of mishimoto save yourself 100 bucks. somebody told me koyo doesnt come with the radiator cap so if you decide to buy koyo you will have to buy the radiator cap separately whereas the mishimoto comes with a radiator cap.
instead of arp mains you can get the hr main bolts they are the equivalent in quality and can be torqued to the same ft-lbs yet only cost about 70 bucks versus 210 for the arp mains.
Don't listen to this guy buy arp's!
#11
Registered User
i run 600-700whp on de main bolts...
its the head studs that you have to worry about if anything.
Last edited by Justin100; 04-24-2016 at 04:23 PM.
#12
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Thread Starter
I plan to stick to my list unless I get some advice from some knowledgeable gurus who tell me otherwise. ARP bolts are definitely not being substituted. I've also been running my Koyo for over two years with an ARC radiator cap and I will never buy a mishimoto radiator. Just to be clear I already have some of these part installed on my car except the ones that are definitely needed for boost and the assembly of a built block
#14
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How did Koyo fit on the G35? Did you have any fitment issues in stock locations.
considering buying koyo for my 5at G35 and just want to know what i am getting into before tackling the install myself on a daily driver.
considering buying koyo for my 5at G35 and just want to know what i am getting into before tackling the install myself on a daily driver.
#15
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I actually bought the Z version of the Koyo. But still the fitment was fine. No issues at all. These are some older pics but you can see how it sits
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wow. that is one sexy and clean looking engine bay.
By any chance are you familiar if the OEM fans suppose to bolt up to koyo or is it necessary to go with aftermarket fans.
the upper points on the radiator do not seem to be sitting in stock locations. are you using the z race koyo or the v-core?
By any chance are you familiar if the OEM fans suppose to bolt up to koyo or is it necessary to go with aftermarket fans.
the upper points on the radiator do not seem to be sitting in stock locations. are you using the z race koyo or the v-core?
Last edited by myGspot; 04-26-2016 at 10:13 AM.
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how come your upper mounting points on the radiator do not sit in stock location with clips? did you do away with them for show purpose or they did not line up?
sorry to bug you with so many questions.
sorry to bug you with so many questions.
#19
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Remember I'm using a Koyo that's made for the 350Z. The mounts won't line up because the G and Z core supports are not the same
#20
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I wanted to update this. I've decided to ditch the vortech and go with the BP twin scroll turbo kit. I switched from Wiseco 11:1 to CP 8.5:1 pistons. I will be putting my vortech kit up for sale. Honestly I should've gone this route from the start.