Caseythefalcon

I have been trying to get my clutch bled. I have read that the reverse bleeding procedure is the best way. Are you required to hit a certain amount of pressure to begin this process? Because, I have tried forcing fluid through the slave bleeder and nothing goes in. I just build up tons of pressure to the point where it starts leaking out of my fitting and in between the bleeder screw and my fitting. I watch videos and they pump it right in like cake. What am I doing wrong? The clutch pedal has no pressure and falls to the floor. While attempting the procedure, do I need the reservoir cap on or off? I don't understand what I'm doing incorrect.

superlim9

Previous owner may have installed a speed bleeder in the the clutch to assist in it being a one person process. remove the bleed screw and see if it appears to be like this...


You can also try your reverse bleed just through the bleeder with the bleed screw removed to see if its plugged. Does the bleed screw look old or look like new?

Caseythefalcon

That is exactly what the bleeder screw looks like! Would that be the reason this is so difficult?

Caseythefalcon

It also has a little bit of rust build up. I haven't tried to just bleed it without the bleed screw. However, last night I finally did see small progress! I had removed the master cylinder fork from the pedal assembly and when doing so it clicked back maybe a cm at most. Before doing this, I could have the bleeder open and press the clutch pedal and no fluid would come out, after undoing that fork from the pedal, fluid now makes its way through the lines and out the system at a slow rate. Could it be my master, having junk built up behind the cylinder?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Couple of things here. First, all bleeder screws look like that, in general. What's different about the one in the pic above is that it has a one-way valve built-in, and it's not OEM. Those things really never work very well, and you probably don't have one.

Second, you can't bleed the system by reverse-flushing, pressure, or gravity, if the pedal is not fully in the in its non-depressed state. There is a fluid passage in the MC bore that has to be open for bleeding, and if the MC isn't fully extended, or if the MC and pedal aren't properly adjusted, that passage is blocked.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

I take it you never heard from Jake?

Caseythefalcon

I'm just glad I was finally able to start the bleeding process. I'm gonna get it completely bled today.

Travlee, I never did. It's all good though. I appreciate you trying to help.

Caseythefalcon

Probably going to swap out my tranny with redline as well. Just wish it was sold locally!

travlee

iTrader: (8)

if you are still having hell, you might have to swap out the master and slave. like dcains said, something may be blocked up

travlee

iTrader: (8)

call 21st century muscle cars in addison, i know they carry motul so they may have redline

Caseythefalcon

Thanks man. How does this look guys? Video below of fork movement. Tell me if y'all think that's good or if I should continue bleeding.

http://youtu.be/hqTvxIPHd4g

travlee

iTrader: (8)

start the car, push in clutch.... can you go into every gear without issues?

Caseythefalcon

Just didn't want to drop it off my stands if it wasn't enough. But I said, "hell with it" and dropped it anyways. Drove it for 30 minutes with 0 problems. Shifts much smoother. Clutch is much tighter and more effecient feeling. Also the new synthetic oil I put in dropped my pressure to right at 18 psi at idle, where it was at 30 before.