GarniZ33

I'm in need of a new ECU since my current one is on the verge of frying.

Just wanted to make sure what research I've done is correct.

I need an ECU from the same year and transmission as my Z and the 2 upper case letters have to match.
After installing new ecu, I need to take it to a Nissan dealer and have it reprogrammed.

Is that all I'd need to do basically?

pr_350z

I'd go as far as saying it must be same year(careful with a 2004.5 year model), same transmission AND same trim(base,performance,track,etc...) but always try to find the exact part number the ecu has printed on it. Yes after you get the ecu go to a locksmith or dealer who has a programming service for nissan vehicles. And as it was suggested to me always try to find and fix the problem that fried your ECU.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

call courtesy parts.... see what that say

zakmartin

Just curious... how can an ECU be on the verge of frying? It's either fried or it isn't. With the new ECU, you'll need to get your ignition system re-programmed, maybe your TPMS (assuming that's not controlled by the BCM)... a few other things will need calibration. Shouldn't be a long job if you take it to a dealer and they hook it up to their CONSULT computer.

GarniZ33

Basically, this is the issue I'm having.
My car will sometimes have like no power. I'll be driving, get on full throttle but my RPMS stick at 3,500 and don't go any higher.

I've replaced almost all the sensors that could go bad (knock sensor, crank/cam, etc), spark plugs, coil packs, rebuilt injectors, checked fuel pump, cleaned throttle body, checked all possible areas for vacuum leaks, compression tested, checked all wires to make sure everything is in good condition and in the right places, basically everything that I found could be the issue from this forum, I've done. The problem just keeps coming back. That's why I'm assuming my ECU is the culprit.

Also, had this issue before my tune I figured the car was leaning out and going into limp mode momentarily but the problem is still present post tune.

zakmartin

So you're going into limp mode. That usually means the ECU is working and it's preventing the engine from self-destructing because there's some key component failure going on. You've put a lot of money into replacing parts that were probably fine to begin with. Did you test the parts before you replaced them or are you just going down a checklist of what MIGHT be causing the problem? If I were you, I'd take a small portion of what you were about to spend on a new ECU and have the car looked at by a dealership, where they can perform a legitimate diagnosis.

Also, what exactly do you mean by "tune"? Do you have a piggyback ECM or are you just referring to scheduled preventive maintenance (i.e., change out spark plugs, filter(s), etc.)?

GarniZ33

Well, when I started changing parts it was all from check engine codes. Started off with the knock sensor code. And than it became a multiple cylinder misfire code and that's what made me start swapping things out. Misfire went away but the limp mode issue still happens.

What do you think the problem could be?

Tuned as in I was referring to my UpRev Tune.

zakmartin

I can't believe you didn't include this little nugget of info sooner. I would start with that. You might want to take it to a tuner shop to have the UpRev looked at.

What other modifications have been done to the car?

GarniZ33

I've had this issue before the tune, as stated in original post.

Mods are: JWT popcharger, MD 5/16 plenum spacer, NWP 75mm throttle body, DC headers, y pipe, test pipes, and exhaust. 4.08 gears as well.
But the issue has been present well before all these mods