Another low oil pressure thread, built motor.
08-11-2015, 06:23 AM
#21
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08-14-2015, 09:27 AM
#22
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Alright so it's a depressing day for me. Just took the car for the first test drive boosted again. The car ran great. - 20 to 10psi of boost almost instantly at 3k. And then the oil temperature raised.. As the oil temp raised the oil pressure dropped. At cold idle it was at the normal 20 psi but once the oil warmed up to about 240 degrees the pressure dropped to about 1 psi. At 4k it's only at 30 psi. It made me sick to my stomach do I brought it back home. To make matters worse the engine temp is reading over half and was fluctuating a little(most likely low on coolant). Keep in mind this is still running 10-30. So my question is what kind of oil should I try? I obviously need a thicker oil at warm operating temp. Rotella 15-40 isn't that big of a difference from what I've got in it now. So what if I tried a straight 30 or 40w oil? Plan on changing the oil tomorrow and I will report back.
08-14-2015, 12:03 PM
#23
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20w50 valvoline vr1 its worth a try ...you need oil cooler...
But like you said it might be your bearing clearances....
But like you said it might be your bearing clearances....
Last edited by wisniaPl; 08-14-2015 at 12:05 PM.
08-14-2015, 12:48 PM
#24
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Wisnia,
Thanks for all your help. I have also read that having a leak in the oil pickup tube can cause low pressure at idle. Since i have a oil pan spacer and a pickup tube spacer, this may be contributing to the issue. So tomorrow, i plan on dropping lower oil pan in early AM, putting sealant on the oil pickup spacer and putting the pan back on with valvoline 20w50. i agree on the oil cooler, wasnt sure what normal VQ oil temps were but my 240 normal operating temp seemed a bit high, even with the turbo. The car has never had any blow by until today (oil coming out of the filler cap when opened). Also can the rod bearings be changed with just dropping the oil pan with the engine still in? just lift it up with a crane so i can drop the cross member? I just want to avoid having to pull the motor for like the 4th time. Its coming easier and easier to remove and less and less parts go back on each time.. lol A/C was deleted this past go around.
Thanks for all your help. I have also read that having a leak in the oil pickup tube can cause low pressure at idle. Since i have a oil pan spacer and a pickup tube spacer, this may be contributing to the issue. So tomorrow, i plan on dropping lower oil pan in early AM, putting sealant on the oil pickup spacer and putting the pan back on with valvoline 20w50. i agree on the oil cooler, wasnt sure what normal VQ oil temps were but my 240 normal operating temp seemed a bit high, even with the turbo. The car has never had any blow by until today (oil coming out of the filler cap when opened). Also can the rod bearings be changed with just dropping the oil pan with the engine still in? just lift it up with a crane so i can drop the cross member? I just want to avoid having to pull the motor for like the 4th time. Its coming easier and easier to remove and less and less parts go back on each time.. lol A/C was deleted this past go around.
08-14-2015, 03:24 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Also my guage could be reading lower than without the turbo because i am using a oil filter sandwich for the feed line. The filter is right there at the sensor which could be causing it to read slightly lower. But nonetheless it was low before the turbo. Ill also try to relocate the sensor on the oil filter sandwich plate since its the same thread size.
08-14-2015, 07:11 PM
#27
Registered User
Dont fill oil more than half mark on the dip stick...also I would go raceparts wholesale oil cooler kit...comes with everything and its proven....When you google mishimoto oil cooler horror stories show up...
Do you have any c to release crankase pressure? "Oil leaking from the cap"
Keep us uptaded...I know my friend replaced pistons and rods on his evo without droping engine shortly after built...so i believe its possible
Do you have any c to release crankase pressure? "Oil leaking from the cap"
Keep us uptaded...I know my friend replaced pistons and rods on his evo without droping engine shortly after built...so i believe its possible
Last edited by wisniaPl; 08-14-2015 at 07:13 PM.
08-14-2015, 07:47 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Huh, i had always filled it to just below the high mark. I worked at a tire and lube shop for a couple years and that is what we were trained. Ill leave it in the middle with the new oil. Ill have to check out their oil cooler kit.
Not sure what you are asking with the crank pressure. I have a breather filter on both valve covers. no oil leaking anywhere on the motor, at every 200 mile interval oil change during the break in i would check the oil. It did not burn any oil at all.
If i have to put new bearings in it i might as well replace the oil pump.. which requires removing timing cover.. so id probably just yank the motor for the 100th time.
Not sure what you are asking with the crank pressure. I have a breather filter on both valve covers. no oil leaking anywhere on the motor, at every 200 mile interval oil change during the break in i would check the oil. It did not burn any oil at all.
If i have to put new bearings in it i might as well replace the oil pump.. which requires removing timing cover.. so id probably just yank the motor for the 100th time.
08-14-2015, 09:24 PM
#29
Registered User
Huh, i had always filled it to just below the high mark. I worked at a tire and lube shop for a couple years and that is what we were trained. Ill leave it in the middle with the new oil. Ill have to check out their oil cooler kit.
Not sure what you are asking with the crank pressure. I have a breather filter on both valve covers. no oil leaking anywhere on the motor, at every 200 mile interval oil change during the break in i would check the oil. It did not burn any oil at all.
If i have to put new bearings in it i might as well replace the oil pump.. which requires removing timing cover.. so id probably just yank the motor for the 100th time.
Not sure what you are asking with the crank pressure. I have a breather filter on both valve covers. no oil leaking anywhere on the motor, at every 200 mile interval oil change during the break in i would check the oil. It did not burn any oil at all.
If i have to put new bearings in it i might as well replace the oil pump.. which requires removing timing cover.. so id probably just yank the motor for the 100th time.
08-16-2015, 12:38 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
It's fixed
Did a few things to the car and when started cold 110 psi, warm 30 psi.
One of three things fixed the oil pressure:
1.With my obx oil pan spacer came a oil pick up tube spacer. When installed I honestly do not remember if I put a gasket on both sides or not. But when I dropped the oil pan yesterday there was no gasket. So I put sealant on it and torqued it down.
2. Put 6.5 quarts of valvoline 20w50
3.(most likely the cause) I relocated the oil pressure sensor to the oil filter sandwich plate I use for my feed line. It used to be on the block beside the filter so I plugged that hole. My guess is that there was foreign material in there blocking the pressure switch from getting an accurate reading.
So most likely I have had high oil pressure since the build and was just frightened by the false reading.. The car never acted up or had any noises.
Also the maximum oil temp dropped from 260 to 220. I'll put a oil cooler on it to try and get it lower as well.
Couldn't be happier and I appreciate everybody's input!
01-16-2019, 01:34 PM
#34
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Did a few things to the car and when started cold 110 psi, warm 30 psi.
One of three things fixed the oil pressure:
1.With my obx oil pan spacer came a oil pick up tube spacer. When installed I honestly do not remember if I put a gasket on both sides or not. But when I dropped the oil pan yesterday there was no gasket. So I put sealant on it and torqued it down.
2. Put 6.5 quarts of valvoline 20w50
3.(most likely the cause) I relocated the oil pressure sensor to the oil filter sandwich plate I use for my feed line. It used to be on the block beside the filter so I plugged that hole. My guess is that there was foreign material in there blocking the pressure switch from getting an accurate reading.
So most likely I have had high oil pressure since the build and was just frightened by the false reading.. The car never acted up or had any noises.
Also the maximum oil temp dropped from 260 to 220. I'll put a oil cooler on it to try and get it lower as well.
Couldn't be happier and I appreciate everybody's input!
dirty with old gasket maker I guess I didn’t clean the block enough... . Not too clogged to where it wouldn’t suck tho.. I’m planning on adding 20/50 and I’m praying that fixes my problem if not then pretty sure somthing else is clogged with foreign material.. if it still does it I’m gonna go cry.I’m very sick to my stomach right now since I dropped too much money on this engine.. pray for me lol
Last edited by Alex58495; 01-16-2019 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Misspelled
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