Nitrous Basics Thread, read here if you want nitrous for the first time....
09-19-2006, 07:15 PM
#1
Nitrous Basics Thread, read here if you want nitrous for the first time....
Ok, first of all would like to welcome you to the nitrous world. Nitrous is a way of making your car A LOT faster for a lot less than turbo or supercharger. BUT, first of all you need to understand how nitrous works..
Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold to increase power: even though the gas itself is not flammable, it delivers more oxygen than atmospheric air by breaking down at elevated temperatures, thus allowing the engine to burn more fuel and air. Additionally, since nitrous oxide is stored as a liquid, the evaporation of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature. This results in a denser charge, and can reduce detonation, as well as increase power available to the engine.
High Levels or HP/TQ
Nitrous when injected into your engine will create lots of HP and a crazy amount of instant torque. This torque is amazing and is relative to the RPM you hit your nitrous at. I would not recommend EVER hitting nitrous under 3000 rpms due to the fact that you can break a stock motor with the amount of tq it creates. For instance, my car dynoed 340whp and 410 ft pounds of tq on a 100 shot.
Wet vx Dry kits
Many people ask about wet and dry kits, a dry kit only adds nitrous to the motor and adds in the much needed extra fuel by opening the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, well with our cars, the fuel pressure regulator is located in the tank in the back of the car. a wet kit should not even be a question when refering to the Z or G, it is a necessity.
Jet sizing
Nitrous oxide is adjusted through jet sizing. This jet sizing is based on fuel pressure and nitrous pressure. Optimum pressure for nitrous is between 950-1050. The way to get the pressure there is to heat the bottle between 90-98 degrees F. The nitrous jets are based on this pressure to give you the hp output that they are rated at. For instance, say you are running a 100 shot but your nitrous bottle is only at 75 degrees, now you are only running a 70 shot with the fuel for a 100 shot. Bottle temperature is one of the most important things for nitrous performance..
Stock fuel pressure for the VQ is 51 psi. You can adjust your fuel jetting to get the right air/ fuel mixture with the nitrous shot size you have chosen. All of these jet sizes can be figured out with a simple call to your nitrous manufacturer. www.nitrousexpress.com www.zex.com http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Nos
Bottle Warmer
A bottle warmer is the way to heat your nitrous bottle to the correct temperature. This is a blanket or metal bands that go around the bottle and heat it up to the perferred psi you are looking to run your nitrous at.
Nitrous Pressure Gauge
A nitrous pressure gauge is used to watch the nitrous pressure as you heat the bottle up. An inexpensive one is a mechanical one (actually uses the nitrous hooked up to the gauge) but leaves more room for nitrous leaks OR and electric gauge (recommended) that ties in right by the bottle with and electric sender and sends an electric signal to the gauge. Any electric nitrous pressure gauge will work from the company of choice to match the theme of your car.
Stock fuel pressure for the VQ is 51 psi. You can adjust your fuel jetting to get the right air/ fuel mixture with the nitrous shot size you have chosen. All of these jet sizes can be figured out with a simple call to your nitrous manufacturer. www.nitrousexpress.com www.zex.com http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Nos
Remote Bottle Opener
Ok, next step, do you want to open the bottle by hand or have a switch to electronically open the bottle. A remote bottle opener is a great option to open the bottle on the fly while you are driving you car. If you dont feel like opening it by hand befiore you go for a drive, well you are going to need a Remote Bottle Opener.
Nitrous Purge System
Although the purge system looks like its all show, it does initially have a purpose. The nitrous purge will allow you to get the little bit of air out of the lines that is in there due to the lack of usage of nitrous, nitrous will slowly leak out of the lines, this is very slowly but after sitting a day or two with no use, all the nitrous leaks out. The purge can be shot out somewhere on your car and will grab everyone attention. I have never been a fan and believe that if you are worried about the split second of not having the nitrous when you first engage it, well what i do is on the way to the track, i simply hit my nitrous on the street and fill up the lines.
Safety
Safety is a very very important thing when it comes to nitrous, a few things you will need to add to the safety of your setup are..
TPS Switch
Throttle Position Sensor switch will tell your nitrous system to engage when you are at full throtlle. The best kind for our cars is a simple electronic TPS switch. This simply keeps the nitrous off until you floor the car. The basic kit comes with a mechanical TPS switch that WILL work but not as effective as an electronic one..
RPM Window Switch
A RPM window switch tells the nitrous to only turn on between certain RPMS, you can set these to start at whatever RPM you would like. I like to use 3500 to 6000 RPMs on a 03-04 VQ, a little higher on the rev ups. This give you the safety of only working when you are in the "window" of RPMs to add to the safety of your setup.
Fuel Pressure Switch
this is a simple fuel pressure switch that taps into the the fuel line and will only let the nitrous work above certain fuel pressure..
Spark Plugs
One step colder spark plugs should be used with EVERY nitrous application. This is for safety, spark plugs have two jobs, they use a spark to fire into the cylinders for combustion AND they disperse heat from the combustion chamber into the heads. Colder plugs disperse more heat out of the combustion chamber and will keep the heat levels safer under the high extreme levels that nitrous will create. This is not an option but one of the first steps you should make.
Retarded Timing
While using nitrous, there is a rule of thumb that for every 50 hp shot you are using, you should retard your timing 1.5- 2.0 degrees. Every car is different and with the VQ motor, people are safely running up to a 100 shot with no issues as of yet due to the hp. Any thing above and beyond 100 shot WILL require some timing taken out, this can be done with any of the piggy back computers but i would recommend the utec.
Turbo XS Utec
The UTEC is a great addition to any nitrous system on a Z or G. the utec will fully replace the TPS switch and the RPM window switch. it has settings to fully control the nitrous built into it using an adjustable throttle position sensor switch and an adjustable rpm window switch to fully control your nitrous needs. Another great feature of the utec is that ability to tune your car when you are not using the nitrous, people gain between 8-20 hp on a NA motor with simple mods. This extra power plus the added safety is a great addition to your Z or G...
Fuel Tap
The basic nitrous kit comes with a fuel tap that you cut your stock line and cram in the T fitting and put hose clamps on it. this system works but if you ever want to make your car stock again, you will have to replace the 100 dollar line you just cut, i recommend getting a fuel tap. this goes right on the stock fuel line and lets you tap into the fuel with no cutting. this is a much safer alternative and highly recommended, this can be added for around 50 dollars if you look at the right place
Blow Down Tube
A blow down tube is a tube that allows the nitrous to escape out of your car if there is an emergency where the bottle overheated, this is required by the NHRA on any car where the bottle is in the same compartment as the driver..
Bottle Mounting
Mounting your nitrous bottle is important due to the design of the pick up tube in the bottle. it kinda reminds me of when you look into a bottle of windex. the tube is connected to the valve on top and goes down the bottle and curves away from the label. the correct way to mount the bottle for the best pressure and to use all of your nitrous is one of two ways. you can mount the bottle straight up with the valve at the top, pretty much how it would sit on the floor if you were to set the bottle down OR to mount it using the brackets with the valve aimed at the front of the car and the bottle of the bottle aimed towards the back. the valve should be faced down if you were to open it. The bottle will sit at slight angle, i would guess about 30 degrees. Either way will allow the pickup tube to sit in the nitrous at all times until the bottle is empty.
Filling Your Nitrous Bottle
Nitrous bottle can easily be taken out of the car to be filled, most bottles are 10 pounds and will hold 6 to 10 quarter mile runs, the bigger the bottle, the more nitrous. its very simple. nitrous usually costs an average of 3 dollars a pound right now but i have seen 2 -5 dollars all over the united states.
Last i would like to add
With all of this said and done, please PM me if you have any questions or would like to know where to get any of these products at a great price!!! Hope i answered a lot of your questions. Remember, to do a nitrous system correctly, you are looking at from right over a $1000 to almost $2000 for all the goodies Good luck and have fun!!!!
Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold to increase power: even though the gas itself is not flammable, it delivers more oxygen than atmospheric air by breaking down at elevated temperatures, thus allowing the engine to burn more fuel and air. Additionally, since nitrous oxide is stored as a liquid, the evaporation of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature. This results in a denser charge, and can reduce detonation, as well as increase power available to the engine.
High Levels or HP/TQ
Nitrous when injected into your engine will create lots of HP and a crazy amount of instant torque. This torque is amazing and is relative to the RPM you hit your nitrous at. I would not recommend EVER hitting nitrous under 3000 rpms due to the fact that you can break a stock motor with the amount of tq it creates. For instance, my car dynoed 340whp and 410 ft pounds of tq on a 100 shot.
Wet vx Dry kits
Many people ask about wet and dry kits, a dry kit only adds nitrous to the motor and adds in the much needed extra fuel by opening the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, well with our cars, the fuel pressure regulator is located in the tank in the back of the car. a wet kit should not even be a question when refering to the Z or G, it is a necessity.
Jet sizing
Nitrous oxide is adjusted through jet sizing. This jet sizing is based on fuel pressure and nitrous pressure. Optimum pressure for nitrous is between 950-1050. The way to get the pressure there is to heat the bottle between 90-98 degrees F. The nitrous jets are based on this pressure to give you the hp output that they are rated at. For instance, say you are running a 100 shot but your nitrous bottle is only at 75 degrees, now you are only running a 70 shot with the fuel for a 100 shot. Bottle temperature is one of the most important things for nitrous performance..
Stock fuel pressure for the VQ is 51 psi. You can adjust your fuel jetting to get the right air/ fuel mixture with the nitrous shot size you have chosen. All of these jet sizes can be figured out with a simple call to your nitrous manufacturer. www.nitrousexpress.com www.zex.com http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Nos
Bottle Warmer
A bottle warmer is the way to heat your nitrous bottle to the correct temperature. This is a blanket or metal bands that go around the bottle and heat it up to the perferred psi you are looking to run your nitrous at.
Nitrous Pressure Gauge
A nitrous pressure gauge is used to watch the nitrous pressure as you heat the bottle up. An inexpensive one is a mechanical one (actually uses the nitrous hooked up to the gauge) but leaves more room for nitrous leaks OR and electric gauge (recommended) that ties in right by the bottle with and electric sender and sends an electric signal to the gauge. Any electric nitrous pressure gauge will work from the company of choice to match the theme of your car.
Stock fuel pressure for the VQ is 51 psi. You can adjust your fuel jetting to get the right air/ fuel mixture with the nitrous shot size you have chosen. All of these jet sizes can be figured out with a simple call to your nitrous manufacturer. www.nitrousexpress.com www.zex.com http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Nos
Remote Bottle Opener
Ok, next step, do you want to open the bottle by hand or have a switch to electronically open the bottle. A remote bottle opener is a great option to open the bottle on the fly while you are driving you car. If you dont feel like opening it by hand befiore you go for a drive, well you are going to need a Remote Bottle Opener.
Nitrous Purge System
Although the purge system looks like its all show, it does initially have a purpose. The nitrous purge will allow you to get the little bit of air out of the lines that is in there due to the lack of usage of nitrous, nitrous will slowly leak out of the lines, this is very slowly but after sitting a day or two with no use, all the nitrous leaks out. The purge can be shot out somewhere on your car and will grab everyone attention. I have never been a fan and believe that if you are worried about the split second of not having the nitrous when you first engage it, well what i do is on the way to the track, i simply hit my nitrous on the street and fill up the lines.
Safety
Safety is a very very important thing when it comes to nitrous, a few things you will need to add to the safety of your setup are..
TPS Switch
Throttle Position Sensor switch will tell your nitrous system to engage when you are at full throtlle. The best kind for our cars is a simple electronic TPS switch. This simply keeps the nitrous off until you floor the car. The basic kit comes with a mechanical TPS switch that WILL work but not as effective as an electronic one..
RPM Window Switch
A RPM window switch tells the nitrous to only turn on between certain RPMS, you can set these to start at whatever RPM you would like. I like to use 3500 to 6000 RPMs on a 03-04 VQ, a little higher on the rev ups. This give you the safety of only working when you are in the "window" of RPMs to add to the safety of your setup.
Fuel Pressure Switch
this is a simple fuel pressure switch that taps into the the fuel line and will only let the nitrous work above certain fuel pressure..
Spark Plugs
One step colder spark plugs should be used with EVERY nitrous application. This is for safety, spark plugs have two jobs, they use a spark to fire into the cylinders for combustion AND they disperse heat from the combustion chamber into the heads. Colder plugs disperse more heat out of the combustion chamber and will keep the heat levels safer under the high extreme levels that nitrous will create. This is not an option but one of the first steps you should make.
Retarded Timing
While using nitrous, there is a rule of thumb that for every 50 hp shot you are using, you should retard your timing 1.5- 2.0 degrees. Every car is different and with the VQ motor, people are safely running up to a 100 shot with no issues as of yet due to the hp. Any thing above and beyond 100 shot WILL require some timing taken out, this can be done with any of the piggy back computers but i would recommend the utec.
Turbo XS Utec
The UTEC is a great addition to any nitrous system on a Z or G. the utec will fully replace the TPS switch and the RPM window switch. it has settings to fully control the nitrous built into it using an adjustable throttle position sensor switch and an adjustable rpm window switch to fully control your nitrous needs. Another great feature of the utec is that ability to tune your car when you are not using the nitrous, people gain between 8-20 hp on a NA motor with simple mods. This extra power plus the added safety is a great addition to your Z or G...
Fuel Tap
The basic nitrous kit comes with a fuel tap that you cut your stock line and cram in the T fitting and put hose clamps on it. this system works but if you ever want to make your car stock again, you will have to replace the 100 dollar line you just cut, i recommend getting a fuel tap. this goes right on the stock fuel line and lets you tap into the fuel with no cutting. this is a much safer alternative and highly recommended, this can be added for around 50 dollars if you look at the right place
Blow Down Tube
A blow down tube is a tube that allows the nitrous to escape out of your car if there is an emergency where the bottle overheated, this is required by the NHRA on any car where the bottle is in the same compartment as the driver..
Bottle Mounting
Mounting your nitrous bottle is important due to the design of the pick up tube in the bottle. it kinda reminds me of when you look into a bottle of windex. the tube is connected to the valve on top and goes down the bottle and curves away from the label. the correct way to mount the bottle for the best pressure and to use all of your nitrous is one of two ways. you can mount the bottle straight up with the valve at the top, pretty much how it would sit on the floor if you were to set the bottle down OR to mount it using the brackets with the valve aimed at the front of the car and the bottle of the bottle aimed towards the back. the valve should be faced down if you were to open it. The bottle will sit at slight angle, i would guess about 30 degrees. Either way will allow the pickup tube to sit in the nitrous at all times until the bottle is empty.
Filling Your Nitrous Bottle
Nitrous bottle can easily be taken out of the car to be filled, most bottles are 10 pounds and will hold 6 to 10 quarter mile runs, the bigger the bottle, the more nitrous. its very simple. nitrous usually costs an average of 3 dollars a pound right now but i have seen 2 -5 dollars all over the united states.
Last i would like to add
With all of this said and done, please PM me if you have any questions or would like to know where to get any of these products at a great price!!!
Hope i answered a lot of your questions. Remember, to do a nitrous system correctly, you are looking at from right over a $1000 to almost $2000 for all the goodies Good luck and have fun!!!!
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; 09-22-2006 at 04:53 AM.
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Grandpa Yeti (02-09-2017)
09-19-2006, 07:56 PM
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Jeremy...that post was great! I can't wait to get my Nitrous installed by you. Thinking about omitting the TPS switch and window switch and just going with the Utec. So I want the NX 100 hp shot kit, Utec programmed, and then should I dyno to make sure air/fuel is looking good, or will Utec be enough?
Thanks!
Thanks!
09-20-2006, 06:04 AM
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Great post. Only a few things I would add:
Spark Plugs
I recomend getting 1 step colder plugs for anything over a 75 shot. Platinum plugs should not be used, the best bet is NGK copper plugs one step colder than stock.
Nitrous Pressure
A nitrous pressure gauge should be used to monitor bottle pressure. This will ensure your system is spraying at the full potential and will also ensure the bottle pressure is not too high so that it becomes unsafe. 900-1000 psi is ideal. Anything under 800psi your nitrous becomes dramatically less effective. You cna mount the gauge on the bottle, but I recomend mounting it somewhere more visable.
Bottle Heater
This is a great way to warm your bottle and increase bottle pressure. While this is not necesary, it is nice for those of you who plan to track the car and want the bottle pressure optimal for your runs. Most now come with a saftey that will not allow the warmer to work if it is over 85 degrees. This can be removed for those who desire higher temps and more pressure, but if you leave it on and the bottle pressure gets too high, you might have a problem.
Purge
While it does look cool, a purge does have a real purpose. The purge allows you to remove the air from the line prior to spraying. This ensures that you are getting the best possible spray of nitrous from the bottle.
Bottle fills
Look to spend $25-$35 for a 10lbs bottle fill at most shops. The price varies from area to area, but this is pretty standard.
Notes
Get dynoed once your install is complete to verify AF ratios are safe then go spray the hell out of your car and have a great time.
Spark Plugs
I recomend getting 1 step colder plugs for anything over a 75 shot. Platinum plugs should not be used, the best bet is NGK copper plugs one step colder than stock.
Nitrous Pressure
A nitrous pressure gauge should be used to monitor bottle pressure. This will ensure your system is spraying at the full potential and will also ensure the bottle pressure is not too high so that it becomes unsafe. 900-1000 psi is ideal. Anything under 800psi your nitrous becomes dramatically less effective. You cna mount the gauge on the bottle, but I recomend mounting it somewhere more visable.
Bottle Heater
This is a great way to warm your bottle and increase bottle pressure. While this is not necesary, it is nice for those of you who plan to track the car and want the bottle pressure optimal for your runs. Most now come with a saftey that will not allow the warmer to work if it is over 85 degrees. This can be removed for those who desire higher temps and more pressure, but if you leave it on and the bottle pressure gets too high, you might have a problem.
Purge
While it does look cool, a purge does have a real purpose. The purge allows you to remove the air from the line prior to spraying. This ensures that you are getting the best possible spray of nitrous from the bottle.
Bottle fills
Look to spend $25-$35 for a 10lbs bottle fill at most shops. The price varies from area to area, but this is pretty standard.
Notes
Get dynoed once your install is complete to verify AF ratios are safe then go spray the hell out of your car and have a great time.
09-20-2006, 08:07 AM
#4
great rico, yeah it was late last night after a hard day of work, hard to remember everything, i was going to keep going back and add stuff as i thought of it, i get a lot of pms everyday and type the same exact thing on them. so i figured i would save a step...
09-20-2006, 08:13 AM
#5
hatersgonnahate
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about the 51 psi for the fuel pressure, isnt that just at idle?
maybe also mention something about bottle mounting, legal issues and wear/tear due to hp/tq spike. Even add where to tap the tps and rpm signal (either pin number or location)
good info, def would help the nitrous section.
also, i tend to direct people inquiring about nitrous to your pm box audible, my bad.
maybe also mention something about bottle mounting, legal issues and wear/tear due to hp/tq spike. Even add where to tap the tps and rpm signal (either pin number or location)
good info, def would help the nitrous section.
also, i tend to direct people inquiring about nitrous to your pm box audible, my bad.
09-21-2006, 01:34 PM
#7
I plan on running a 100shot NX Wet kit. My question is regarding gauges. I just installed a Walbro 255 fuel pump. I plan on getting an A-pillar triple gauge pod. I was going to run with Nitrous Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and wideband A/R ratio. Are these good choices or is there something else I should run in terms of gauges?
-Acree
-Acree
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09-21-2006, 03:25 PM
#9
hatersgonnahate
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
no, it should be pretty stable. the fuel prssure usually fluctuates a bit 48-56 is what I usually see during daily driving.
ok, i guess i misunderstood the service manual.
"At idling: Approximately 350 kPa (3.57 kg/cm2 , 51 psi)"
figured the pressure varied after idle.
09-22-2006, 05:28 AM
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Acree, Nitrous Pressure and Wideband for sure...then 3rd gauge can be up for discussion. Fuel Pressure is a good gauge to have, but not 100% necessary with a 100 shot, but it you have room for it in the car and the wallet, do it up. You can never be to safe.
Motormouth, you can get a time delay so the nitrous is delayed for a certain number of seconds or you can get a progressive controller so the nitrous comes on slowly so its at maximum when you have better traction. To completely shut out a gear, you could prob do this with a stand alone em like Utec....which I plan on getting realtively soon.
Motormouth, you can get a time delay so the nitrous is delayed for a certain number of seconds or you can get a progressive controller so the nitrous comes on slowly so its at maximum when you have better traction. To completely shut out a gear, you could prob do this with a stand alone em like Utec....which I plan on getting realtively soon.
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Nick Pieroni (02-02-2020)
09-22-2006, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by CUxtopher
sharif you ever hook one up to nitrous and use it as the window and tps switches?
pm price for something like that, utec, install and tuned with nitrous.
THEN SHARIF SAID THIS...
"This is my opinion, and only my opinion. I would prefer to use a dedicated, and more customizable window switch, and nitrous control/delivery mechanism. We havent tried using it with the UTEC, but it does have a spare soleniod switch. I just feel there are better options for controlling nitrous. The UTEC excels in complete fuel and timing control, with knock feedback."
sharif you ever hook one up to nitrous and use it as the window and tps switches?
pm price for something like that, utec, install and tuned with nitrous.
THEN SHARIF SAID THIS...
"This is my opinion, and only my opinion. I would prefer to use a dedicated, and more customizable window switch, and nitrous control/delivery mechanism. We havent tried using it with the UTEC, but it does have a spare soleniod switch. I just feel there are better options for controlling nitrous. The UTEC excels in complete fuel and timing control, with knock feedback."
09-22-2006, 09:38 AM
#14
i dont see how you could have a more customizable window switch. i mean another option would be to use a nitrous contoller, like a maximizer, but, with the utec, you can tune more hp out of your car ALL the time.
i mean, the perfect solution would be to run a utec and a maximizer, but this will really start adding up to a lot of money...
i mean, the perfect solution would be to run a utec and a maximizer, but this will really start adding up to a lot of money...
09-22-2006, 11:09 AM
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Shift_Boost
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Originally Posted by Motormouth
Is it possible to have it so the nitrous does not activate in 1st gear even at WOT? if so, what is the switch or hardware needed for this?
(great post by the way!)
(great post by the way!)
Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
i dont see how you could have a more customizable window switch. i mean another option would be to use a nitrous contoller, like a maximizer, but, with the utec, you can tune more hp out of your car ALL the time.
i mean, the perfect solution would be to run a utec and a maximizer, but this will really start adding up to a lot of money...
i mean, the perfect solution would be to run a utec and a maximizer, but this will really start adding up to a lot of money...
DynoTune makes a windows/TPS switch (I think Zex buys the same one, slaps their name on it, and sells it for more) that lets you lock 1st..or 2nd if you want too. They call it "gear lock out", but that is misleading. How it really works is like this.....You tell the window switch how many times you want to pass the DEACTIVATION point before it starts spraying.
So lets say you set the window switch to start at 3500rpms and shut off at 6300rpms. When you're sitting at the christmas tree at the track, you launch your car with the nitrous switch activated and one gear locked out on the window switch. Once you launch the nitrous WILL NOT activate until you pass 6300rpms and then drop your Rs. So you go all the way though 1st without nitrous, you slam 2nd....the Rs drop back down past 6300rpms and the nitrous starts. Pretty nifty at the track, but not recommended on the street for one reason - if you want to run a guy on the street and have this feature active....you're in 2nd and you flip the switch and mash the gas....the nitrous will not spray until you pass the deactivation point and then drop your Rs before it will spray.....so you'd only spray in 3rd. So really, its not a gear lock out....just a delay relative to your RPMS. I bought this unit and am running it now. I will still run this unit with the UTEC in for the gear lockout feature at the track. Best part is, its only $150.
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Nick Pieroni (02-02-2020)
09-22-2006, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by woodstock300s
any issues with passing inspection with a nitrous kit installed?
ps, im in nyc
ps, im in nyc
inspection laws vary by state, but I'd cover the bottle and you should be ok. IF you solenoids are exposed, throw some electrical tape around then for the day and take it in. Nitrous is for off-road use only....
09-22-2006, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Old School
This is for both of you guys since no one mentioned it before.
DynoTune makes a windows/TPS switch (I think Zex buys the same one, slaps their name on it, and sells it for more) that lets you lock 1st..or 2nd if you want too. They call it "gear lock out", but that is misleading. How it really works is like this.....You tell the window switch how many times you want to pass the DEACTIVATION point before it starts spraying.
So lets say you set the window switch to start at 3500rpms and shut off at 6300rpms. When you're sitting at the christmas tree at the track, you launch your car with the nitrous switch activated and one gear locked out on the window switch. Once you launch the nitrous WILL NOT activate until you pass 6300rpms and then drop your Rs. So you go all the way though 1st without nitrous, you slam 2nd....the Rs drop back down past 6300rpms and the nitrous starts. Pretty nifty at the track, but not recommended on the street for one reason - if you want to run a guy on the street and have this feature active....you're in 2nd and you flip the switch and mash the gas....the nitrous will not spray until you pass the deactivation point and then drop your Rs before it will spray.....so you'd only spray in 3rd. So really, its not a gear lock out....just a delay relative to your RPMS. I bought this unit and am running it now. I will still run this unit with the UTEC in for the gear lockout feature at the track. Best part is, its only $150.
DynoTune makes a windows/TPS switch (I think Zex buys the same one, slaps their name on it, and sells it for more) that lets you lock 1st..or 2nd if you want too. They call it "gear lock out", but that is misleading. How it really works is like this.....You tell the window switch how many times you want to pass the DEACTIVATION point before it starts spraying.
So lets say you set the window switch to start at 3500rpms and shut off at 6300rpms. When you're sitting at the christmas tree at the track, you launch your car with the nitrous switch activated and one gear locked out on the window switch. Once you launch the nitrous WILL NOT activate until you pass 6300rpms and then drop your Rs. So you go all the way though 1st without nitrous, you slam 2nd....the Rs drop back down past 6300rpms and the nitrous starts. Pretty nifty at the track, but not recommended on the street for one reason - if you want to run a guy on the street and have this feature active....you're in 2nd and you flip the switch and mash the gas....the nitrous will not spray until you pass the deactivation point and then drop your Rs before it will spray.....so you'd only spray in 3rd. So really, its not a gear lock out....just a delay relative to your RPMS. I bought this unit and am running it now. I will still run this unit with the UTEC in for the gear lockout feature at the track. Best part is, its only $150.
Awesome post. So does this solve or improve traction problems due to nitrous at the track?
09-22-2006, 12:51 PM
#20
Shift_Boost
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Originally Posted by ZLadie2000
Oh what about traction issues? do we need diff tires? with say a 100 shot?
I just bought new tires....the factor Potenzas blow. I spun the sh*t out of them with just a 75 shot. They WERE a little worn though.
I put BFG G-force KDW-2s on for the street (went up to 255/40/18s for the back)....buying some different tires for the track....now all I need is another set of rims...grrrrrrrr.