Winterizing The Z
Im in Chicago and i plan on driving my Z as long as i can untill a forecast for snow is a day away, then i will be taking it to indiana for storage at a close freind of mines wherehouse, what needs to bee done in preperation for storage, removing the battery etc ?????
I would leave the battery in and run it periodically. It's not good to let the car sit for 4 months or more as the oil settles in the oil pan. This leaves internal surfaces unprotected resulting in rust and corrosion. Better to start the car and run it for 10 - 15 minutes every 2 weeks or so. This will also keep the battery charged. I'd also run the tank to near empty and fill it full with fresh gas before putting it up for the winter.
I owned two 300 TTs in Chicago and Boston and found this worked fine. In fact I had over 120,000 miles on my first Z and it was running strong after 9 winters - until it was stolen that is. This approach also eliminated the need for pulling the battery, putting on stands, etc as I've seen many others advocate. And first thing in the spring you can just drive her off and have fun!
joe
I owned two 300 TTs in Chicago and Boston and found this worked fine. In fact I had over 120,000 miles on my first Z and it was running strong after 9 winters - until it was stolen that is. This approach also eliminated the need for pulling the battery, putting on stands, etc as I've seen many others advocate. And first thing in the spring you can just drive her off and have fun!
joe
Originally posted by ZMNZ
put her on jack stands as well.
put her on jack stands as well.
joe
I live a little north of you up in Wisconsin. Here is what I did. I have used a similar procedure on my bike (‘85 Ninja 900) since purchasing it new and it’s still running strong. I also did a google search on winter car storage and combined often used and recommended practices from several other forums.
Add proper quantity of Stabil, fill fuel tank with fresh gas. Run a little to get the stabil treated gas throughout the system. (on the bike, I drain the carbs)
Detail/Clean the car.
Change Oil and filter.
Pull spark plugs put marine storage seal (fogging oil) in each cylinder and turn over starter to rust protect and lube cylinder walls. Replace plugs. (15-21 ft-lbs torque)
Set all interior controls to recirculate and put moisture control/absorption material on a towel in the interior. (Towel to prevent any stains)
Put large sheet of plastic under the car to reduce moisture. Put mothballs on the plastic to ward off any vermin that might make their way into the garage.
Use some small wood shims under the wiper blades to hold them off of the glass.
Remove battery and store off of concrete. Maintenance charge the battery monthly while in storage. (Remove with doors open due to the automatic window lowering)
Inflate tires to about 50psi (Max on tire sidewall). I will move the car a couple of feet every few weeks to avoid tire flat spots. Do not put up on jack stands, this will allow the suspension to stretch.
Cover the car.
Add proper quantity of Stabil, fill fuel tank with fresh gas. Run a little to get the stabil treated gas throughout the system. (on the bike, I drain the carbs)
Detail/Clean the car.
Change Oil and filter.
Pull spark plugs put marine storage seal (fogging oil) in each cylinder and turn over starter to rust protect and lube cylinder walls. Replace plugs. (15-21 ft-lbs torque)
Set all interior controls to recirculate and put moisture control/absorption material on a towel in the interior. (Towel to prevent any stains)
Put large sheet of plastic under the car to reduce moisture. Put mothballs on the plastic to ward off any vermin that might make their way into the garage.
Use some small wood shims under the wiper blades to hold them off of the glass.
Remove battery and store off of concrete. Maintenance charge the battery monthly while in storage. (Remove with doors open due to the automatic window lowering)
Inflate tires to about 50psi (Max on tire sidewall). I will move the car a couple of feet every few weeks to avoid tire flat spots. Do not put up on jack stands, this will allow the suspension to stretch.
Cover the car.
Clean car thoroughly including bottom spray wash
Wax
Add fuel stabilant
Fill with 93 octane
Park on plastic
Car Cover
Make sure your storage bay is locked good.
Pick it up in spring.
Maybe a couple short jonts on really nice days to keep the juices flowing.
I think the engine fogging would be a good ideal but by the time I got 6 plugs out of the Z got it lubed spring would already be here.
Also I'll opt to leave the old oil in for winter and change it when it comes out of hybernation since it will get contaminated over winter any way.
Wax
Add fuel stabilant
Fill with 93 octane
Park on plastic
Car Cover
Make sure your storage bay is locked good.
Pick it up in spring.
Maybe a couple short jonts on really nice days to keep the juices flowing.
I think the engine fogging would be a good ideal but by the time I got 6 plugs out of the Z got it lubed spring would already be here.
Also I'll opt to leave the old oil in for winter and change it when it comes out of hybernation since it will get contaminated over winter any way.
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For general seasonal storage, this really works guys!
Winter Storage......
I have been protecting my Zs from the harsh winters in the northeast for over 25 years now. Here is z-car winter storage info for those of us who must put our Zs to sleep for the winter:
1) Wash, wax, vacuum, treat rubber seals.
2) Change oil/filter. Check all fluids.
3) Fill gas tank.
4) Park INSIDE in a dry garage.
5) Park on a moisture barrier such as a plastic tarp or plywood. DO NOT use carpeting as it holds moisture.
6) Put gas stabilizer in the tank, follow manufacturers directions.
7) Check air pressure in tires. Lower windows an inch or so to allow air circulation inside the car.
8) Remove battery; place indoors such as in your basement on a block of wood.
NOTE!!!! On the 350z lower windows an inch or so BEFORE disconnecting battery to prevent damage with the auto-lowering window system! Windows should be left open a bit to let air circulate in the interior anyway.
9) Cover car with a good car cover (soft underside) to keep off dust, animals, etc. and protect the finish.
IF YOU MUST START THE CAR DURING STORAGE:
- Let the car reach normal operating temperature, and then some!
- Drive the car a couple of miles when the roads are dry. This will burn off all condensation in the exhaust system, block and manifolds. It will also burn off all fuel and not let it possibly contaminate the oil. The coolant will also fully circulate through the block to prevent corrosion.
- IF YOU DO THIS, the gas will have to be re-stabilized and the battery removed again.
My Zs have hibernated for many a winter without being started for up to 4 months with no ill effects.
DO NOT put the car "up on blocks" to save "flat spots" on the tires. The suspension must be supported or bear weight to prevent warpage and stress on key suspension parts. Modern radial tires can sit idle for months without problems.
In conclusion, keep the car DRY, keep moving parts LUBRICATED and keep rubber parts PLIABLE. It may seem like a chore, but your Z will be very happy for years!
ZCAR NUT
Winter Storage......
I have been protecting my Zs from the harsh winters in the northeast for over 25 years now. Here is z-car winter storage info for those of us who must put our Zs to sleep for the winter:
1) Wash, wax, vacuum, treat rubber seals.
2) Change oil/filter. Check all fluids.
3) Fill gas tank.
4) Park INSIDE in a dry garage.
5) Park on a moisture barrier such as a plastic tarp or plywood. DO NOT use carpeting as it holds moisture.
6) Put gas stabilizer in the tank, follow manufacturers directions.
7) Check air pressure in tires. Lower windows an inch or so to allow air circulation inside the car.
8) Remove battery; place indoors such as in your basement on a block of wood.
NOTE!!!! On the 350z lower windows an inch or so BEFORE disconnecting battery to prevent damage with the auto-lowering window system! Windows should be left open a bit to let air circulate in the interior anyway.
9) Cover car with a good car cover (soft underside) to keep off dust, animals, etc. and protect the finish.
IF YOU MUST START THE CAR DURING STORAGE:
- Let the car reach normal operating temperature, and then some!
- Drive the car a couple of miles when the roads are dry. This will burn off all condensation in the exhaust system, block and manifolds. It will also burn off all fuel and not let it possibly contaminate the oil. The coolant will also fully circulate through the block to prevent corrosion.
- IF YOU DO THIS, the gas will have to be re-stabilized and the battery removed again.
My Zs have hibernated for many a winter without being started for up to 4 months with no ill effects.
DO NOT put the car "up on blocks" to save "flat spots" on the tires. The suspension must be supported or bear weight to prevent warpage and stress on key suspension parts. Modern radial tires can sit idle for months without problems.
In conclusion, keep the car DRY, keep moving parts LUBRICATED and keep rubber parts PLIABLE. It may seem like a chore, but your Z will be very happy for years!
ZCAR NUT
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