OK guys. This question is for all those who know about the stereo. I plan on getting an Enthusiast model and scrapping the speakers in favor of a custom system. Here are my questions:

1. Does anyone know how many speakers, where they are located, and what type (mids, tweeters, woofers, etc..) are in the new Z?

-I need to plan ahead to get everything bought and together

2. What amps do you guys recommend for a "clean" high-end? I listen to mainly techno/trance and want tight bass and crisp highs. (Nakamichi PA-2004 100x4-channel Amplifier ??)


I had Boston Acoustic speakers (mids and highs) in my 91 Z and they sounded INCREDIBLE. Highly recommended. I will be outfitting my Z with those again, and a 10" subwoofer where the Bose is in the touring (behind the driver's seat). Thanks everyone


Gish

 

I just ordered the track model, however it 240w is not available ~
is it an in dash 6cd or single cd? wut should i do, if i want to change the audio system~ do i have to change the whole head unit? where can i can ppl to install the new sound system?

 

The track contains a single CD most likely because Nissan wanted to keep the weight down on the track model which sounds right to me.

 

I like the look of the factory head unit not to mention hating to get rid of a brand new payer. Can we get good sound out of the head unit if we replace all speakers, add sub or 2 and some clean amps? Also how many subs are ideal? I got the track and don't want to add too much weight. I like good clean sound.

 

The answer is probably yes, you can get excellent sound using the factory head unit with aftermarket amps, speakers, sub.

There was a post in another stereo thread stating that the sound from the factory head unit may be degraded if it does not have RCA outputs, i.e., if you have to splice the speaker wires to send the signal to the amp.

According to Bose, the correct sub would be one 10" behind the driver's seat. I'm sure this would be plenty, although if you can get a 12" sub in there it may help.

Weight??? Well, it won't add that much. Who cares anyway when it's easily less than 50 pounds for amps and sub.

My track will get the amps from a car I had that was totaled. I have a 12" sub and I hope it will fit. Speakers will be MB Quart RSB218 components in front. They will be bi-amp'ed so that the tweeters have their own seperate channel and power from the amp. This will make it a seven channel system and the tweets will be awesome. Rear speakers are to be determined. I have Boston Accoustic RM9 for the rear but they are 6 x 9 so I will have to get something else.

Good luck with your stereo plans.

If anybody has any suggestions on what I can do with my Track model's stereo, please advise here or email me.

My current donor equipment is:
Alpine 357 5-channel amp
Orion amp for subs (not sure of the model but it's about 100 watts)
MB Quart RSB218 front components (6 inch mid and a tweeter with an awesome crossover)
Boston RM-9 6x9 two ways
JL Audio 12w0 sub

I still have the Alpine AI-net head unit and 6 disc changer but I don't want to use these since I will be using the stock head unit.

 

I dissagree. I think the first thing you need to replace is the head unit. You can put the best quality stuff in your car all you want but the source unit is what feeds all this equipment. Your whole system can only sound as good as your source. My friends VW with a bose system sound 10X better with his after market head unit. It could still sound another 10X bette with amps and speakers...but...some people arn't into car audio as much as i am.

Here's what i'm planning for my Z:

Head Unit:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P940MP
or
Alpine CDA-7995

Amps:
All JL or All Phoenix Gold ZX series

Front Speakers:
MB Quart QSD 6.5" componets (1" Tweeter for the A Pillars)
(already purchased)

Rear Fill:
MB Quart QSD 6.5 woofer

Sub:
Image Dynamics IDMax or JL W7 (single 12 or two 10s"

I can't wait

Here's my current system in my Dodge Avenger:
Head Unit
Pioneer Premier DEH-P900R

Amps
Phoenix Gold ZX475ti Powering Front and Rear 75 Watts x 4
Phoenix Gold ZX600ti Powering Subs 600+ Watts x 1

Front Speakers:
Diamond Audio HEX 6.5" Componets

Rear
Kicker 6x9s

Subs:
2 12" Image Dynamic IDQs



-------------------------
I have experiance with a wide range of equipment from vendors such as Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, Eclipse, MB Quart, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Diamond Audio, etc....if you have any questions ask....

-Andrew

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by blueshift
-------------------
I have experiance with a wide range of equipment from vendors such as Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, Eclipse, MB Quart, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Diamond Audio, etc....if you have any questions ask....

Thanks, how much $ are we talking about for your Z system including professional instillation?

 

Well....first things first....DON'T PAY RETAIL....Car Audio is marked up as much as 100% often times....the internet is your friend and you can find some great deals...I'll put best prices i've seen on the net thus far...

Head Unit:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P940MP ($550)
or
Alpine CDA-7995 ($405)

Amps:
All JL or All Phoenix Gold ZX series ($400-$500 each...I'll need two amps so lets say $800) I already own two ZX amps and may use them...

Front Speakers:
MB Quart QSD 6.5" componets (1" Tweeter for the A Pillars)
(already purchased) ($560)

Rear Fill:
MB Quart QSD 6.5 woofer (I havn't priced yet...I'd assume $250)

Sub:
Image Dynamics IDMax or JL W7 (single 12 or two 10s" )
$250-$500 depending if i get one or two subs..

Installation varies greatly depending how custom you want the job....or if you just want is all bolted to what's currently there... I'm not sure what i'm going to do exactly yet so I'd say anywhere from $400-$800 if i pay a shop to do it all.

So we have a range of $2000 - $3000 for everything.
Now you see why i didn't buy the NAV

-Andrew

 

I'm with blueshift on the HU (Although not the brands) - definitely the HU will give you the biggest gains right out of the box. Your only as good as your weakest link and anything downstream of the weakest link will show the problems 10 fold. What does this mean, if your going to slack, slack in the speakers.

You can easily replace the 350Z with just a few choice components and make the system sound incredible. Here's an example build that will be crystal clear and rock even the stock bose system. HU: Nakamichi CD-45Z ($300). Amp: PPI PCX 2200 2channel 200 watt amp ($300). Speakers: Boston Pro 6.5s ($400), rear speakers either remove or just use stock for rear fill (rear fill is way overrated and in the Z would be basically pointless). For $1000 you'll have an incredible sounding system and add another $600 or so for an ID MAX 10 and a PPI monoblock amp and you'll be set.

Now obviously you can choose your own components, I just picked brands that I like. Keep in mind that the $300 Nak HU I choose is just a CD player/reciever, no dvd, mp3 capabilities, it's all about SQ not options. Here's some quick brands that I like,

Head Units:
Eclipse
Clarion (Pro line only)
Nakamachi

Speakers:
Boston Acoustics
MB Quartz
Rainbow
xtant

Subs:
xtant
Image Dynamics
Rainbow

Amps:
McIntosh
xtant
Arc Aduio
Precision Power (PPI)
Phoenix Gold

 

Sorry, but I disagree, the speakers are always the weakest link in a factory system.

 

Wow. There is some really awful advice floating around.

Speakers are always your weakest link. Don't believe me? Go hook up a discman to a nice quality $3000-5000 home stereo system. What's that you say? Sounds good? From a $39 source?

Your speakers are ALWAYS the determining factor in how a system will sound. Typically stock speakers cost the manufactuer somewhere around $5-20 a pair. Do you honestly think you'll gain a lot by mating a $200 head unit to these?

RCA outs make a big difference. However, there is nothing wrong with using a line level converter, or buying an amplifier with speaker-level inputs. This will allow you to keep your stock head unit and retain the original design of the dash, etc. There is a lot to be said for that. Unless ultimate sound quality is your goal, don't sweat the stock head unit. And if it IS your goal, certainly you would replace everything.

It gets progressively EASIER to reproduce sound as you move up the signal chain. You can buy an FM tuner for $3.99 and it has the potential to be a GREAT line level source. It takes a little more $$ and technology to amplify that source, and then again, a little more than that to accurately reproduce it at the speakers.

 

I think some of us are on the wrong page. Don't get me wrong, replacing the HU alone will get no gains, but if I were to choose to spend an extra $300 on a HU over $300 on aftermarket speakers I'd spend it on the HU (or amp).

Just to play the other side of the fence, you could spend $5000 on some Rainbow speakers and they won't gain anything off the stock HU which typically have ****-poor internal amps.

A set of $300 components (say Boston Rallys) and a $600 HU will go farther then a $100 HU and a $800 component set (say Boston 6.5.3s).

What I stated above was only for replacing the whole system, not just upgrading only one thing. I've seen people with the best damn speakers and they sound like garbage because either they are not amped properly (if at all) or have a shitty HU. My Boston Pros in my Honda sounded like crap off of my Nakamichi HU but when amped they sound amazing. A friend has the same setup but with Rally components and it sounds better off of HU power then mine did off of HU power, yet I have way better speakers. Now that both of us have the same amp, you can really tell the difference in speaker quality (Nak CD-45Z, PPI Powerclass 4400 amp).

 

I plan on keeping the factory HU.... because in my opinion the source is very important in home audio, but in car audio what makes a head unit good?..... most have the same quality sound since you are not using the HU's amp. ( unless you go with Eclipse or Alpine F1. plus will have good stock look. My old mr2 has a Pioneer P1-R

I plan to use 3 Xtant Amps for front stage, rear stage and subs. ( Xtant and McIntosh can use high level inputs)

2 11" focal subs in a sealed plexy and fiberglass box underneath the strut tower bar.

6.5 inch focal front and rear ( maybe custom kicks in front for 6.5 midbass and 4 inch vocal

infinity emit tweets in the corners of the window or possibly inside a vent

plus a 8 track in one of those nifty compartments in the back

 

I've posted this before, but you should always replace stuff outside-in. That is, first speakers, then amp, then head unit. Speakers are by far the most important part of any sound system, period. There is really little contention over this point. That's why for audiophile systems, speakers are always the most expensive part.

In terms of speaker sizes, I just posted them on this other thread here:

- Two 1.5" tweeters mounted in the A-pillars
- Two 6.5" speakers mounted in the front doors
- Two 6.5" speakers mounted in the rear, behind seats
- One 10" sub behind driver's seat (Bose only)

Ok, but that's apples and oranges. You should not be using a head unit's built-in amp if you want good sound. Heck, high-end head units don't even have amps, just preamp outs.

If you have $1000, I guarantee you'll get the absolute best results w/ $500 speakers, a $300 amp, and a $200 head unit. The head unit is the least important part, by far.

People interested in upgrading their systems should spend some time at www.caraudioforum.com

 

Firstly, speakers are most important.

Secondly, there are two compartments, so I'm putting in dual 8-tracks.

 

if ur goin to upgrade ur stereo system, u might as well upgrade the HU too. it'll look way better den da stock one and plus it'll have better quality. i cant wait till i start doin dis on prolly thanksgivin..whoo hoo

 

Cadence (see my other thread) and JL are widely lauded on www.caraudioforum.com. I've heard the JL's on several occassions, they seem clean enough. Cadence are supposedly just as good but cheaper.

Remember that us non-touring riff-raff do NOT get the sub enclosure behind the seat, just a blank panel. Kinda sucks.

Anyways, you're probably better off getting something like a 10" Adire Brahma and putting it in a small angled box in the hatch, facing backwards.

 

i use the combo of focal drivers and xtant amps

very clean sound and tight tight bass

image dynamics are also very good bang for the buck

 

If anyone is intersted, blueshift knows what hes talking about.

 

I'm interested heh....

Well we can all disagree a bit about what to change and in what order....heck the fun of customizing your car is that everyone does it differently....

-Andrew