Okay. So this is my first sports car. This is the first car I've had where I want to keep it clean and change my own oil.

I am still in the break-in period and based on "most" recommendations I will change the oil (still mineral) at 1200-1500 miles. Then probably go another 2000 miles give or take, then switch to full synthetic - most likely Mobil 1.

So, seeing as how I have never changed my own oil before, what equipment do I need to buy? Specifically, I guess I am asking since this is a sports car, should I be looking at a jack and jack stands as opposed to ramps? I would think so. If that is the case, any recommendations or words of advice on those?

I guess I need to get a fairly large drain pan, and some kind of sealable bucket for the drained oil. Do I need to get any kind of special wrench for removing/inserting oil filters? Never done that either.

As much info and advice you can give me will be great.

My plan is to try and get either a buddy or a family member over to my house that has done this before when I am doing this the first time. I will be doing it either in my garage or on the fairly flat driveway.

Thanks!!

 

Sorry I don't have an answer, but more of an addition to your question for the knowledgeable out there. I will be getting my Z in a couple of months and I also plan on changing my own oil. Does the Z have the unibody construction, with the crimp points for jacking on the underside, like the Maxima and Sentra? If so, how do I use my shop jack and stands to get the car up? On my Maxima, I had to bring it in to a lift to get it off the ground, because I didn't know where to put the jack, without putting it right through the floor of the car. Putting it on the crimp point doesn't work, since you then have no place to put the jack stand. Any help would be appreciated.

One more question, Is there any benefit to changing the oil VERY early, like 50-100 miles, to get the initial bunch of metal bits out, then letting it go to the original oil change schedule?

Thanks,
Craig

 

NowUZme

I prefer to use a jack on one side positioned under the frame even with the normal jack point. That way you can lower the car and get a better oil drain. Just use a jack stand or block for safety while underneath.

I changed my oil at 1k and then will probably follow the manual (3750 mi/3 mos.).

You'll need the following:
1. 10mm socket to remove belly pan
2. 14mm socket or box wrench for the drain plug (DON'T overtighten, 25 ft lbs max)
3. drain pan, preferably closeable type so you can transport for recycling
4. appropriate sized filter wrench or large adjustable pliers. These filters are pretty small.
5. new filter, new copper drain plug seal
6. floor jack or ramps(Rhino brand seem to work) and a safety stand or block

ttheisen93

No point in changing before 1000 miles. Give it a chance to wear a little.

 

If you are as picky to cleanliness as I am, make sure you have a roll of shop paper-towels. I love them.

I prefer ramps, but that is just a personal preference.

VERY IMPORTANT...

When you take off the oil filter, make sure the rubber ring is included. Sometimes from factory, that ring will get stuck to the engine. It is trivial to remove, but not removing it will cause a major oil leak (more like a gusher).

I always take my finger (using latex gloves for cleanup) and wipe around the filter area to clean off any sediment.

Just a few thoughts,
Todd