Wrecked my Z :( (Potenzas blow)
#61
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Originally Posted by OrangeZYa
+1
Well I know its pretty dumb to speed when the road is soaked but I gotta tell you guys bout my buddie's 04 Convertable Z. I was in a pos rent-a-car following him and we came to a light just before the feeder road has a freeway entrance. Well an rx-8 pulled up beside him and they were both the first cars at the light side by side. There was a large thunderstorm that night but it had stopped raining like 5 minutes before and the road was totally soaked but no flooding. Anyways the rx8 was revving his engine and my friend took the bait to race. The light turned green and the rx8 took the lead b/c my friend just spun out. But pretty soon he caught up and they both almost hit eachother on the on-ramp but my buddy had to break so they could single file line onto the freeway...then the race was on again as soon as they were on the freeway. This is all like at 4am and no cars were on a 6 lane freeway. Well needless to say I couldn't keep up in my rented saturn and they were soon out of my site. Later I met up with him and i was like wtf ... the road is soaked.. how fast did you go? Who won? YOur NUTS! He says he and the rx8 pretty much kept within a few car lengths while he was in the lead all the way up to about 135 and coasted back down... but the rx8 gave up around 120. Anyways... if that's any indication... I'd say the Z is pretty well balanced even at high speeds on a very wet road. But there's no way i'd take it that fast on a rain soaked road.
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#62
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I'd say the Z is pretty well balanced even at high speeds on a very wet road. But there's no way i'd take it that fast on a rain soaked road.
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It all depends on the rubber. But I think most of us are talkin bout puddled freeways, not wet roads; at least I am. The puddle I hit was bigger than my car, and it felt at least a couple inches deep. This was on a hilly freeway. The point is, even after it stops raining, you don't know where or when you will encounter such a puddle. Also, you may not realize how much wear you have on your rear tires until it's too late.
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It all depends on the rubber. But I think most of us are talkin bout puddled freeways, not wet roads; at least I am. The puddle I hit was bigger than my car, and it felt at least a couple inches deep. This was on a hilly freeway. The point is, even after it stops raining, you don't know where or when you will encounter such a puddle. Also, you may not realize how much wear you have on your rear tires until it's too late.
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Here is what I have experienced : going straight on the center lane of the turnpike (3 lanes), around 60mph, road is wet with some pudles. The rear end start to slide ("wiggle") to the sides. Enough that I start to feel it is close to letting go. I always end up reducing to 45 or even 40. At that speed, I can still feel it wiggle but I feel I control it better.
I tried Pilots on the rear and didn't notice much difference. I am back on RE040s all around. But after this set, I plan to go to something else all around. I have heard good things of the S03s and Toyos.
Wich brings me to this question : even on dry I feel that the rear-end moves sideways on bumps. Even minor bumps, the car seems to pull sideways in the back. So I am not very surprised that when is wet and lifts, the tendency of the car is to move sideways and around.
The latest alignment was at Nissan and is all by the specs.
I tried Pilots on the rear and didn't notice much difference. I am back on RE040s all around. But after this set, I plan to go to something else all around. I have heard good things of the S03s and Toyos.
Wich brings me to this question : even on dry I feel that the rear-end moves sideways on bumps. Even minor bumps, the car seems to pull sideways in the back. So I am not very surprised that when is wet and lifts, the tendency of the car is to move sideways and around.
The latest alignment was at Nissan and is all by the specs.
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I'm trying a set of 2 Falkens (cheap) on the rear and still have RE040s on the front. I am experiencing a handling problem I didn't anticipate. The rear squirms and wiggles noticibly,even at low speeds, and I am quick to deduce that the swaying is due to weak sidewalls. I know the potenza's are about as rigid as they come but I didn't expect the difference to be as noticible as is. The Falkens are Z-rated and not that cheap, so I expected more. FYI.
I expect the fronts and rears will now wear out at about the same time and I will then go back to a matched set, probably Yokohama.
I realize this subject is hydroplaning, but swaying may be somewhat related causing it to break loose, wet or dry, so watch out running mixed sets. I am somewhat dissappointed with my decision.
I expect the fronts and rears will now wear out at about the same time and I will then go back to a matched set, probably Yokohama.
I realize this subject is hydroplaning, but swaying may be somewhat related causing it to break loose, wet or dry, so watch out running mixed sets. I am somewhat dissappointed with my decision.
Last edited by n2az; 07-04-2005 at 09:26 AM.
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Originally Posted by n2az
I'm trying a set of 2 Falkens (cheap) on the rear and still have RE040s on the front. I am experiencing a handling problem I didn't anticipate. The rear squirms and wiggles noticibly,even at low speeds, and I am quick to deduce that the swaying is due to weak sidewalls. I know the potenza's are about as rigid as they come but I didn't expect the difference to be as noticible as is. The Falkens are Z-rated and not that cheap, so I expected more. FYI.
I expect the fronts and rears will now wear out at about the same time and I will then go back to a matched set, probably Yokohama.
I realize this subject is hydroplaning, but swaying may be somewhat related causing it to break loose, wet or dry, so watch out running mixed sets. I am somewhat dissappointed with my decision.
I expect the fronts and rears will now wear out at about the same time and I will then go back to a matched set, probably Yokohama.
I realize this subject is hydroplaning, but swaying may be somewhat related causing it to break loose, wet or dry, so watch out running mixed sets. I am somewhat dissappointed with my decision.
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That's what happens to low profile tires when you get a flat or a slow leak from a nail.
If you don't catch it soon enough, driving on it will tear up the inside sidewalls.
When you turn, the backend will slip out from underneath you.
If you don't catch it soon enough, driving on it will tear up the inside sidewalls.
When you turn, the backend will slip out from underneath you.
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It's been my experience that OEM tires on any car pretty much suck.
Found this advice on the internet for defensive driving
This is also the technique I have used and so far so good
although Im not sure I would engage the clutch..
Here's some other good advice on avoiding hydroplaning
Found this advice on the internet for defensive driving
If you find yourself hydroplaning, do not touch the brakes. Slow down by smoothly lifting your foot from the accelerator, engage your clutch if you are driving a standard-shift vehicle, and let it coast down to the point where the hydroplaning stops. Some experts advise shifting an automatic transmission into neutral while you slow but I do not recommend this (for the same reason I wouldn't put my transmission in neutral on a downgrade). Remember that smoothness is very important -- you don't want to make any sudden moves. You will not be able to steer while the vehicle is hydroplaning.
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Here's some other good advice on avoiding hydroplaning
You can prevent hydroplaning. Keep good tires on your vehicle. Keep your speed down in the rain (slow by at least 1/3) and if you are following another vehicle, try to drive in their tire tracks -- let their tires displace some of the water so yours don't have to work so hard. This will help you "keep the shiny side up!"
Last edited by Built2shredZ; 07-25-2006 at 08:24 PM.
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I have Yoko ES100 and they totally suck in the ran. I almost recked in 3rd turning right on a 3 lane street that had just turned green. Luckly they backed off and I was able to maintain the car. Always yeld, even if you don't have to in the rain.
#74
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"I was probably going 65-70 in a 70 zone."
"I took my foot off of the gas"
Let me get this straight, your at or near the max speed limit, in a rainstorm, hit standing water, AND...you lift.
And you think the tires are what caused your accident?
Unbelievable!!!
bill
"I took my foot off of the gas"
Let me get this straight, your at or near the max speed limit, in a rainstorm, hit standing water, AND...you lift.
And you think the tires are what caused your accident?
Unbelievable!!!
bill
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Just to get it out there, if there's heavy rain, even with my BFG KDW2s, I'll do 45mph, maybe 50 max. 60 in lighter conditions. In the right lane, too
.
Getting somewhere 5 minutes earlier is not worth damage to my car.
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Getting somewhere 5 minutes earlier is not worth damage to my car.
#76
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Originally Posted by bailey bill
"I was probably going 65-70 in a 70 zone."
"I took my foot off of the gas"
Let me get this straight, your at or near the max speed limit, in a rainstorm, hit standing water, AND...you lift.
And you think the tires are what caused your accident?
Unbelievable!!!
bill
"I took my foot off of the gas"
Let me get this straight, your at or near the max speed limit, in a rainstorm, hit standing water, AND...you lift.
And you think the tires are what caused your accident?
Unbelievable!!!
bill
#77
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Originally Posted by Built2shredZ
Here's some other good advice on avoiding hydroplaning
Glad to hear you weren't hurt.
If they total the car, are going to buy another one?
#78
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Originally Posted by kewlii
If my back end is losing control, and my front is head toward the freeway cement divider; my instinct is let go of the gas.
If you're going straight and start to hydroplane, the best course of action is to make no adjustments. Don't turn the wheel, don't brake, don't lift off the throttle.
BTW, aren't the Potenzas "summer tires", meaning they're not meant for driving in wet conditions?
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Hydroplaning can happen with ANY tire at almost any speed. It has nothing to do with RWD and very little to do with weight distribution.
Standing water that exceeds the ability if the tire to remove said water will cause the tires to hydroplane. As tire size increases in proportion to a given weight the contact patch is larger and more water removal is required for a given depth of standing water.
If you are driving in an area of standing water that exceeds 1/4 inch your chance of hydroplaning goes way up as speed increases. If the road is wet, but has no standing water you are unlikely to hydroplane. Some tires are better at water removal than others, but even slicks will do OK if there is no standing water. On the other hand if you run into an inch deep puddle at 70MPH almost any tire will hydroplane for the duration of that puddle or until speed slows to below the tires water evacuation speed.
In the case of the Z, regardless of tire type, the larger width rear tires WILL hydroplane first due to their larger contact patch given same tire types on all four corners.
Standing water that exceeds the ability if the tire to remove said water will cause the tires to hydroplane. As tire size increases in proportion to a given weight the contact patch is larger and more water removal is required for a given depth of standing water.
If you are driving in an area of standing water that exceeds 1/4 inch your chance of hydroplaning goes way up as speed increases. If the road is wet, but has no standing water you are unlikely to hydroplane. Some tires are better at water removal than others, but even slicks will do OK if there is no standing water. On the other hand if you run into an inch deep puddle at 70MPH almost any tire will hydroplane for the duration of that puddle or until speed slows to below the tires water evacuation speed.
In the case of the Z, regardless of tire type, the larger width rear tires WILL hydroplane first due to their larger contact patch given same tire types on all four corners.
Last edited by jungle; 07-26-2006 at 08:56 AM.