ditnhau99

Hi, i was doing some research on modding my engine a bit and i see that the injen rd intake, stillen header and the stillen exhaust would give me about 50 more hp and 40 something more torque to the crank and i was wondering if this would give me enough power to take an bmw m3 and the new mustang?

r26

intake and exhaust will not do it. 50 hp is a big number if you're lucky. try 15-20.

EM-EFER

iTrader: (6)

Theres a pretty good chance that a new M3 would still take you. A new mustang... Ehhhhhhh.. Maybe. Never rely on what manafacturers say for horsepower gains unless it has a dyno. Go to www.350evo.com and get the final drive pumpkin swap... Then you will smoke both these cars pretty bad.

ditnhau99

ic thanks for the help... well i just wanted to see if any of u guys know how the stillen header and exhaust would sound like together? are they loud or just deep tone like the stock ones but a lil louder

ditnhau99

and i also wanted to know is it hard to install the 3.9 final drive ratio? and does it make the car that much quicker and does it effect the top end speed?

ditnhau99

and also can i get it with an automatic? bcus thats wat i have lolz

mavericck

good luck....

Stabber

Test pipes, intake, exhaust, clutch/flywheel and ECU flash. Good enough for 12 second timeslips with slicks. Low 13s with DRs and sometimes street tires.
2 guys in the 12s with bolt ons, a lot of them in low 13s. ALL MOTOR

ditnhau99

hmm thats a good way to get my car to move a lot quicker but just wanted to know how much would it cost for all that?

Art Vandaleigh

iTrader: (16)

Trying to get big HP numbers N/A will cost you thousands of dollars for relatively small gains at best. You might as well save up and get a bolt on supercharger like the HKS unit, which doesnt require you to mod anything else on the car, and puts down at least 80whp or more.

texasGJ

would the 3.9 final drive void the warranty?

Netko350Z

iTrader: (8)

Nos, Intake, exhaust, cats or test pipes, and ecu.

Nos is the "poor man's turbo/supercharger"

Are you looking straight line or autocross?

Stabber

You can follow the sheep and use nitrous, or you can mod the car the real way and rely on driving skill to be "fast." I dont know about you, but I didnt buy the Z to be a cheap a$$. It's not a honda civic. You dont slap nitrous on it to get fast.

Start with bolt ons first (intake, plenum, headers, hi-flow cats, exhaust, pulley, ECU, clutch/flywheel). You will need these down the road even if you do go FI. You're looking at about $2800 with that setup. Maybe a little more

By the way, nothing wrong with boost as long as you build the motor first.

Stabber

Considering most nissan dealers are ******.......yes

B-Unit

iTrader: (21)

I love when people add horsepower #s using a calculator and say, hey, if i bolt on all these mods that are "claimed" to give X amount of horse, then if i just add the numbers, ill have that much HP! LOL.

In all honesty, youll be smoking M3s after some serious bolt ons, and an ECU reflash with Tuning. OR FI. Anyway you look at it, your prolly gonna have to spend about 5-6k to be smokin m3s.

GL

-B-

doodeitstom

iTrader: (1)

Well, you can't beat the pimp factor of an m3 no matter how much hp you have sitting under the hood.

overboost

Don't buy an intake, headers, or ECU if your going FI since they might be replaced (depending on kit of course). And ECU should be after you get any FI kit, since it will have to be retuned to run boost.

BigMike

You want to take an E46 M3, buy a faster car than a Z. Sure, you can mod the hell out of the Z to take an M3, but at what cost in Dollars, Reliability, and voiding your Warranty. There are better reasons to buy a Z than to just beat another car.

Buy a used Z06 if beating an M3 is your goal. Or buy a used M3. There will always be faster cars on the road even after you're done modding whatever car you drive.

Good luck

CorruptedZ

agreed. IMHO M3 is the best car under 90K.

jmagilto

iTrader: (1)

A c6 perhaps?