I still havent done my first oil change, where can I buy dino oil? I am at 1800 miles.

 

dino oil = regular old pure oil (dinosaurs, man!). I use Castrol GTX 5W-30

 

I'll assume you ment synthetic oil...
You can get the popular Mobile-1 at any autoparts place, wal-mart, heck just about everywhere.

www.amsoil.com
www.royalpurple.com
www.summitracing.com carries different synth's like redline and I think royal- purple also.
www.jegs.com ...oils they carry is similar to summitracing

Even ebay can be a good source if you buy in bulk.

There's lots of info here in the forums about synthetics. Just use the search if you need more info.

 

First 3 oil changes were from the dealer. #4, I did myself just two weeks ago, with castrol syntec, full synthetic. Sounds smoother (I think, I dunno, it might all be in my head). I still have 1 more oil change this year at the dealer (bought lifetime oil change plan with the car).

 

Have you changed your own oil? Chanign the filter is like a 5-10 minute process. Draining the oil and adding new stuff takes much longer bc you have to wait for all of it to settle and add just the right amount. (im picky) Also like i said it costs about the same bc i keep the oil in for about 2 oil changes as opposed to all year. 2 oil changes = 40-50 bucks 1 oil change with amsoil = 55. Id much rather go with the high quality and extra protection of amsoil 5w-40 but i plan on keeping this car for a long time........ i love it.

 

i have 10k and just switched to synthetic... couldnt tell a difference?

 

I just had my 1st oil change done at the dealer and when I asked what there synthetic option was they advised me not to use it because of the coating that is on the pistons. Dealer said it could cause harm. I have always used synthetic oils after breakin and was really suprised my this statement. Anyone know if there is any truth to this? I drive my car hard and will be going FI after the year is over and feel more confortable with Motul or Redline etc.

 

5-10 minutes? i take 5-10 to lift car and take the spalsh sheild off, plus u gotta fill whatever X amount of oil you lost by changing filters, honestly it doesnt make much sense to go through all that much trouble and not change the oil. You figure if you wait another 5 mins you can drain oil and use new oil and wont have to worry about it till awhile.

 

The coat on the moly pistons wear off after a few thousand miles. And no it doesnt do harm, they are misinformed.

 

Yep...just about sums up what most dealers/service dept. are when it comes true knowledge of the products they sell/service.(Jason and the guys at perf. nissan excluded)

 

My Nissan tech flat refused to let me change until 3000. He is old school, but a 25 yr Senior Master Nissan Tech knows more than I do.
At 3K I did Slick 50 and Mobil 1.

 

OMFG!!!! SLICK 50??? Are you on something dude??? Search on Google for that stuff, it does nothing but harm to your engine.

 

Mobile 1 Extended Performance

 

My dealer told me that there Nissan oil was Quaker State

 

hey, I don't know everything, so I did Google Slick 50 ( I am usually a Yahoo guy, but it was your suggestion ) and skepdic.com validates the science...

Nissan dealers to my knowledge can use whatever oil they desire, Nissan doesn't have a manufacturer's oil like Ford does with Motorcraft. Valvoline is commonly used at some dealers. I would be interested in other experiences.

 

here just one of thousands of writeups that you can find :

Research Points to Potential Dangers of Slick 50 and Other Teflon - Based Oil Additives

When Teflon-based additives were put on the market in the 1970's, they were hailed as "magic elixirs" for motor oil. Slick 50 is a Teflon-based oil additive, which contains PTFE, (polytetraflouroethelene) and Teflon in a carrier fluid of conventional motor oil. manufacturers' of Slick 50 claim that it coats the internal mechanical components with PTFE and lasts for up to 50,000 miles. Other Teflon-based oil additives make similar claims to reduce engine wear, increase fuel economy, and cut oil consumption.

Recently, however, a growing number of experts in the automobile industry have begun to speak out about these additives.

· General Motors has issued an internal bulletin to its dealers warning against the use of teflon-based oil additives in GM engines. In the bulletin, GM warns about the problems with accelerated wear after the use of PTFE additives.

· DuPont, maker of Teflon, formally announced that it would discontinue selling Teflon powder to companies using it to fortify oil. DuPont had reviewed extensive research by its own scientists as well as others and concluded that Teflon is not useful in oil additives.

· Two major airplane engine manufacturers', Avco Lycoming and Teledyne Continental, came up with the same findings. "We’ve tried every additive, and for the most part they're worthless."

A number of research studies have also found that Teflon-based additives add no benefit and in many cases actually harm engines.

· The NASA Lewis Research Center found, "In types of bearing-surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases, we have seen detrimental effects."

· North Dakota State Lab states, "The theory sounds good, the only problem is, the products don't work." A University of Utah study found that there was a pressure drop across the oil filter after using Teflon additives."

· The Department of the Army recently issued a memorandum strongly recommending that these lubricants not be used in military administrative or combat / tactical fleets.

In addition, many consumers have reported the problems they have experienced as a result of putting Slick 50 in their engines. These consumers claim that Teflon-based additives:

· Plug up oil filters, depriving the engine of clean oil.

· Plug up oil passages, leading to piston wall scuffing.

· Burn in the combustion chamber, causing the formation of hydrofluoric acid which corrodes the exhaust system and is harmful to the environment.

According to Nutz and Boltz. an automotive consumer magazine, Teflon powder doesn't coat anything unless it is chemically bonded to metal. Even if it were possible to make PTFE stick to internal parts, it would be scraped off by the motion of the rings against the cylinder walls, similar to a metal spatula scraping a Teflon pan.

Based upon this information and the serious questions it raises, QSML (Quaker State Minit-Lube) discontinued carrying Slick 50 in all company stores on May 1. In addition, uses of any additive, including Teflon-based additives void Quaker State 250,000 mile warranty. Because Quaker State runs its oil through required engine tests for API service designation, adding any substance to the oil requires engine testing to maintain the license. Placing additives into other manufacturer's oil may void their warranties, as well.

 

okay, there are differing opinions on an issue.
I am completely satisfied with my Slick 50 application at 3000 miles. I have 10K miles now, I have changed the Mobil 1 oil twice and my car is smooth running and fast. I don't really have to decide whether or not to reapply Slick 50 for a long time.

By the way, my 1990 Infiniti Q45 on the Slick/Mobil combo runs fine for my 1st wife to this day.
My 1992 Eddie Bauer Explorer finally laid down for my second wife at 217K (tranny not engine).
And my 1992 Ford F-250 460 V8 is currently at 242K on Amsoil and Slick 50.

Works for me...

 

Our dealer uses Castrol as a standard oil, they offer many types too.

 

Castrol GTX 5W30 every 3000 miles