Will take my Z to dealer for possibly major problem.Need advices on what to do before
#1
Will take my Z to dealer for possibly major problem.Need advices on what to do before
It's been two days since my Z's engine overheated due to running
with the fan connectors disconnected, because guys at Technosquare
forgot to plug it back on after ECU reflash.
I've been paranoid ever since because I believe that the engine might have been damaged.
It was overheating pretty badly, even though I turned the engine off, with
coolant gushing out of the reserver tank and all...soon after SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on too.
Ever since the incident I felt loss of power...it could be because of the
engine, but I also found out last night that my clutch might have been
shot also.
Clutch is slipping, and I can hear/feel the spring not action normal when I release the clutch.
It's a Nismo clutch with only 2000miles on it btw.
I'm probably in a worst situation right now..now I have to get both the engine
and clutch checked/serviced, and dealer will probably think
I did damage to both while racing...which I DID'T.
I will be taking my Z to the dealer first thing in the moring on Monday,
and I need some advice to prepare my Z to not get suspision from them.
Here are the facts:
1. I'm not sure if the engine might have been damaged, but I'm 100% sure
that there's something wrong with the clutch.
2. My car's not stock. I have JWT Pop Charger, NISMO Exhaust, NISMO Clutch,
JWT Flywheel, and my biggest worry Technosquare ECU reflash.
3. I have Silver Preferred Extended Warranty, which my fianacial guy at the time
of purchase supposedly told me if the engine is damaged,
it's covered and will be replaced no questions asked.
Would it be ok to take the car in as-is?
I'm just thinking about taking out the Pop Charger and put the stock intake.
And as for ECU, there's no sticker on the chip, so I'm assuming they
probably won't find out.
My goal is to try not to get my warranty void, and the engine replaced under warranty if it's damaged.
I have no idea where the clutch problem came from...is there a possibly
because it was caused from the incident?
One thing tho, I've been noticing that weird clutch spring feeling beginning
about two weeks before, but it was also shot when the incident happened.
Thanks in advance guys.
with the fan connectors disconnected, because guys at Technosquare
forgot to plug it back on after ECU reflash.
I've been paranoid ever since because I believe that the engine might have been damaged.
It was overheating pretty badly, even though I turned the engine off, with
coolant gushing out of the reserver tank and all...soon after SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on too.
Ever since the incident I felt loss of power...it could be because of the
engine, but I also found out last night that my clutch might have been
shot also.
Clutch is slipping, and I can hear/feel the spring not action normal when I release the clutch.
It's a Nismo clutch with only 2000miles on it btw.
I'm probably in a worst situation right now..now I have to get both the engine
and clutch checked/serviced, and dealer will probably think
I did damage to both while racing...which I DID'T.
I will be taking my Z to the dealer first thing in the moring on Monday,
and I need some advice to prepare my Z to not get suspision from them.
Here are the facts:
1. I'm not sure if the engine might have been damaged, but I'm 100% sure
that there's something wrong with the clutch.
2. My car's not stock. I have JWT Pop Charger, NISMO Exhaust, NISMO Clutch,
JWT Flywheel, and my biggest worry Technosquare ECU reflash.
3. I have Silver Preferred Extended Warranty, which my fianacial guy at the time
of purchase supposedly told me if the engine is damaged,
it's covered and will be replaced no questions asked.
Would it be ok to take the car in as-is?
I'm just thinking about taking out the Pop Charger and put the stock intake.
And as for ECU, there's no sticker on the chip, so I'm assuming they
probably won't find out.
My goal is to try not to get my warranty void, and the engine replaced under warranty if it's damaged.
I have no idea where the clutch problem came from...is there a possibly
because it was caused from the incident?
One thing tho, I've been noticing that weird clutch spring feeling beginning
about two weeks before, but it was also shot when the incident happened.
Thanks in advance guys.
#2
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your warranty can't be void unless they prove that something non-stock caused the problem. as long as they don't see the ecu reflash your fine and even if they do, they have to prove that it caused the damage. i dont' know what the silver warranty is but if they have a condition where you can't add anything to your car then return everything to stock and have them check it out.
#3
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luckily alot of the parts your using are fom nissan so no probs there, especially if it was dealer installed. a dealer can only decline warranty service if the aftermarket part in question caused the failure. one way to check the motor yourself is to do a comp check. factory standards for the z are 185-140psi. you will want to see atleast 170psi, most will be 180+. possibly some of the power loss could be from the clutch or burned oil or possibly just in your mind.
#4
Hey thanks for the replies. I might as well just leave the intake in then huh.
Well my reason would be that it overheated because the fan connector
got loose.
As for the clutch...I don't know...
I'm so disscouraged that I'm actually thinking about getting rid of the car and get an 06 or something...
In 4 months of owning the Z, I've taken it in for the service 30+ times.
For some reason it has given me lots of bad luck...so many heartaches...yet I love my Z so much...
I was going to look into lemon law, but this will be third time I'm taking it in
for the clutch problem. When they fixed it first time, I believe that it never
was fixed correctly. Vibration on the clutch was always present.
Well my reason would be that it overheated because the fan connector
got loose.
As for the clutch...I don't know...
I'm so disscouraged that I'm actually thinking about getting rid of the car and get an 06 or something...
In 4 months of owning the Z, I've taken it in for the service 30+ times.
For some reason it has given me lots of bad luck...so many heartaches...yet I love my Z so much...
I was going to look into lemon law, but this will be third time I'm taking it in
for the clutch problem. When they fixed it first time, I believe that it never
was fixed correctly. Vibration on the clutch was always present.
#5
Originally Posted by overZealous1
luckily alot of the parts your using are fom nissan so no probs there, especially if it was dealer installed. a dealer can only decline warranty service if the aftermarket part in question caused the failure. one way to check the motor yourself is to do a comp check. factory standards for the z are 185-140psi. you will want to see atleast 170psi, most will be 180+. possibly some of the power loss could be from the clutch or burned oil or possibly just in your mind.
#7
Severe overheating can make any aluminum head warp. It happened to my old Miata. When the head warps, coolent can leak into the combustion chamber. This causes an obvious loss of power. I had to have the head reground to square it up. Not an easy task to fix.
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#9
Originally Posted by davidv
I answered your question about a fraudulent warranty claim concerning overheating on another thread. If Technosquare is to blame, then your beef is with them.
Is the NISMO Clutch a “R” or “S” part?
Is the NISMO Clutch a “R” or “S” part?
I think it's more of clutch issue than engine when it comes to loss of power,
but you never know...
NISMO Clutch is R-Tune part.
#10
Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
it will depend on your dealer..
how is the car running once you re-connect the fan?
If you could try and get the car over to us... if its running better now...
how is the car running once you re-connect the fan?
If you could try and get the car over to us... if its running better now...
EXCEPT for the massive power loss. It could be the engine...
but I'm definitely sure that the Clutch has to do something with the
loss of power too, because there's slippage.
3K-4K torque: None, When WOT car barely pulls when the RPM just shoots up.
I wish I can take it to you tomorrow, but due to work I'm going to have
to go to a local dealer sigh...
#11
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That is what happens when you let poeple do stupid sh#t to your cars.My friend you should go back to the guy that did the work on your car and beat the hell out of him and has kids!
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