Oil Change Approaching - NEED HELP
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Hi Guys,
Sorry for another thread on oil, but wanted to get your quick opinion. I'm approaching my first oil change and after reading all the threads I'm even more confused. I've narrrowed it down to two options:
1. Use Mobil 1 and change every 5k miles or so (is that a good interval, seems like a waste to change every 3K miles with this stuff)
2. Use a regular mineral oil and change every 3k miles (BTW, what is a good min. oil?).
What are your thoughts???
All info is greatly appreciated!
Sorry for another thread on oil, but wanted to get your quick opinion. I'm approaching my first oil change and after reading all the threads I'm even more confused. I've narrrowed it down to two options:
1. Use Mobil 1 and change every 5k miles or so (is that a good interval, seems like a waste to change every 3K miles with this stuff)
2. Use a regular mineral oil and change every 3k miles (BTW, what is a good min. oil?).
What are your thoughts???
All info is greatly appreciated!
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Hello silverzman (from a fellow CS owner!),
My own thoughts on oil. Oil is like shoes or hairstyles - there are many opinions and it is a personal decision. Do what is comfortable for you. I am the original owner of a 1972 240 that has never had anything other than Quaker State mineral oil that was religiously changed at 3K-4K intervals. The insides of the engine are clean as a whistle with no deposits or varnish at all. For my Honda 4-cylinder, Castrol GT gave me a bit more MPG. Changed every 3700 miles, the inside of the engine are also clean and shiny at 260,000 miles on the odometer. I believe that it is more important to regularly change oil at no more than 4K intervals than what kind of oil you use - just stick with one brand and don't switch between brands.
Others may have other opinions, I am sure.
Good luck on whatever you decide!
My own thoughts on oil. Oil is like shoes or hairstyles - there are many opinions and it is a personal decision. Do what is comfortable for you. I am the original owner of a 1972 240 that has never had anything other than Quaker State mineral oil that was religiously changed at 3K-4K intervals. The insides of the engine are clean as a whistle with no deposits or varnish at all. For my Honda 4-cylinder, Castrol GT gave me a bit more MPG. Changed every 3700 miles, the inside of the engine are also clean and shiny at 260,000 miles on the odometer. I believe that it is more important to regularly change oil at no more than 4K intervals than what kind of oil you use - just stick with one brand and don't switch between brands.
Others may have other opinions, I am sure.
Good luck on whatever you decide!
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Just a question. Isn't the time (months) between changes also important. The additive package that is present in oil breaks down in relation to both mileage and time doesn't it?
The only reason I bring this up is because I usually only put 7.5K miles on my car/year. If I just changed it every 3-4K miles, I'd end up changing it every 6 months.
I'm thinking that my first oil change will be at the end of January (4 months time and probably about 2K miles)
Any comments would be appreciated.
VG
The only reason I bring this up is because I usually only put 7.5K miles on my car/year. If I just changed it every 3-4K miles, I'd end up changing it every 6 months.
I'm thinking that my first oil change will be at the end of January (4 months time and probably about 2K miles)
Any comments would be appreciated.
VG
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Originally posted by VaGentleman
Just a question. Isn't the time (months) between changes also important. The additive package that is present in oil breaks down in relation to both mileage and time doesn't it?
The only reason I bring this up is because I usually only put 7.5K miles on my car/year. If I just changed it every 3-4K miles, I'd end up changing it every 6 months.
I'm thinking that my first oil change will be at the end of January (4 months time and probably about 2K miles)
Any comments would be appreciated.
VG
Just a question. Isn't the time (months) between changes also important. The additive package that is present in oil breaks down in relation to both mileage and time doesn't it?
The only reason I bring this up is because I usually only put 7.5K miles on my car/year. If I just changed it every 3-4K miles, I'd end up changing it every 6 months.
I'm thinking that my first oil change will be at the end of January (4 months time and probably about 2K miles)
Any comments would be appreciated.
VG
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I believe that it is more important to regularly change oil at no more than 4K intervals than what kind of oil you use - just stick with one brand and don't switch between brands.
Follow up question for ChinaClipper: Why don't you suggest switching between brands. I haven't heard that before.
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Originally posted by silverzman
Follow up question for ChinaClipper: Why don't you suggest switching between brands. I haven't heard that before.
Follow up question for ChinaClipper: Why don't you suggest switching between brands. I haven't heard that before.
BTW, I am unconvinced of the utility of synthetic oils versus their cost. No doubt if I raced the car or the car experienced extremely high or extremely low temperatures as a rule, it would provide benefits commensurate with the cost. I just don't think the added benefits are realized by my driving habits or style, and it is not worth the increased cost.
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Here's my $0.02...
Unless you plan on attending track events or playing in the upper rpm band on a regular basis, then conventional oil will be ok. The most important thing is to change your oil every 3k miles, whether it's conventional or synthetic oil. And here's why:
When you have a film of oil between 2 surfaces, imagine the extreme pressure placed on it. When that sort of pressure is applied, the oil either exits the 2 surfaces or breaks down. Imagine conventional oil as a M&M and synthetic oil as a Skittle. If you step on the M&M and Skittle, you will notice that both will crush and flatten. The same effect happens to oil molecules, regardless if it's conventional or synthetic.
Where synthetic offers more protection is in the area of thermal breakdown and viscosity consistency in the temperature range. Synthetic has a higher flash point among all things. Using the M&M and Skittle example, the Skittle will melt at a higher temperature than the M&M.
Oil should be changed every 3k miles/3 months, which ever comes first. The reason for every 3 months is that the engine contains chemical byproducts from combustion that may chemically react w/ oil and become acidic.
Michael.
Unless you plan on attending track events or playing in the upper rpm band on a regular basis, then conventional oil will be ok. The most important thing is to change your oil every 3k miles, whether it's conventional or synthetic oil. And here's why:
When you have a film of oil between 2 surfaces, imagine the extreme pressure placed on it. When that sort of pressure is applied, the oil either exits the 2 surfaces or breaks down. Imagine conventional oil as a M&M and synthetic oil as a Skittle. If you step on the M&M and Skittle, you will notice that both will crush and flatten. The same effect happens to oil molecules, regardless if it's conventional or synthetic.
Where synthetic offers more protection is in the area of thermal breakdown and viscosity consistency in the temperature range. Synthetic has a higher flash point among all things. Using the M&M and Skittle example, the Skittle will melt at a higher temperature than the M&M.
Oil should be changed every 3k miles/3 months, which ever comes first. The reason for every 3 months is that the engine contains chemical byproducts from combustion that may chemically react w/ oil and become acidic.
Michael.
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Michael: It looks like you've had a history with Nissan cars. What's the oil you've had the most success with?
I've always owned Hondas and Castrol GTX seemed to work best for me. I've also been told to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
I've always owned Hondas and Castrol GTX seemed to work best for me. I've also been told to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
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Originally posted by silverzman
Michael: It looks like you've had a history with Nissan cars. What's the oil you've had the most success with?
I've always owned Hondas and Castrol GTX seemed to work best for me. I've also been told to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
Michael: It looks like you've had a history with Nissan cars. What's the oil you've had the most success with?
I've always owned Hondas and Castrol GTX seemed to work best for me. I've also been told to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
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I've only used Mobil-1 5W30 or 10W30 in my cars. The SE-R regularly sees the 7500rpm redline and synthetic for a turbocharged car is a must. I plan on hitting driving events w/ the 350 so I'm using Mobil-1 for it as well.
When I bought my first Z, a 95 300ZX non-turbo, I used Castrol GTX for a short period of time, then moved onto Castrol Syntec, then finally stuck w/ Mobil-1. At the time, I didn't know jack about oils -- just name brands -- so there was really no compelling technical reason for the brand/type switching except for marketing. I switched to Syntec because I wanted to try synthetic and I switched to Mobil-1 because of the name heritage and factory fill on some high-end cars. Now, after reading about oils, I personally feel that Mobil-1 is the right oil for me. It's a "synthetic" and it's more affordable than the true synthetics (i.e. Redline, Amsoil, etc.) that cost twice as much.
If anything, heed my words: any oil will work, just change your oil regularly at every 3k miles (or 3 months). Don't believe the myth that synthetic oil will extend oil changes. The only thing that would extend an oil change would be a larger oil supply.
Michael.
BTW, I'm not 100% sure, but Courtesy Nissan and Bankston-Lewisiville use Pennzoil.
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Originally posted by silverzman
Michael: It looks like you've had a history with Nissan cars. What's the oil you've had the most success with?
Michael: It looks like you've had a history with Nissan cars. What's the oil you've had the most success with?
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WayneTN
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Originally posted by WayneTN
Yeah, Michael. Is it M&M's or Skittles? Inquiring minds want to know............
Yeah, Michael. Is it M&M's or Skittles? Inquiring minds want to know............
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Forgive me if this is common knowledge, but is it true that once you've used mineral oil for awhile, synthetic won't do you any good?
I'm trying to get a few thousand more miles out of my old Sentra (go ahead and snicker, those of you with nice cars) and I'd pay a little more to do it.
See, the longer I drive the Sentra, the better Z I'll be able to afford.
I'm trying to get a few thousand more miles out of my old Sentra (go ahead and snicker, those of you with nice cars) and I'd pay a little more to do it.
See, the longer I drive the Sentra, the better Z I'll be able to afford.
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Originally posted by Michael-Dallas
When you have a film of oil between 2 surfaces, imagine the extreme pressure placed on it. When that sort of pressure is applied, the oil either exits the 2 surfaces or breaks down. Imagine conventional oil as a M&M and synthetic oil as a Skittle. If you step on the M&M and Skittle, you will notice that both will crush and flatten. The same effect happens to oil molecules, regardless if it's conventional or synthetic.
When you have a film of oil between 2 surfaces, imagine the extreme pressure placed on it. When that sort of pressure is applied, the oil either exits the 2 surfaces or breaks down. Imagine conventional oil as a M&M and synthetic oil as a Skittle. If you step on the M&M and Skittle, you will notice that both will crush and flatten. The same effect happens to oil molecules, regardless if it's conventional or synthetic.
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Great analogy Michael-Dallas!
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Originally posted by sessions
Forgive me if this is common knowledge, but is it true that once you've used mineral oil for awhile, synthetic won't do you any good?
I'm trying to get a few thousand more miles out of my old Sentra (go ahead and snicker, those of you with nice cars) and I'd pay a little more to do it.
See, the longer I drive the Sentra, the better Z I'll be able to afford.
Forgive me if this is common knowledge, but is it true that once you've used mineral oil for awhile, synthetic won't do you any good?
I'm trying to get a few thousand more miles out of my old Sentra (go ahead and snicker, those of you with nice cars) and I'd pay a little more to do it.
See, the longer I drive the Sentra, the better Z I'll be able to afford.
But to answer your question, I can only speak of my experience: I bought my SE-R at 67k miles and since my ownership, I have used Mobil-1. It now has over 86k miles and it does not burn a drop of oil. And I use Mobil-1 in it because I'm VERY rough on my SE-R. The only times it doesn't see redline is when my parents are riding w/ me.
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Your mileage may vary.
Michael.
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Originally posted by Michael-Dallas
The only times it doesn't see redline is when my parents are riding w/ me.
Your mileage may vary.
Michael.
The only times it doesn't see redline is when my parents are riding w/ me.
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What do you think about changing the oil in the first 20 miles, then at regular intervals thereafter? I was reading a website on engine break-in that recommended changing the oil after the first 20 miles, as that is the oil change with the most little bits of metal, flotsam, jetsam and detrius in it.
Craig
Craig
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There's two ways to answer that.
1. Doing it won't hurt.
2. On my Sr20 motor, I did my first at 3,500miles and after 140k miles, the compression is still excellent. In fact, 3 of the cylinders are within a few pounds of the factory spec. So you see, it makes little difference in modern engines.
Fly
1. Doing it won't hurt.
2. On my Sr20 motor, I did my first at 3,500miles and after 140k miles, the compression is still excellent. In fact, 3 of the cylinders are within a few pounds of the factory spec. So you see, it makes little difference in modern engines.
Fly
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I average about 6 oil changes a year and I calculated using Mobil 1 is about $15 more per oil change than the regular stuff. So on a per year basis, that only about $100 more. Definitely worth the extra protection IMO for a $30K car.
Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy Mobil 1? The best price I've found thusfar is Costco for ~$23 for six.
Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy Mobil 1? The best price I've found thusfar is Costco for ~$23 for six.
Last edited by silverzman; 12-24-2002 at 06:51 AM.