I know, I know, if you have to ask don't touch the car. Anyways, are the rear jack stand points underneath those black plastic covers just in front and midline to the rear wheels? Where the hell do I put the jack stands in the rear?

 

not a stupid question actually, when I had to have a flat changed the shop could not figure out how to get it onto a lift, so they gave up and decided to use a floor jack.

they finally settled on hitting the large circle of suspension that the spring sits in. they couldnt find a satisfactory spot of frame or anything substantial other than the suspension.

I looked it over as well, and Ive jacked up a few different cars in my day(took shop in HS) and never had a problem finding points to put the jack.

anyway, thats what I did. and it didnt hurt anything.

 

Here's a pic from Sport Compact Car magazine that may help. It showed the Z on a lift, so you could probably use the lift points they used for your jack stands. Hope this helps.

Craig

 

Now this is interesting. Thanks Rob for asking the question.

At least we don't have to worry about the car breaking in half like the Corvettes tend to do.

 

I checked my 350Z Service Manual CD on lift points and I could NOT believe what it contained. To use Jack (Safety) Stands you have to buy a “service tool”! It is Kent-Moore tool Part # LM4519-0000 “Safety stand attachment”. You are suppose to put the jack stands in the same location the Z’s included jack, on the “Door Sill”. Without the tool you bend the body!

Even worse, if you go to a shop that doesn’t have a drive-on lift they have to have lift pads with a groove (to miss the raised part of the sill). The manual says, “If the pad does not have a groove, prepare a suitable attachment with one”. That’s great, now I have to check all the places I have the car serviced for the type of lift! Maybe I am supposed to buy the other tool they list for the shop I take the car to!

I printed the two pages from the Service Manual CD and scanned them onto my website. I scanned at 600 dpi (4+ meg) and then converted them to 100 dpi (425KB). They are at:
100 dpi:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~delb/Image...Point1-100.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~delb/Image...Point2-100.jpg

600 dpi:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~delb/Images/LiftPoint1.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~delb/Images/LiftPoint2.jpg

The second page also shows lift points for a garage (floor) jack.
BTW: Does anyone know how to copy a drawing out of an Acrobat pdf file, I could only copy the text around the image, which’s why I printed and then scanned the pages.

 

I used to take my old maxima to the base auto hobby shop and they showed me how to use a block of wood to simulate having that grooved attachment. However, I got on a Maxima enthusiasts website and found that there were points under the car that could take the weight and ended up using those. If you look at the pic above, they're not using that special attachment, but seem to have found the points where the car can take the weight without punching through the unibody or any other horrible outcome.

Craig

 

On a related note, when you take your car to a shop to be worked on, make sure they jack it up correctly! My brother took his '02 T/A WS6 to get drag radials installed, and the shop tried to lift his car without using the attachement for the grooves and bent those pieces flat against the bottom of his car, and in the process cracked his side skirts and his front fender. It wasn't noticeable from the outside, but it was pretty messed up underneath. I'm not sure how much damage it would do to the Z since it is mostly metal, but I would hate to find out!

 

Acrobat FULL VERSION allows you to select text or images.

-TB

 

Does anybody know where to get those custom attachment pieces?

 

Them Bones
Kent-Moore Tools
http://www.spxkentmoore.com/
1-800-345-2233 or send message from website

Craig - ttheisen93
Yes, I agree that the points they show are probably the best way to lift. When I saw it the first thing I did was print it out to save in the car for reference Do you have a higher res picture available?

BTW: What was the dimensions of the block of wood?

 

Strawman,

You can find the original picture at http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/fe...san/index.html

As far as the wooden blocks go, they were 8 inch sections of 2x4. Since they provide even pressure across the block, they work pretty well on lifts not to damage those crappy reinforced lips. However, finding a good place on the underbody, like the picture above, is way better, since you can use the jack that came with the car to lift, then put your jackstands underneath, if you're working at home.

Take all of this with the caveat that, since I haven't received my Z yet, I haven't tried on anything other than a Maxima. However, It looks like the SCC mag guys got the car up and down without breaking anything, especially since they had to return it to Nissan afterwards!

I'd like to hear from some of the mod shops that lurk on these boards, since I'm guessing they don't bother with Nissan's special attachment for their lifts, but I may be wrong.

Craig

 

Thanks for the responses, the service dept. at my dealer told me to put the jackstands underneath those round aluminum suspension points as stated earlier. I'm not sure what I'm going to do when I want to upgrade the suspension. (one of my first mods). I guess I'll have a shop do it. Cam, you know of anyone to trust in NC?