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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Has anyone ordered the Nissan jack adapters for their jacks?

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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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Default Has anyone ordered the Nissan jack adapters for their jacks?

Has anyone ordered the jack adapters that Nissan offers for your jack so you can lift your 350Z from the side with your own jack(not the jack that came with the car)?

I was wondering if you can order them somewere else other than the dealership.

I'd also wouldn't mind buying a used one too.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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what kind of jack are you using?

if its a hydrolic floor jack, you should just lift up from the frame / (further under then the point where the OE floor jack goes) or from the rear diff housing etc...

?
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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zlleh

i tried ordering from my dealership but they didn't know what the heck i was talking about. let me know if you find a substitute.

thx

pp
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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ill post a part number monday..

*IMHO its useless if you jack it up from other places...*
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 07:00 AM
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Thanks for the reply.

It's just a 2 ton floor jack, something like this:


I believe the manual states that an adapter can be ordered for you floor jack to put in place so instead of the circular thing you see at the top of the jack, it will have the same head as your car's OEM jack so that you can lift your car the same way as you would with your car's OEM jack.

And yes, I can always jack up the car from the rear diff. housing but the jack head is metal and the diff. housing is aluminum and I hate seeing the metal head digg into the diff. housing. Even so, this does not solve the problem when I want to jack up the front end to change the front tires.

Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
what kind of jack are you using?

if its a hydrolic floor jack, you should just lift up from the frame / (further under then the point where the OE floor jack goes) or from the rear diff housing etc...

?

Last edited by ZlleH; Jul 17, 2006 at 07:14 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 09:01 AM
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only the cover is aluminum...

There are other places you can lift up the car besides those really...

I havent found the adapter yet... Ill keep looking today though...
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 09:15 AM
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I ordered one of these when they were on sale for $16 one time.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
I liked the idea of using it since on my last car the usual floor jack cup doesn't support the pinch weld right and it ends up getting damaged over time. I'll warn you though that even though my Craftsman jack has a removable cup the Eastwood adapter was too big and I made it fit by making a piece for it on my lathe. The Eastwood product fits 2 sizes of floor jacks by being made with one spindle size then they supply a bigger sleeve that slides over the small one and bolts on. For me one was too small, the other too big. It works great but then you must be carefull about where you place it since 95% of the Z has plastic from the ground effects on either side of the pinch weld. Not the best money I've ever spent but still glad I have it to use.
I've always been more interested in the jack stand pads that are shown in the manual becuase the only recommended jack stand points are shown to be at the factory locations on the pinch weld for the OEM jack. I don't always trust I will find the right place for the jack stands. I can see the pinch welds getting weakened and folded a little if you just throw the stands at the recommended point without the pads with the cutout groove in there to allow the pinch weld to sit down into somewhat. It would take a lot of pressure off of it.
Can we track those down too??
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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I too have been looking for these "trolly blocks" for quite some time. Jason if you can find these that would be GREAT!
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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Here is one more option for everyone if they haven't bought a jack yet.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94491
I also have seen a manual scissors jack in their store over here. It was a combination of the factory jack and a regular floor jack in that it was scissors style but had a large handle that you pump up and down and twist to release. Can't find it on their web site today though. If you can find it, it was only about $25-$30 from what I remember.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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I just use a little block of wood on my jack; works fine. When jacking from the side points, you don't have to jack on that seam, anyway; if you get under there and look, there is a reinforced area directly behand the seam at the jack points. Just put a 6" piece of 2X2 on top of your jack and line it up on that reinforced area behind the lip of the seam. I do the same thing with jack stands.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bjr
I ordered one of these when they were on sale for $16 one time.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
$16 for it is way too much man. I get a 2-ton floor jack for $14 from walmart and $16 for that little thing?
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Last year, I sent an email to km@servicesolutions.spx.com (http://www.nissantechmate.com/) regarding LM4519-0000, the part number for the tool. Their response was, "Thank for your recent inquiry. The part number that you provided is invalid. Please let me know if there is anything else that you need." I cited the manual and page number where I got the part number, but they still couldn't help. Maybe they have it in their database by now?
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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I made some myself out of hard rubber blocks. Got some rubber from a local industrial supply house, 4" wide, 1" thick and 18" long. I cut it into four 4"x4" squares then cut a groove across the center of each one about 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep. That allows each block to fit over the welded flange under the car where the bottom and sides meet. That allows me to use the floor jack and not crush the flange. I also let a block sit on the lift pad of the jack when lifting at the pumpkin or the front cross member.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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I'm using some hard rubber spring dampeners I picked up from pep boys to place on the jack stands under each corner of the car. My floor jack already came with a rubber piece on the thing that lifts the vehicle. I have the aluminum racing jack that you can also get at pep boys (it was on sale) but I wouldn't recommend it. I've already had one break on me. the joint between the lift handle and the mechanism that you turn to release the hydraulic pressure is made of aluminum (when that part really should have been made of steel). Anyway I had it up one day and the joint bent and I was just lucky that I was finally able to get the car down. I tried to return it but was only able to get an exchange :|
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bananax
$16 for it is way too much man. I get a 2-ton floor jack for $14 from walmart and $16 for that little thing?
Yeah, I started out like that too. It's much easier to use a full size floor jack though. I keep the small one around for areas where it fits in better.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 03:04 AM
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Yesterday I went to Walmart and saw a floor jack with adapter built in. If I remember right, it was fifty some dollars. Check that out.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Caved in and called the dealership's parts department. They had no idea what I was talking about. I said: "Are you telling me that of all the years you have been working there, not one single person has come in to order an adapter so that they can jack up their car with a floor jack instead of using the OEM jack?" He had no answer, he just apologized and said he has never heard of an adapter.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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This info is straight from the 05' Service Manual Volume 1.

On-board attachment . LM4086-0200 (really meant for a lift but can be placed on floorjack pad.)

Jack-stand attachment LM4519-0000 (meant for pin-in type jack stands)

Name:  jackpad.jpg
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Last edited by techcontrol; Jul 18, 2006 at 07:49 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 07:43 AM
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I went to the dealership but didn't follow up with them.

FYI I don't think it's a KM part. As I read that chart from the service manual, it's a Nissan part number, since the Kent-Moore part numbers are parenthesized. This part shows (-), which I interpret as no Kent-Moore part.
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