qu8ttro

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost at 30K. Any recommendations on what I need to do? I got something in the mail from stevens creek nissan asking for $400+ for 30K tune up. Is it worth it? I really dont want to pay that much. I rather do it myself. Any advice??

FairladyZX

iTrader: (19)

i didn't know a tune up was necessary at just 30k. i thought the dealer told me just change oil and drive till 100k

savvy

iTrader: (1)

holy mother of god thats way too much to pay for all the "work" they do to the car. There was another thread on here eariler asking the same question and another member broke it out and all the services they do for you, if you were to do them yourself would only cost you like $115...i will see if i can find the thread

savvy

iTrader: (1)

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ghlight=dealer


BAM thats the thread

qu8ttro

iTrader: (1)

Tell me about it! I almost **** in my pants when i saw the price. Thanks for the link i'll go check it out.

nlsqba

iTrader: (1)

i went for a 16k oil change - and the guy tells me i need an oil flush. and he will only charge me $120+ regular oil change (like 150 total). I just said thank you maybe next time.

langtubip

iTrader: (18)

damn thats too much. i'm @ 10K.

qu8ttro

iTrader: (1)

They must think we are stupid or something. agreed..stealerships

bleufiend

iTrader: (4)

All we do at mine is flush the coolant, change the oil, do an induction and injection clean, fuel additive, balance tires (no rotate on the Z obviously) oil additive, change out brake fluid in resorvoir, change out wiper blade inserts, change airfilter. And I think thats about it.

Now if you want to know what I really recommend for you to do your own 30k, here ya go.

Change your oil if you need it.
Change your manual transmission oil, its no different then changing your reg oil and you can never put too much in ( I think you need 3 qts cant remem off the top of my head).
If you have a custom air filter then dont worry about it.
If your tires are out of balance then get them balanced somewhere.

I honestly dont know why we suck out the brake fluid in the resorvoir and put new fluid in, it seems pointless to me.

If you have a airlift system and compressor then flush your coolant. If not you may want to go and have this done.

The induction/injection will actually knock alot of built up carbon and bs out of your engine believe it or not, but honestly Id wait till 60k to do that.

Edit: In addition to my cooling statement, you can do a drain and refill by taking the drain plug out of the bottom of the radiator and letting it drain till it stops. Then do a 50/50 mix of your coolant and water and pour it in. The only problem with this is that you may get a air bubble in your system which can cause the temp gauge to peg out whenever it passes the sensor. If you do get a air bubble you have to run the car and rev it and rev it, and rev it yet some more and hope that you get it to "burp" the air bubble out thru the radiator cap.

If youve tryed burping it and it is still spiking the gauge out then youll have to live the front of the car (evenly on both sides) and proceed to burp the system to get the air bubble out.

bailey bill

Well, yeah, sucking it out of the reservoir is kinda pointless.

The correct procedure is flush the old fluid out of the system (through the bleeders) by pushing fresh, clean fluid in behind it. And it really needs to be done for the clutch hydraulic system also.

The reason is brake fluid absorbs moisture. And over time the moisture condenses out and causes rust and pitting in the system. Since the moisture settles out at the lowest level, the damage usualy occurs in the calipers, and in the slave cylinder.

bill

zzz350

good info, the high priced recommended service is just another way for the manufacturer and dealerships to make $. Most of the stuff is pointless, I think the manufacturers try to imply that you will jeopardize your warranty if you don't do them. I don't think that is even legal to have your warranty voided because you miss a 30K or 60K service. Just keep good records of the work you do (like keep receipts for oil and filters you buy and make a log of the oil changes and other fluids you have installed).

bjr

I was going to "flush" my coolant yet this year. What can I do at home that would be better than what the service manual says - flush is to put water back in and start it up then drain it agiain before putting back in coolant mix. I know to use special water but I do have a nice air compressor. What is the procedure for a thorough flush??

kaybee650

iTrader: (3)

go to san leandro nissan the price is 264 for the 30k tune up , i went there yesterday,, somewhere in that range

bleufiend

iTrader: (4)

I put a edit in my post to try and clear up what I was saying. When we do a flush at the dealer, classic nissan at least in orlando, we drain all the coolant out of the radiator and then close the drain, lower it and then proceed with the airlift.

Im not sure if you can rent a airlift but I dont think your going to want to buy one, I have a snap on kit in my box and it cost $250 (but I usually use it like 5- 6 times a week so its payed me back already). You may be able to rent one from discount auto or something but Im not sure.

Now if you want to get a total flush of your coolant you may have to do the drain and refill a couple times, drain and refill it, drive like a couple hundred miles just to be safe, drain and fill it again, and that should get most of the old coolant out. If your really pesimistic about getting it all out do it a third time. Without taking out the drainplug on the radiator, and the 2 that I believe are on the VQ35DE there is no real way to get all of it out unless you have some sort of flush machine that will force the new coolant in the inlet side and pull the old coolant out.

bleufiend

iTrader: (4)

Very true, this is the way I prefer to flush mine, we have a machine that will actually put a small amount of pressure on a resorvoir of brake fluid connected by a line to the reservoir on top of the master cylinder, we can then lift the car in the air and bleed each line one at a time to get it all out. I thought it was pretty cool the first time I used that machine.

NissanZfan

iTrader: (3)

A post worth while right here.

bjr

I'm not really worried about how much old is left, more that any scale or whatever gets flushed out. I used to take my Ford in every few years and pay for a power flush but I don't see the point of a power flush if I do a plain water flush every 2 years on the Z at home per the service manual. I don't expect there will be any/much buildup. I googled airlift and saw nothing relating to automotive. Are you guys hooking it up to one of those flushing machines that pumps out old and fills new with no air bubbles?? What you described sounded a little different actually.

bjr

I was convinced this year that the positive pressure method may be the best for bleeding brakes as there is no chance of damaging the master cylinder by doing pumping methods or letting air in around the bleeders by using a vacuum method. I bought a SpeediBleed kit. There is another one made by Motive Products that I considered but the SpeediBleed looked nicer and the guy I contacted to buy it was an awesome help on picking it out to make sure it fit the Z. I haven't tried it yet but did a test fit of the adapters. I have 38k in just under 2 years so I am holding off to see if the brake pads will go out soon otherwise I will be just bleeding becuase it is time to do it by the end of the year. Thought I would just wait and do both at the same time. If I have some time soon I'm going to put the adapters on the master cylinders and do a pressure test to make sure they fit the Z properly. PM me if you want part numbers of what I ordered.

bleufiend

iTrader: (4)

All an airlift kit is this. It has a couple of different fittings to screw, and seal onto where the radiator cap goes, on top of that you put a t fitting with a gauge, one side of the t has a air compressor hookup, the other two sides usually are just plastic lines, one of them you drop into your coolant that you want sucked in, the other is the exhaust for the air. The way it works is you open the valve on the air hose and the air rushing past the top of the radiator begins to suck it out and make a vacuum, you watch your gauge till it either hits green or just count to 30 seconds. I then stop it, watch the gauge to make sure it doesnt lose pressure, if it does then that means I have a radiator leak. If it doesnt then I open the valve to the coolant line and walla, it sucks all the coolant into the radiator and you have no air bubbles since its under vacuum.

bjr

Thanks for the details!