So the most basic of answers to your question is don't spin your tires purposely. It doesn't make you any faster, the torque spikes will cause problems throughout the drivetrain, it can seriously hurt your LSD, and most obviously screws your tires.

 

Yup!

What he said.

bill

 

This has been discussed to death. There are so many variables. Tires, driver technique, road surface, etc.
Back in 96-97 I actively participated in all the local autocross events I could and raced 2 complete seasons. I had a chance to pay a little money for a class of 10 drivers and have one on one instruction from a copule of national competitors. They taught us a lot on driving smooth around a track. When I thought I couldn't learn much more the guys had me shaving 2-3 seconds off a 45 second track!
At the end of the day I asked one of them about wheel hop. Without hesitating he said that is because you let out the clutch too fast for the conditions and shocked the drivetrain/tires. Be smooth.

So last night I was reading the Road and Track article with the 07 G35 Sport vs. an Acura and Lexus IS350. They did not like the clutch in the G at all because it worked like "an on/off switch." I have not paid attention after getting my 05 Z but does an 07 G still carry the exact drivetrain? I thought there were some subtle changes to the clutch feel in 06. Anyway, under the right conditions an on/off clutch response will definately add to the long list of things that cause wheel hop on our cars. Also the point is, if you diminish all the other causes you will still have diffuculty feathering the clutch if the conditions call for it.

BTW if it was not mentioned above in this post yet again, many of us believe that street tires are designed to an extent to re-grab under spinning conditions so that is working against you too.

With stock tires the most effective way seems to launch 3K rpm or above. If you break the tires loose immediatley . But this comes up on how to do a rolling burnout, not launch properly for drag racing. Anything less than 3k and clutch dump results in wheel hop. Different tires will affect the rpm and the technique needed to avoid wheel hop. With all of the other stuff like the suspension, road, etc. you may not be able to avoid it in all situations no matter how good you are.

 

Fact is if you want to spin them just add water, HAHA

 

NOT an accurate statement. I drag raced Mustangs for alot of years. The most popular mod to a Cobra that is used for Drag Racing is to replace the Independent Rear with a live rear form a GT. IRS is a BIG problem with traction when "burning out". Ask any Cobra owner that as revved up to, lets say 6 grand and dumped it what his axels looked like after the back end started jumping up in the air, lol. This is also a problem in the Corvette. (Just sold mine to buy my Z You can easily crack your diff. if not careful. These cars (including the Cobra) are designed for road racing NOT drag racing. IRS is great for twisties and such but way inferior to the old fashion live axel for straight line dumping the clutch and spinnin the tires!

 

I have 275's on a stock motor with just a K&N filter and I can light them up just fine...

You have to learn how to load your drive train first before dumping the clutch (and you really shouldnt do that either).

To help practice you should try doing a burnout from a rolling start in first gear. With your car at idle and engaged in first (5mph roll), lightly press the brake with the clutch fully engaged and give it WOT, should start spinning no problem with no hop.

Cars with drive shafts sometimes have some play in between the rear dif and the trans, so all youre really doing when dumping the clutch is torque'ing the driveshaft.

I have a 03 Cobra as well, my brother gets it top hop like it his job. I had a 2003 Accord V6 coupe 6 speed before my Z and you could do it with that also.

There are a lot of variables that go into it.. I.E. Weight over the drive wheels, launch RPM, Load and suspension dampening and rebound.

Its fun to do the rolling burnout, and once you get it right, the only thing its really bad for is your tires and your wallet....

 

traction control and the limited slip do not do the same thing... all the limited slip is doing is puttin power to both of the real wheels equally so you dont get the one wheel peel. traction off enables you to drive your car without any computer aids allowing you to burnout, drift, or slam through gears without any throttle cut. otherwise you try slamming into 2nd from 1st with the TCS on at a high RPM your car is going to buck, lose power for a second to prevent wheel spin and then continue to accelerate...

dont take my statement the wrong way. maybe i read something outta context... just tryin to be helpful and clarify something

 

Bleach!

 

I have a 35th (stock).

With a pair of Potenzas on the rear, and travelling at 20 miles per hour, I was able to punch it, without clutch, and it would rev to redline and easily remain there in a drift. I did that once, when a guy, with a supposedly hot car, was taunting me at a red light. However, spinning tires gets really expensive when you have to payout more than $350 apiece for new tires. I now have Michelin Pilot Sports on the rear, and the temptation to showoff is now veeery minimal.
Attachment 130100

 

that is a very interesting method. Pretty foolproof, huh?
I'm thinking though that it seems like sometimes you would have enough traction and this would not result in tires spinning. Is dragging the brakes a little at first the key?
Although I don't plan on doing burnouts that often it would be nice to have a method down. When my tires get worn down I wanted to try a nice smokey standing burnout but discovered recently even on a base model I have the feature with the brake and gas pressed at the same time causes the huge cut in power so I would also need to pull my brake fuse like everyone else.

Does your method result in enough loss of traction to light 'em up in smoke?? dumping the clutch at 3k at a stop sign is fun to peel through 1st and 2nd going sideways half the time but no smoke! Plus to eliminate wheel hop you really need to dump it quick. I'm not any more interested in feathering the crap out of the clutch than I am shocking the drivetrain like that so I just kind of loose interest in having this type of fun. Your method sounds very easy on the car but can't imagine the car having enough power to do this from what I recall. I punch it all of the time in 1st WOT after I get going a few MPH and it goes fast but no traction loss.

 

What kind of tires cost $350?

 

These. This is what I have on the rear.... 245/45ZR18

Pricing:

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache...s&ct=clnk&cd=1

The writeup:

http://www.michelinman.com/overview/..._a_s/1035.html

 

june - OK. I've looked at those before. As a matter of fact I just had an alignment done and the Nissan tech told me to get those Michelins next time because they are the best choice on the fronts for resisting uneven tire wear. I never knew that there was about $100 or more price increase for the 18's vs. the 17's. One more reason I love my base model I guess I really wouldn't be doing burnouts on those either. I stopped when I got my Goodyear Eagle F1's in the back and thought those were a little expensive. One summer and they are down to the wear bars with no burnouts!

 

yes, go ahead and remove your LSD, it is obvious you got the car because it is "cool" to do burn-outs rather than having better traction than most cars out there.

 

Attachment 130196 The Potenzas {on the rear} would be my absolute worst choice in wet weather. I had them on the Z on the way to AR, this past late July, and ran into a lot of bad weather. They rode over water like a boat on ice. Even the TDC couldn't prevent me having a few very hair-raising moments.

Attachment 130197 I believe that my Michelins saved my life back in early November on my way back home to CT (I had the Michelins installed at the dealer in Fayetteville, AR). It was deer mating season, and deer parts were all over the place all the way home. I was behind a semi in the fog and rain, when it hit a live deer crossing the road. The deer passed under the truck and all I remember was seeing it's head still up, when I went over it. The car went about a foot in the air and came down onto the road, never losing control. I had to drive an additional 14 hours, and never realized that the front end went out of alignment (towing out). When I got home I brought it to the dealer and they realigned it, but the front tires wore on the inside, and now make a loud rumble most of the time. I need to remove them from the rims (they have directional arrows) and swap them side to side, to cut down on the noise...hopefully as soon as I get a chance. The Potenzas on the front (225/45 18's)...
Attachment 130200
...were like new. It is such a shame, but then again, I am still alive. Yippee!!!

Next year's mods Attachment 130201:
Attachment 130202

 

I'm not quite sure what the thread is about either,

1, smoke show type burnouts. (IE brake assisted)
2, just dumping the clutch and lighting them up.


My Z still has the pos stock tires on the back and (I live way out in the sticks) I dumped it around 4 grand at a deserted 4 way stop and the wheel spin didn't stop until I hit about 5000 in 3rd, and then it dumped down about 1500rpm because the tires started to grip and I was off. Car started to skate sideways when I shifted to second but you guys make it sound like it barely wants to burn out in first and second.

like I said I have the **** stock tires so maybe the Z can't lay it down that much with good tires.

 

actually i got the car as a prerequiste to getting a z06. The 350z is my first car, rather than SUVs and trucks ive had in the past, and I got it so I could get a little experience with a 300hp car rather than jumping into a 405hp monster. Before I got the car I wasnt a 350Z fan as much as I am now. I didnt get it to be cool. I was hesitant at first because I never thought i would own an import, but after the 20k miles ive put on her with zero problems I may reconsider an import after my thrills with a z06

 

+1

 

BJR..

If you are light on the brakes they will break lose easily. Works everytime. just dont get too hot on the brakes because the rear brakes are clamping too. Just tap it in. Taaappp it in.. Tap tap tappp it in..

 

I went from stock suspension with massive wheel hop to improved dampeners and springs and all teh wheelhop went away. As a matter of fact, I get wheel hop when I get too much traction now. If i launch right above the point of too much traction, i get lightwheel spin and eventually grip. With too much traction, i'll only acelerate when the tires are touching the ground, which is not too often, so you can see why launching above that point is better