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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

why is LSD (Limited slip Diff) so important on an entus 350Z versus a base 350Z??

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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #21  
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Kind of funny, my base 08 350z has no LSD but my 98 4runner has a e-locker on rear. I guess these are kind of the same? I could always add a LSD to the Z. How much would this cost give or take?
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by masphx
Kind of funny, my base 08 350z has no LSD but my 98 4runner has a e-locker on rear. I guess these are kind of the same? I could always add a LSD to the Z. How much would this cost give or take?
Like $1800 installed.

Edit: Maybe less: http://www.importpartspro.com/nilisldi07ni.html

Last edited by xNeo; Dec 6, 2011 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by titanium777
Great definition. Although the stock VLSD on the Z's aren't exactly top notch
tis why alot of people buy base models nowadays because they can get a base model a little cheaper and lighter and they know they are going to upgrade the diff anyways to something substantially better than the viscous. at least thats what quite a few people i know did.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #24  
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Wow, how are so many people confused as to what an LSD does.

Here's a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4JhruinbWc Probably one of the best explanations in history and it's from the 1930s...

Base model does not come with VDC which is very nice(It still has TCS) and lack of VLSD allows the consumer to purchase their own. These two "options" from the base model lend to a better car if initial plans are to race.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #25  
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^^ wow that video was so freaking good!!
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #26  
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hahaha... can't win for losing:

Ask a question that has been answered a thousand times? = Called out by Regulars for not using Search

- OR -

Use search to find and reply to 8 year old thread? = Called out by Regulars for Necromancing old posts

... probably just me, but it made me laugh. Looks like he got the answers he was looking for, though.

Also, great video link!

Last edited by SparkleCityHop; Dec 10, 2011 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 05:18 PM
  #27  
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Buy a Quaife diff.
/thread
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #28  
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More Spokes!
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SparkleCityHop
hahaha... can't win for losing:
+1 don't ask what has been asked but if you do don't regurgitate old stuff.

very interesting vid.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 06:41 AM
  #30  
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Awesome video!

Now where's one for how a LIMITED slip works?
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SoulDesign
Awesome video!

Now where's one for how a LIMITED slip works?
Ha, right?

This is a good one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIGvh...eature=related

Last edited by xNeo; Dec 14, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #32  
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Actually... Base models come w/o any of the electrical driver assists (with the sole exception of ABS), so no TCS. Also, speaking of ABS, that's what those 2 sensors by the rear axles are. The diffs sense torque differently depending on what type they are and how they're set up.

And like somebody said: I would recommend getting a base if you plan on doing a pretty in depth build, since it's all stuff that's coming off anyways. Otherwise, if you're going to only do simple bolt-ons and make it pretty, go for one w/ the VLSD, sure it's crap, but it beats an open diff.

And for the whole live/solid axle debate. You're arguing 2 different things, and the problem is that the terms have become somewhat interchangeable due to marketing. A live real axle in the sense of the mustangs is that the wheels don't go up and down independently, hence the IRS argument. But some people call those solid rear axles. The same goes inverse for the solid drive gear vice a differential gear. It happens, oh well. No need to call BS on other people's info thou, if the info is otherwise right on.

Also, a diff isn't that hard to install either, so I'd say get a good one for 800-1200 bucks, and save the extra few hundred bucks by doing it urself. The only "special" tools you need are a micrometer and some prussian blue. Other than that, just ur basic tools and jackstands. It's a straight forward install as long as you have all the required torque specs and clearances on a sheet of paper that you can cross-reference.

Props to OP thou for using the search function. Especially since I've been guilty a few times of being lazy and not using it

That's pretty much the end of my rant... ... I think lol
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