LA-Z

Also, I being a Car Retard, cannot change my own oil *ducking rotten tomatoes and hiding head in shame* would it be ok to have it changed at a Jiffy Lube or should it be at dealer, or should I suck up and learn how to change my damn oil? If I do Jiffy, do I bring my own oil, and should I use synthetic or regular. ENOUGH with the dumb quesitons, thanks doods.

WP Gaston

I am not planning on changing MY own oil. We live in a service economy. My job in the hierarchy of Western Civilization is to work like a slave, accumulate enough dinero to be able to get a new Z, and then write a check for someone else to change my oil. Then, there are TWO happy people.

Alang

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing inherently wrong with the quick lube places, its the dufuses that work there. There was a quick lube near my house that had a great guy working there. I took my Z32 there all the time. I watched very closely everytime, and talked with the Mech. I would only let him work on my car, so it was alright.

However my wife took her car to a uick lube place near where she worked, and they use dthe wrong size socket on the drain plug and stripped it. Of course they wouldn't own up to it (which was worse that stripping the plug in my book), so I had to take it to the Volvo dealership for repairs). Its a crap-shoot unless you know someone.

The trick with those places is that you have to know what you are doing so you can watch what they are doing. Believe me, changing you own oil is simple. The hardest part is finding a place to recycle your old oil.

When I do my first oil change I plan on photo documenting it for a how-to write-up for this site (if its not already done), so there will be easy step by step procdures on what to do.

NSANY

At the rate at which Zs are making it to the East Coast, I think I'll be changing the oil in my Pathfinder three more times at 3,000 mile intervals EACH before my Z shows up...

Seriously though, I think the jury is still out on the oil issue. Some camps will tell you to change it after 3,000 miles with castor oil, and move to synthetic after the 2nd change. Once you're on synthetic, don't change back to castor.

This can be a problem, as your local Jiffy Lube place will probably either screw up if you don't tell them, or charge you an arm and a leg for Mobil 1.

To answer your question, if you MUST use a quickie lube place, I'd hazard against bringing your own oil (the guy will probably give you a confused look), and be CLEAR that you want either castor or synthetic (and be prepared to pay through the nose for synthetic). Also, bring a filter from your dealer. Despite what people tell you, there IS a difference. (Fram sucks)

Also, be sure they're putting the correct viscosity (5W-30 from what I read). I'd hate to see the same thing happen to your Z like what happened to all those $52,000 M3's that didn't get the required 10W-60...

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Alang: I think that is a great idea. I have changed the oil in my cars but I'll be clueless as to where everything is on the Z. That would make a great tutorial.

The filter may be hard to get to without ramps to drive up on to get under it however.

Hell, maybe it's Jiffy Lube after all............

NissaNZ

Hey guys how much does a normal synthetic oil change let's say 4-6 quarts cost?

John

iTrader: (17)

I will NEVER have anyone work on my car unless I trust them... and that amounts to only 6 people: Mike G and James (CDE), Kenny (Moore), my friends Misa and Dave, and myself. I've seen way too many things go wrong, especially at a "quick lube" place... As for changing oil, these places screw up usually by stripping the screw, using the wrong oil, and / or forgeting to put the oil cap back on... Find a mechanic you trust, and take it to them. I personally don't change my oil since it's such a hassle to find a place to recycle it in my area... plus it really only costs me $5-7 more to have somebody else to it for me...

rai

I have had problems with jiffy lube on more than one occasion, so I won't bring my Z there. Also they are really slow to get filters for new cars. My V6 passat was out a year and they were still not stocking them. My Z3 they charged me like $9 extra because it was a specialty fitler. Once they put an oil filter on incorrectly and I had to change the oil again at the dealer at my own cost. So my vote is no for jiffy lube.

The Lube center is OK so far, but also has problems with newer oil filters so the dealer may be the best place.



I plan on my first oil change at 1200 miles (after the break in period. stay with non synthetic until the first recomended change (either 3000 or 5000 mi) then switch to synthetic.

bobbyz

iTrader: (1)

They will have the filter. I would put money on it that it is the same filter found in the 3.5 Maxima, Altima, QX4, Pathfinder etc.

NSANY

Just to set the record straight (not that anyone cared ), I always change my own oil. And like another member pointed out, NO ONE touches my car for servicing unless I trust them 110%.

Jiffy Lube doesn't qualify as someone I trust.

rai

You might think so, but they are really freakey if the code is not in their computers they won't substitute say a pathfinder filter. I can't say I blame them because who knows if the filters are interchangable yet?

LA-Z

OK, so seeing as how I won't have time/ability to change my own oil, and I don't mind paying to have it done does anyone know a reliable place in L.A. that they would get it done at? Any more info on when to use Synthetics?

infinite z

Yeah what do you guys think about the first oil change? My friend is a motorhead who's owned a cobra and another sports car, and he told me I should switch to a blend after 250-300 miles and then do a full change to synthetic after 1000 miles. Seems pretty extreme to me, but he swears it's the best way to break in the seals. Any opinions?

chicago350z

i've heard from a friend (who works as a tech for honda) that the oil removed from the first oil change is almost metallic in color. he explains this as the break in of the new engine components, i.e. spurs or what have you, that are left on newly manufactured parts. he, however, recommends changing the oil after 1,000 mi initially and then 3000 after that.

DBZ

Do not change your motor oil until the recommended 3750 miles for severe conditions (Which is pretty much everyone who drives in an urban area). There are special additive that are in your motor oil from the factory to assist with break in and you should not be dumping this oil. I work for a car company (competitor to Nissan) and if Nissan does as good a job in building their engines as. . .say some other import brands headquartered in Torrance then you're not going to find hunks of metal shavings in your engine to screw things up.

As for getting an oil change done. Just go to a Nissan dealer. $20 max for an oil change with an OEM filter. In a perfect world you personally, would be changing the oil, however I would NEVER trust a quick lube place. It's bad enough trying to have faith in the local dealerships. It would be a good idea to find a reputable independent mechanic that specializes in Nissan products that is not a part of some nation-wide franchise or chain.

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

I'll stick to stock oil at 500mi and 1200mi.... at 3000mi, I'll switch to synthetic (I don't know if they still call it that).

timer44

I've been using various quick places for my older cars for years. I used to do it all myself, but the difference in cost got to be low enough the for 6 bucks, I decided to let someone else do it.

In So Cal, I like EZ-LUBE. They do push for alot of extra service (same as most other places) but their basic oil change service is the best I've found. Don't know if they're local, or regional, or national. But my local place (Whittier, CA) has well trained techs who have done what it takes to get the right filter fo rmy '72 240.

I gave them a link to this thread because in my opinion, they've earned it. What they do is up to them. I hope I'm right about this company. I'm not uninterested, I'm disinterested. No stocks, not an employee, not even a friend of any one who is. I'll most likely give them a shot next Spring... WHEN I FINALLY GET MY ROADSTER!!!

Zoro

Guys, and I think Dr. Bonz will agree with me that castor oil should only be used if you car is constipated.

For longer engine life I would recommend castrol over it any day of the week.