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Yeah i bought the v3 extreme bulk pack. I got left over sheets im gonna tackle the glove box areas or the doors. I dont have enough for both so im debatting on which to do first.
Is it worth the money? I read up on it a little bit and watched a few videos. It reduces about 10db from what ive seen in the videos. The vehicles they used were 116db without and 105db. Which is insanely high since osha recommends ear plugs at 96db here in NY for construction sites. That seemed pretty loud to me lol. Looking forward to a review after youre finished
Got the rear Bilstein's installed, also got everything pulled apart and cleaned up for the sway-bar bushings and links to be done this weekend.
The upper bolt on both front links was too much to get broken loose (lower bolts were easy) so I pulled the front sway bar and did it on the bench. Made things 100% easier.
I'm not looking forward to trying to torque this stuff back down while the vehicle is parked on flat ground...
Yeah i bought the v3 extreme bulk pack. I got left over sheets im gonna tackle the glove box areas or the doors. I dont have enough for both so im debatting on which to do first.
If you do the doors, do yourself a HUGE favor and only cover the area you need to remove to get to the window motor and regulator. Also, don't cover any of the bolts or access points. It takes a while to cut around these, but I was really glad I did it that way the first time I had to replace my window motor... and the second time.
FWIW, it's a good idea to cover what you can in the inner door panel and it makes the car sound like a Mercedes when you shut the door. I also added about a square foot of material on the door skins right behind where the front speakers go. It worked out great.
I tackled the rear upper shock mounts this past weekend. I do not know how you guys ever got the bushings installed because I could not for the life of me thread the nut to the spindle with the KYB bushings. Even without the top metal ring remove, I was not able to get a single thread in. So I just installed the bottom bush and left the stop top bush. Maybe is because I have Monroe shocks (don't kill me i got these before I started to wrench and would have gotten something better today)
I then noticed the top gasket to the shocks were both gone. I had prepared for this by buying some gasket material and cutting it to fit. Then I greased up everything that had metal to rubber contacts with silicone grease; reassembled everything.
The outcome:
The first night I took the car out I still had all the plastic trim removed from my trunk. I immediately noticed the clicking that I had heard went away. However, after some extended driving I noticed there was still noise from the rear, while a lot fainter and no more clicking, the sound was still noticeable especially while accelerating.
At that point I was kind of beat down by this problem and decided I'm going to try to dynamat it in the future or just ingore it for. So I decided to reassemble all the plastics and put everything back together.
I then took it for a drive after everything went back together, while I was doing that I had noticed that the balancing weights on one of my wheels fell off. I then realized I probably shouldn't have waxed the wheel right before the tire was mounted. I just got back from the Tire shop after gettting it balanced; so far I have not heard anymore noise from the rear. I'm not too optimistic about this yet however it seems very promising. I will provide an update if it comes back. For now I think I am pretty set.
Yeah, that needs to go on the car. Otherwise, the inner sleeve (on the upper right of the photo) isn't going to fit properly. Admittedly, it's a helluva squeeze to get everything to fit. I ended up pulling up on the shaft until it would clear everything and then quickly attached the top shaft nut so that everything wouldn't just come apart again. After that, I had to use two wrenches; an adjustable on the top of the shaft to keep it from rotating and a box wrench on the shaft nut until it was torqued down to spec.
The shaft nut will eventually bottom out on the metal inner sleeve, which is why you really need to have both of the rubber mounts attached. They will compress to where the sleeve becomes the solid contact point between the center nut and the rest of the shock assembly. It's possible that the Monroe doesn't have a long enough shaft, but that's easy enough to figure out by comparing it to the OEM part.
Edit:
Using the OEM part is fine. To be honest, the thought had crossed my mind more than a few times while I was trying to get the KYB part to compress.
Everything looks really good, especially the headlights. I'm curious. What did you use to restore them?..
Turtle wax headlight restoration kit, comes with oxidation removing compound, sanding/polishing pads, base and sealer. Cost $9.00 at advanced auto. Just uses purple power for engine bay, still more to do but i got cold and water kept freezing lol.
Not what *I* did to my Z33 today, what someone else did.... got waaaayy too close to it either pulling into the red zone in front of my house or backing into space behind me. 1 foot x 1.5 foot paint scrape and light dent on driver door. I have my suspicions who.... waiting for them to pull up as they always do so I can look at their bumpers.
F'ers..... no note, of course. Again, gotta get off this street! And I'm trying but nothing in a reasonable price/condition bracket selling. Ehhhhhh....
I did my whole trunk area recently, it helped a little, but not a massive difference.
You are absolutely right. I did my entire interior when I did my audio project. In the end the real difference was when I changed my tires to hankooks . Tires make a bigger difference than the best quality dynamat
12-16-2017, 06:52 AM
