what are your intentions for the door handles?

 

Right now i think they look good non-wraped so i may keep them like this.
Will see when the car is done.

 

back when i had my Z, i hated how the silver looked on black... so i took them to a body shop and had them sprayed

 

HNY MY350Z.com

 

Drove it yesterday, it really didn't appreciate the snow.

 

Same. Thankfully undercoated and ceramic coated and car wash every chance i get. Still upsetting though

 

I rebuilt the brembos I’d bought last summer yesterday. Mounted them today with new ss lines, and stop tech aerorotors at all 4 corners. Still not sure if every thing is bleed right. When I took it out to bed the pads in the rears never seemed to get much heat in them.

 

about time someone uploaded a decent rear bearing change diy. do a complete write up with more pics.

 

did you do outside to in on the fronts? plus always bleed the farthest caliper first then work your way back to the master.

 

Yep. Started right rear, left front, left rear, right front. Outside then inside bleeder valves. When I went back around the 2nd time it was weird. I got a crap ton of air out of the left rear inside valve. Idk just might buy a power bleeder.

 

You'll be bleeding the car forever if you don't.

 

A month ago I did my first brake job. As always if I go I go hard.Took the rotors off, soaked them in Evapo Rust, painted it with brake caliper paint. After a few weeks the paint has held up pretty good, however it took a lot of time and I would suggest buying better calipers instead of doing this yourself.

 

I just got a mityvac 8000, I plan to swap out the brakes when the weather gets better. Hopefully it does the trick.

 

My experience with the vacuum bleeder on the 350Z was less than thrilling. You really need to use a positive pressure power bleeder like the kind Motive makes:

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-3-tab-adapter

I'd go with the "Black Label" version. They offer a cheaper version for about $20 less, but it doesn't come with the mid-line disconnect, which is actually quite useful, and the more expensive version uses a nice billet aluminum reservoir cap, which secures to the master cylinder beautifully.

 

delete - double post

 

The piece for the master cylinder would make life easier, I got a little excited about a 25% off at harbor freight but once I arrived I couldn't find anything I wanted or needed ao I went with the mityvac. Ive never used anything fancy for brake bleeding before just a tube and a glass jar. I figured anything would be a vast improvement.

 

My experience with the Z is that it hates to be bled using traditional methods. Forcng fluid nto the system from the reservoir with the Motive has worked each time without any hassle though. Nissans in general seem to be that way for some reason (i.e, pulling the ABS relay on my wife’s Rogue before you can bleed it using... yup, a vacuum bleeder.). Some of the newer models require a brake controller reset after they’ve been bled.

 

The Z also recommends disconnecting the negative battery terminal or disconnecting the abs actuator connectors.

 

I've never seen that on the FSM for the Z, but I believe you, given my experience with the Rogue. I've found it's just easier to disconnect the ABS system than it is to disconnect the battery and then have to deal with reprogramming the stereo.

 

Little more of this.