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Pretty cool photo there. How long did it take you to drop the rear subframe complete like that?
Not too long really... maybe an hour or so and I had it out from under the car. I'm replacing every bushing including the sub frame bushings... just thought it'd be easier than fighting everything under the car lol.
Originally Posted by BluestreamDE
Looks like a party!, missing beer and pizza tho...
lol Rockstars and Pizza... I don't drink anymore..
The lower plenum is almost finished. I need to port the first half(entrance) of the runners. Any tips to get in there? I can't seem to find a way with my 3'' long Dremel flap wheels.
^
I can't tell you how many times an angle grinder has saved my life.
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On another note, I put in the Nismo S-tune and midpipe. The sound is nice but it could still use the volume of a new midpipe and HFC's. But compared to my old rotten OEM exhaust, it's amazing. Here are some comparison pics for fun.
Last edited by Cracka350; Dec 11, 2018 at 01:24 PM.
Finally finished the lower plenum. I used a 6'' mandrel, 2'' small keyless chuck and sanding rolls to get further in. Also finished the aluminum battery mount for the 15lb braille battery.
Well last night on my drive home from visiting my brother I bottomed out in his driveway, then about 1/4 mile from my house the car stalled when down shifting at a red light... So today I popped the hood expecting to see my air filter eaten by mice again, but all seems to be intact. So I think im going to go ahead and clean the maf sensor and hope for the best.
Well last night on my drive home from visiting my brother I bottomed out in his driveway, then about 1/4 mile from my house the car stalled when down shifting at a red light... So today I popped the hood expecting to see my air filter eaten by mice again, but all seems to be intact. So I think im going to go ahead and clean the maf sensor and hope for the best.
Probably not a coincidence. You might've clipped you crank sensor or some **** like that. Hey, here's a tip. Chop off the bend in your intake pipe that's behind your air filter for moar powa. It's not as if you'll be drawing anymore hot air than you are now.
Have you gotten it tuned since you installed your breather mods? My idle used to drop a little bit and then bounce back up after the majority of my mods. Once I got it tuned, zero problems.
Finally finished the lower plenum. I used a 6'' mandrel, 2'' small keyless chuck and sanding rolls to get further in. Also finished the aluminum battery mount for the 15lb braille battery.
Nice port wrk. R U driving the Z during the winter? Do you think you'll be good with that battery?
No tune because Massachusetts has strict emissions testing, but car has been in its current configuration for about 2 years now and this was the first time it stalled on me.
It's also been sitting for about 3 weeks unused, and it was like 30degrees outside...
I always bottom out in my brothers driveway, its amazing the bottom of my lip has anything left.
My idle is always low, I should probably just put the stock air box back in and cal it a day. I really could care less about any more power, im lame.
No tune because Massachusetts has strict emissions testing, but car has been in its current configuration for about 2 years now and this was the first time it stalled on me.
It's also been sitting for about 3 weeks unused, and it was like 30degrees outside...
I always bottom out in my brothers driveway, its amazing the bottom of my lip has anything left.
My idle is always low, I should probably just put the stock air box back in and cal it a day. I really could care less about any more power, im lame.
Your idle is probably jacked because the fans R right there and blowing air onto your filter. Happened to me 2 until I built a box.
Take a piece of cardboard and slam it in there to separate your filter from the fans and see what happens. If it works, and it should, then get a piece of ABS and replace the cardboard with that. It's what limp mode tuning did.
Last edited by onevq35de; Dec 15, 2018 at 06:45 AM.
Nice port wrk. R U driving the Z during the winter? Do you think you'll be good with that battery?
Thanks. Z hasn't ran in 3 months since I last had it running when I moved. The battery did fine though being left in the car for a week before getting started. I found the 15lb to be a good compromise between weight and battery life.
Your in FL which isn't all that different from where I'm at in Charlotte, NC. How long have you had the battery and do you dd the Z? I ask because it's about time for a new battery. I appreciate your input.
Decided to take off the rest of the unneeded brackets after removing the passenger fuel rail extension. Gotta have the PCV tube welded shut now.
Originally Posted by onevq35de
Your in FL which isn't all that different from where I'm at in Charlotte, NC. How long have you had the battery and do you dd the Z? I ask because it's about time for a new battery. I appreciate your input.
I've only had it for about 5 months. It's not on DD duties anymore, it will be driven once or twice a week now. I chose the B2015 after reading on numerous batteries as its half the weight of oem without many fallbacks and I didn't wanna have to worry about keeping the battery on a tender every day for an extra 8? pound loss.
That fuel rail extension is unnecessarily heavy. Thanks for the feedback MB.
My typical Everstart Maxx 640 cca weighs in at 36lbs so a 15lb battery would be swell.
Last edited by onevq35de; Dec 15, 2018 at 03:58 PM.
Installed new SoulFunction bar and Zino guard system. Also pictured is a Top Secret (shh) oil cap and JWT pop charger. Not seen is the Z1 plenum spacer.
Where did you get this? Could really use this over here in Canada.
AAA/CAA sells battery tenders. They have a few different ones, I have one it works pretty good I hook it up to my spare battery and my lawn mower battery every month or so...
Costco also has them and I believe they are on sale currently...
Im sure Amazon has them also. Just look up battery tender jr, or battery tender plus. They come with all the wiring for installation.
