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Dynoed at 1079 whp
ran 5.48 @ 134 mph, 1/8 mile pass( due to high wind)
snapped the passenger side driveshaft shoppro axle.
Bought billet replacements.
Clutch engagement / pedal feel. I'm just used to the stiffer / raw feeling of my 240SX, and this is almost too "friendly" haha
Yeah....that's the OEM clutch pedal. The assist spring is overpowered and nearly completely deadens the feel of the clutch bite point. If it really starts to bug you, just swap it out for the RJM pedal (so much better IMO).
Cheers!
-Icer
-BC Racing DS Series Coils, with Swift Springs (standard 12k / 5k rates)
-SPC 73000 Front Upper Control Arms
-Voodoo13 Rear Camber arm
-Voodoo13 Rear Toe Arm
-NRG Hub
-NRG Quick Release
-Nardi 340mm Classic
-Dress Up Bolts Titanium Steering wheel bolts
-BC Racing DS Series Coils, with Swift Springs (standard 12k / 5k rates)
-SPC 73000 Front Upper Control Arms
-Voodoo13 Rear Camber arm
-Voodoo13 Rear Toe Arm
-NRG Hub
-NRG Quick Release
-Nardi 340mm Classic
-Dress Up Bolts Titanium Steering wheel bolts
finished my project yesterday.
This is what I did while it was down.
-JDM engine. (x2. The first one arrived broken).
-Silicone couplers and new clamps on all of the intake pieces,
-All hoses swapped to silicone.
-All fluids (trani, engine, diff, brake, clutch, power steering and radiator).
-All wires covered.
-Polished headlights.
-Polished wheels.
-Belts.
-Starter.
-Yellow top optima.
-Stillen grounding kit.
-Wrapped stainless headers.
-Stainless downpipes with high flow cats.
-Upper and lower oil pan, exhaust and valve cover gaskets.
-JWT clutch and lightweight flywheel.
-Pilot bushing.
-Stainless steel -braided clutch line.
-Throw out bearing.
-Polyurethane engine and transmission mounts.
-Spark plugs.
-Cam, crank, front o2, rear o2 and knock sensors.
-Kinetix intake plenum.
-z1 intake.
-z1 high energy coils.
-Fuel pump.
-Tubular front subframe.
-Mishimoto radiator, shroud and fans.
-Ac core.
-Evap solenoid.
-Aluminum valve covers.
-Rebuilt fuel injectors.
-Rear main seal.
-Fender liners.
It already had-
-Full stainless dual exhaust.
-True coilover conversion with fully adjustable coilovers.
-Kintetix front upper control arms.
-slp rear arms.
-Polyurethane diff bushing.
-z1 aluminum under shroud.
Last edited by StreetSports; 04-13-2023 at 06:57 PM.
I really like the braided wire loom wrap and ALU valve covers. Looks good! . Look into the idler pulley delete and consider getting the Mishimoto OCC kit. I've caught a good amount of nasty with mine.
Are you planning to get a tune for the bolt-ons?
Cheers!
-Icer
I really like the braided wire loom wrap and ALU valve covers. Looks good! . Look into the idler pulley delete and consider getting the Mishimoto OCC kit. I've caught a good amount of nasty with mine.
Are you planning to get a tune for the bolt-ons?
Cheers!
-Icer
Yes. there's a local z shop that will do 3 pulls and a tune for $400. That's the next stop after an alignment.
Interior panel paint stripping continues, but nearly done. All I have left is the center waterfall piece. The texture on these pieces makes the crappy black paint stick better than on the hard plastic. It could also be because Nissan actually used proper primer instead of a semi-gloss gray paint. You can clearly see that all the hard plastics have a semi-gloss gray paint NOT primer on them, this is one of the main reasons the black paint scrapes off so easily (also it's just crappy soft paint).
A few other things have happened in the past few weeks. My Z has been dropped off and returned to me from the body shop. The hood issues have been resolved and I'm happy with the results (no pics yet). I also received my custom shift **** from Lathewerks. I couldn't help myself with this purchase after seeing the beautiful work done on SPM350's ****. The weight is considerable (+150% over the OEM ****), because of this I picked up the Gktech shifter return spring kit, while I was at it, I also picked up the Gktech trans mount stiffener kit. I figure I'll knock out the install of both at the same time. Although I loved SPM's choice of ****, I changed things up a bit. I went with the modern/matching Z font over the classic style, and chose the brushed finish over the shot peen (I think it compliments the brushed aluminum). Sadly the tripple dots inside the Z didn't show up well with the laser etching, but they are kind of visible when looking at it just right.
That's about it for now. I've been busy with family time so progress has been slow. I have all the paint materials ready to go, I even purchased a heavy duty helping hand solder station to act as my painting stand for the interior pieces. After stripping is completed, I'll need to lightly sand some of the hard plastic pieces where the gray paint peeled, chipped, or cracked during the stripping process. This will add some additional prep time and may require primer to hide sanding marks or transition lines. Until next post.....Cheers!
-Icer
PICS! How you know it's hand crafted! Simple, elegant, & refined look. I like! Factory **** weighing in at 211 grams. Lathewerks stainless steel **** weighing in at 504 grams! Whoa! Paint stand test 1. Paint stand test 2. Paint stand test 3. All the interior pieces I have prepped so far. Notice the sheen/reflection on that gray paint? Can't get all the black paint off the textured pieces, but did good on the cubby lid!
What's the purpose of the tubular subframe?
Only downgrades are the Z1 intake and hoses, Intake isn't great and those hoses will look like crap soon.
The factory sub frame was cracked. I got lucky i caught it. It also relicates the rack and makes more clearance underneath. The intake was an upgrade from my aem one I had previously. I had the one that sucked from in front if the tire. I hit a deep puddle during a storm and sucked water up. Pushed a rod out the side if the block. For the hoses, they all look like crap eventually. I was more going for the thickness/strength.
Any kind of metal **** is an absolute no-go here in Las Vegas. It'll brand your palm the first time you touch it when it's 120 degrees outside. I always get Delrin. It feels like leather in your palm.
Originally Posted by DarkZ03
What's the purpose of the tubular subframe?
It's lighter than the factory subframe and just as stiff. It also relocates the steering rack for better geometry. I believe there's at least one that lowers the engine slightly for better CG.
Never seen one, ever. First time on a Z.
Eventually every hose looks old but damn I couldn't stand the silicone ones and they were ditched quite fast for new stock ones.
Any kind of metal **** is an absolute no-go here in Las Vegas. It'll brand your palm the first time you touch it when it's 120 degrees outside. I always get Delrin. It feels like leather in your palm.
Hey Cobra,
Good point! Yes, I have thought about the potential heat issues with a metal ****. Here in CA this isn't that big of a deal depending on the season and which part of CA you live in. Where I live and where I park the vehicle 95% of the time won't cause any heat issues inside the cabin or with the ****. Also, some good quality UV/IR window tint makes a huge difference here (must do front windshield, and yes that's illegal in CA). Worst case scenario, I can swap ***** out in the summer months or just throw a shade over it if I'm parking for hours in an uncovered/exposed area (Like visiting Laguna Seca!). The **** is countersunk/shorter than the stock one, so I may or may not like the ergonomics (being a tall guy). I haven't tried it out yet since I received the **** while the Z was still in the paint shop. I'll be doing some tinkering this coming weekend.
Cheers!
-Icer
Eventually every hose looks old but damn I couldn't stand the silicone ones and they were ditched quite fast for new stock ones.
I didn't want to point this out, but Dark already did. Thanks to his advice I avoided using the silicone hoses due to the sweating issues, I replaced with OEM EPDM rubber. I purchased a complete silicone set from CZP, but I see yours are from Z1. The Z1 Silicone hoses all show the sweating issues (AFAIK). It's not widely talked about, but from the research I've done, every 350Z with silicone Z1 hoses I have seen shows the sweating watermarks.
My buddy with a Z32TT replaced his radiator hoses with the CZP Silicone units and hasn't shown any signs of sweating. Maybe CZP uses a different mfg. process? or maybe my buddy just doesn't drive his Z32 enough to see the signs yet? I don't know. But it does appear that there are some good silicone hose kits and some not so good ones. Just understand the risks of using Silicone hoses if they sweat. You will need to top off your coolant system with distilled water on a more regular basis. The glycol stays behind in the cooling system, but the H2O escapes.
Cheers!
-Icer
I didn't want to point this out, but Dark already did. Thanks to his advice I avoided using the silicone hoses due to the sweating issues, I replaced with OEM EPDM rubber. I purchased a complete silicone set from CZP, but I see yours are from Z1. The Z1 Silicone hoses all show the sweating issues (AFAIK). It's not widely talked about, but from the research I've done, every 350Z with silicone Z1 hoses I have seen shows the sweating watermarks.
My buddy with a Z32TT replaced his radiator hoses with the CZP Silicone units and hasn't shown any signs of sweating. Maybe CZP uses a different mfg. process? or maybe my buddy just doesn't drive his Z32 enough to see the signs yet? I don't know. But it does appear that there are some good silicone hose kits and some not so good ones. Just understand the risks of using Silicone hoses if they sweat. You will need to top off your coolant system with distilled water on a more regular basis. The glycol stays behind in the cooling system, but the H2O escapes.
Cheers!
-Icer
I've been looking for examples but I only found a guy going from factory hoses to z1 hoses because the factory hose was leaking from the tip. He had already swapped it once. I did notice mine got water spots very easily when splashed with water.
04-03-2023, 05:19 PM
. Look into the idler pulley delete and consider getting the Mishimoto OCC kit. I've caught a good amount of nasty with mine.
