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Up-sizing front underbody brace bolts from M10-1.25 to M12-1.25
After replacing the RF compression rod arm a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that 2 of the underbody brace bolts were stripped when I tried to reattach the brace. These are M10-1.25 bolts that fasten the brace to the body There are 6 used on the aftermarket brace (vs. 8 on the OE brace) and then also 2 nuts that fasten at the bushing/post at the rear of the compression rod arm.
I decided to up-size these to M12-1.25 thread, so I ordered a tap from Amazon and then drilled the proper 27/64" hole through the stripped M10 threads in the body and tapped the new threads. Everything fastened fine, and based on the torque calculator I found online, I had to increase the fastening torque from ~46ft-lbs to ~55ft-lbs on the new, larger bolts to get the same tension in the connection.
I did all this to cure a slight clatter I had from the location of the underbody brace after replacing the compression rod arm. I think the stripped threads of those 2 bolts allowed the brace to clatter against the body when it was under stresses.
Khnitz have you thought about some kind of cosmoline (or other) underbody coating for your Z? It may not completely prevent rust, but it will really help to slow it down. You could also start spot treating the rougher spots like I did on my Z. Some wire brushing/sanding and a little rust converter goes a long way.
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
Khnitz have you thought about some kind of cosmoline (or other) underbody coating for your Z? It may not completely prevent rust, but it will really help to slow it down. You could also start spot treating the rougher spots like I did on my Z. Some wire brushing/sanding and a little rust converter goes a long way.
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
It's my summer car, so it doesn't see as much of the rough elements as it used to before my ownership. Still, with having the lift, I should spend some time as you mention to give it some sort of treatment to help slow the rust.
My dad was a journeyman machinist when he came from Germany to America many years ago, and my great uncle and 2nd cousin also did machine repair. That t-handle/chuck is ratcheting, too. It belonged to one of the three of them and it is easily 40+ years old and still works great!
All three of them have passed on, now, so it's cool when I get to use one of their tools to complete a repair - it's like they're still there to help 😊
Tools like that are worth their weight in gold these days, it's even better when it's a family heirloom. Modern versions don't hold a candle to them in terms of quality and durability. I need to start checking out antique shops for tools. Example story - my brother in law picked up an amazing made in Japan vintage machinist vice (probably 60s or 70s). It was a rusty crusty looking thing when he got it, but a quick restoration made it look new again, the tolerances of this simple tool are incredibly accurate, zero slop, perfect 90 degree corners, perfectly flat working surfaces. It's amazing, something of that quality would cost hundreds or more today, I think he picked it up for $40 at a local antique shop.
Cheers!
-Icer
That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
I snapped a couple of pictures of the ratcheting t-handle tap wrench this morning - it's a Craftsman tool, PN 4342
Unfortunately, while taking the pictures this morning I noticed the selector arm cracked off between yesterday and today...maybe it happened when I put it back in the tool drawer
I'll have to see what I can do to get a replacement figured out. A couple of friends of mine have lathes - maybe they can turn an appropriate replacement arm.
Got around to fixing the rear bumper cap attachment points, wired up my reverse camera, license plate light contraption, and used a sticker template to precision drill out the bumper for the Cartek FIA rain light.
Got everything wired up to the car w a deutsch connector.. And has a cool remote control module for the rain light to change the brightness and the static or flashing modes/speeds.
Dimmest mode in daylight (thing will blind you otherwise lol)
Dim mode at night
Gets 80% brighter, and has multiple flash patterns and speeds for actual rain conditions on track... Which 99/100 this car will never see, dry only w these tires, but none the less. 👍
I snapped a couple of pictures of the ratcheting t-handle tap wrench this morning - it's a Craftsman tool, PN 4342
Unfortunately, while taking the pictures this morning I noticed the selector arm cracked off between yesterday and today...maybe it happened when I put it back in the tool drawer
I'll have to see what I can do to get a replacement figured out. A couple of friends of mine have lathes - maybe they can turn an appropriate replacement arm.
Good old craftsman tools are legit. I know a lot people if its not Snap On or Mac its no good. Most of my tools are craftsman that ive collected over the years and they are still kicking. Nice tool man