What have you done for your Z today?
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Up-sizing front underbody brace bolts from M10-1.25 to M12-1.25
After replacing the RF compression rod arm a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that 2 of the underbody brace bolts were stripped when I tried to reattach the brace. These are M10-1.25 bolts that fasten the brace to the body There are 6 used on the aftermarket brace (vs. 8 on the OE brace) and then also 2 nuts that fasten at the bushing/post at the rear of the compression rod arm.
I decided to up-size these to M12-1.25 thread, so I ordered a tap from Amazon and then drilled the proper 27/64" hole through the stripped M10 threads in the body and tapped the new threads. Everything fastened fine, and based on the torque calculator I found online, I had to increase the fastening torque from ~46ft-lbs to ~55ft-lbs on the new, larger bolts to get the same tension in the connection.
I did all this to cure a slight clatter I had from the location of the underbody brace after replacing the compression rod arm. I think the stripped threads of those 2 bolts allowed the brace to clatter against the body when it was under stresses.
I decided to up-size these to M12-1.25 thread, so I ordered a tap from Amazon and then drilled the proper 27/64" hole through the stripped M10 threads in the body and tapped the new threads. Everything fastened fine, and based on the torque calculator I found online, I had to increase the fastening torque from ~46ft-lbs to ~55ft-lbs on the new, larger bolts to get the same tension in the connection.
I did all this to cure a slight clatter I had from the location of the underbody brace after replacing the compression rod arm. I think the stripped threads of those 2 bolts allowed the brace to clatter against the body when it was under stresses.
Last edited by khnitz; 07-16-2024 at 03:07 PM.
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Khnitz have you thought about some kind of cosmoline (or other) underbody coating for your Z? It may not completely prevent rust, but it will really help to slow it down. You could also start spot treating the rougher spots like I did on my Z. Some wire brushing/sanding and a little rust converter goes a long way.
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
New Member
Khnitz have you thought about some kind of cosmoline (or other) underbody coating for your Z? It may not completely prevent rust, but it will really help to slow it down. You could also start spot treating the rougher spots like I did on my Z. Some wire brushing/sanding and a little rust converter goes a long way.
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
Good work on a proper repair/solution on those stripped frame threads. That's a mighty large tap handle/chuck! Looks high quality! What brand?
Cheers!
-Icer
My dad was a journeyman machinist when he came from Germany to America many years ago, and my great uncle and 2nd cousin also did machine repair. That t-handle/chuck is ratcheting, too. It belonged to one of the three of them and it is easily 40+ years old and still works great!
All three of them have passed on, now, so it's cool when I get to use one of their tools to complete a repair - it's like they're still there to help 😊
Last edited by khnitz; 07-16-2024 at 06:16 PM.
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bmccann101 (07-17-2024)
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Tools like that are worth their weight in gold these days, it's even better when it's a family heirloom. Modern versions don't hold a candle to them in terms of quality and durability. I need to start checking out antique shops for tools. Example story - my brother in law picked up an amazing made in Japan vintage machinist vice (probably 60s or 70s). It was a rusty crusty looking thing when he got it, but a quick restoration made it look new again, the tolerances of this simple tool are incredibly accurate, zero slop, perfect 90 degree corners, perfectly flat working surfaces. It's amazing, something of that quality would cost hundreds or more today, I think he picked it up for $40 at a local antique shop.
Cheers!
-Icer
Cheers!
-Icer
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khnitz (07-17-2024)
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Craftsman 4342 t-handle ratcheting tap wrench
Unfortunately, while taking the pictures this morning I noticed the selector arm cracked off between yesterday and today...maybe it happened when I put it back in the tool drawer
I'll have to see what I can do to get a replacement figured out. A couple of friends of mine have lathes - maybe they can turn an appropriate replacement arm.
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Got around to fixing the rear bumper cap attachment points, wired up my reverse camera, license plate light contraption, and used a sticker template to precision drill out the bumper for the Cartek FIA rain light.
Got everything wired up to the car w a deutsch connector.. And has a cool remote control module for the rain light to change the brightness and the static or flashing modes/speeds.
Dimmest mode in daylight (thing will blind you otherwise lol)
Dim mode at night
Gets 80% brighter, and has multiple flash patterns and speeds for actual rain conditions on track... Which 99/100 this car will never see, dry only w these tires, but none the less. 👍
Got everything wired up to the car w a deutsch connector.. And has a cool remote control module for the rain light to change the brightness and the static or flashing modes/speeds.
Dimmest mode in daylight (thing will blind you otherwise lol)
Dim mode at night
Gets 80% brighter, and has multiple flash patterns and speeds for actual rain conditions on track... Which 99/100 this car will never see, dry only w these tires, but none the less. 👍
New Member
I snapped a couple of pictures of the ratcheting t-handle tap wrench this morning - it's a Craftsman tool, PN 4342
Unfortunately, while taking the pictures this morning I noticed the selector arm cracked off between yesterday and today...maybe it happened when I put it back in the tool drawer
I'll have to see what I can do to get a replacement figured out. A couple of friends of mine have lathes - maybe they can turn an appropriate replacement arm.
Unfortunately, while taking the pictures this morning I noticed the selector arm cracked off between yesterday and today...maybe it happened when I put it back in the tool drawer
I'll have to see what I can do to get a replacement figured out. A couple of friends of mine have lathes - maybe they can turn an appropriate replacement arm.
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khnitz (07-17-2024)
New Member
In the last week, I had to make a couple of 300+ mile round trip errands (there and back, pretty much in one sitting) with the Z. I just have to comment that it really is a good vehicle for long drives. I have a mainly stock 2005 Enthusiast 6MT with 170k miles on the odometer now. The only suspension changes were to replace the stock shocks/springs with Nismo take-offs.
As a bonus, I was able to fill up with alcohol-free gas on the return trip of the 2nd driver. I reset the trip and time/distance/fuel economy readings at each fill-up, too - the alcohol-free allowed for 1.5 - 2mpg better on that portion of the drive. I really wish they would quit messing around with our gas formulations.
As a bonus, I was able to fill up with alcohol-free gas on the return trip of the 2nd driver. I reset the trip and time/distance/fuel economy readings at each fill-up, too - the alcohol-free allowed for 1.5 - 2mpg better on that portion of the drive. I really wish they would quit messing around with our gas formulations.
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icer5160 (08-17-2024)
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