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Instead of working on my Z, I spent the Holiday helping my buddy wrench on his 2001.5 Audi B5 S4....again, 3rd year in a row, it's somehow become a tradition. We had a laundry list of items to tackle, some hold-overs from last year. New engine mounts (old ones were FUBAR), upgraded Wagner side mount intercoolers, JHM short shifter kit (all new bushings for shifter linkages as well), new water pump, new thermostat, 034 motorsport rear sway bar bushings + reinforcement brackets, HD rear sway endlinks (stocks are plastic!), new front sway endlinks, new headlights, and...new catback exhaust system among some other minor items like new/repaired vacuum lines...because you know VAG products and plastic for everything!
If you ever think wrenching on a 350Z is hard/difficult/frustrating, take a moment and be thankful that you're NOT wrenching on a German car, more specifically VAG products. Happy ending though, the S4 is running fantastic. Adjusting the shifter linkage for the JHM kit was a complete nightmare. Never experienced such a janky linkage setup in my life. Not knocking on JHM's design, although their documentation could use some serious improvements, it's just how that transmission and shifter box was designed.
Now that I have my garage back, I'll be tackling some maintenance and improvements on my Z.
Would have also liked to install Z1 Motorsport spacers. Due to a poor design choice (IMO), holding off on the install. Rather than try and work with me, they just wanted me to spend more money. Very poor customer experience on such low dollar items. So, Z1 lost me on any future business. Not going to risk dealing with them on bigger ticket items.
What spacers are you referring to? W-Brace spacers or something else? Just curious. I've also had issues with the Motordyne TDX2 catback exhaust having clearance issues with the stock W-brace.
Cheers!
-Icer
Instead of working on my Z, I spent the Holiday helping my buddy wrench on his 2001.5 Audi B5 S4....again, 3rd year in a row, it's somehow become a tradition. We had a laundry list of items to tackle, some hold-overs from last year. New engine mounts (old ones were FUBAR), upgraded Wagner side mount intercoolers, JHM short shifter kit (all new bushings for shifter linkages as well), new water pump, new thermostat, 034 motorsport rear sway bar bushings + reinforcement brackets, HD rear sway endlinks (stocks are plastic!), new front sway endlinks, new headlights, and...new catback exhaust system among some other minor items like new/repaired vacuum lines...because you know VAG products and plastic for everything!
If you ever think wrenching on a 350Z is hard/difficult/frustrating, take a moment and be thankful that you're NOT wrenching on a German car, more specifically VAG products. Happy ending though, the S4 is running fantastic. Adjusting the shifter linkage for the JHM kit was a complete nightmare. Never experienced such a janky linkage setup in my life. Not knocking on JHM's design, although their documentation could use some serious improvements, it's just how that transmission and shifter box was designed.
Now that I have my garage back, I'll be tackling some maintenance and improvements on my Z.
On the twelfth of January, at 0440 hours, with 203K miles, the Z experienced total power loss on the highway. As I pull off, I discovered a small fire within the engine bay around the cats/headers area. I was able to extinguish it since this is not my first car fire.
I was able to save the car from any further damage. All electrical components is working normally. Therefore, the Z is still good to keep going for the build.
Once I arrived home, I cleaned up the engine bay to avoid any corrosion from the residue. Then I took some time to look at the cause and determined the AT blew out. I couldn't tell quite yet but I think part of the engine block was damaged possibly. But regardless, the miles are high so that brings me to my next point.
At this point of the build, I believe it's due to go ahead and swap in a low-mileage HR engine, while switching all mods over (motor mounts/cover/ etc) and a M/T conversion swap done. With everything out, I may look into new test pipes and possibly headers. I am not sure if the headers are worth the investment? 100% do ATI damper on the pulley and finally do the E85 fuel conversion as well. (1050X ID injectors, AEM fuel pumps etc).
Keep us updated. I'm curious to know what the heck would cause that kind of damage on the bell housing. It looks like maybe the flexplate flew apart, which would lead to the torque converter also flying apart?
Wild, never seen anything like that before, at least not on a 350Z. It does appear that the starter mounting (if it's on the passenger side for HRs) was ripped off the block.
-Icer
Keep us updated. I'm curious to know what the heck would cause that kind of damage on the bell housing. It looks like maybe the flexplate flew apart, which would lead to the torque converter also flying apart?
Wild, never seen anything like that before, at least not on a 350Z. It does appear that the starter mounting (if it's on the passenger side for HRs) was ripped off the block.
-Icer
Far-fetched but it could be a failed starter, sounds crazy but I've some wild things in my 16 years in the field.
I could see the starter "exiting the chat" if, somehow, it tried to engage the flexplate while at those cruising speeds (65mph+). But I doubt zwei had his hands anywhere near the ignition key while cruising on the freeway. So a freak electrical short perhaps? He did say there was a small active fire after pulling over around the cats/headers (close to the starter). But what happened 1st? Did the fire cause the starter to "yeet" itself out of the car, or was the fire a result of the now absent starter's hot power cable shorting to ground?
@zwei_the_c this might be something for the NTSB to figure out, haha!
It's activated by a solenoid so it is entirely possible that a short could cause it, that's a wild time for it to happen tho. I don't know if he has the starter on hand but I'd love to see some more pictures.
I'll post more pictures this weekend when I have time since the blown pieces is lodged between the chassis brace and the transmission/engine,
I'll say this since people seem interested, that I owned this Z since 2016 with 89K miles and always planned to go AT to MT. As a result, I never changed the fluids to-date which is at 203K miles in 2026. I comment 50 miles to work around 80MPH from 0430 to 0520 to South LA. Prior to this, the engine power is smooth and did not experience any choking or sputtering. At the same time, I experienced some power loss, as the Z worked seemingly harder to stay at 80MPH. There was some rattling shortly before this power loss on THIS drive to work I was hearing but believed it sounded like it was underneath the car and I am driving to work so I couldn't really pull over on the highway to look for some debris.
I began to make my way over to exit as I have my doubt. The explosion came first, and then I lost power steering and lost brake booster. Engine oil light came on and other light possibly AT. Happened fast, didn't look too much. Once I was on surface street, I looked under the hood and saw the fire which I believe is caused from the oil spilled onto the cats/headers area from the high heat. This is my theory.
Once towed home, there was oil leak from the AT but nothing from the engine. I will drain the engine this weekend and look for the starter as well. The starter is original, never replaced but never had issue starting the car. Will post up more later this weekend.
Dark, I will do a HR/MT combo. Possibly do headers, AMS test pipes and ATI super damper. I will not do boost since I will be saving money to sit on a V12 engine and parts from Hartley to build it. It be bad timing to try to do the V12 swap when the Amuse kit is supposed to go on the Z soon which if that happens, the Z will for sure sit for a few years til I get the V12 all worked out.
Last edited by zwei_the_c; Jan 13, 2026 at 11:43 PM.
Definitely a strange event that occurred. Possible that a short caused this with the starter. Its been really cold lately and maybe some rotten munched on some wires.
Oil & Filter Change, but weird loose oil cap issue
I changed the oil and filter on my '05 Z this evening, at 186k miles. The Z is running great - I wouldn't hesitate to drive across the country with it tomorrow, if needed
I took a look down the oil fill tube at what little of the valvetrain could be seen - everything seems nice and golden.
But, when I went to put the oil cap back on after adding the oil, it would tighten and then slip past to loose - weird. It had never done that before. I compared the cap to one I have from the G35 engine I have here waiting to go into my '03 Z.
The cap & gasket from the G35 engine is on the right, and my '05's 186k mile cap & gasket are on the left. The G35 cap fit tight on my '05, and strangely, the '05 cap fit tight on the G35 engine
It is obvious that the gasket from the '05 cap is dried and shrunken - it probably wasn't sealing that well anymore. I also measured the diameter at the threads on each of the caps: the G35's cap measured at 32.25mm while my '05's cap measured at 31.65mm. I wonder if the plastic of the cap has dried and shrunk some over all that time and miles?
For now, I've cleaned and put the G35 cap onto my '05. I'll probably order a new cap at some point for it. Very odd
That is weird. Only thing I can think of is the O-ring seal. My oil cap has always been a super tight fit, to the point that I deliberately tighten it more gentle than I do on my other vehicles. I've learned that after some heat cycles it can be a bit difficult to break free. Your engine looks super clean after all those miles. I tip my hat to you sir! Well done!
Cheers!
-Icer
I made a whirlwind 650mile round trip today (traveling from MI, through OH, to PA) collecting car parts. The main goal was to pick up a color-matching rear bumper cover for my daughter's car from an auto salvage yard in Erie. On a whim, I asked at the yard if they had any 04-07 Mazda 6's - they did! So I asked if they had a battery hold down bracket. Lo and behold, their guy was able to find one in the yard - another part need checked off of my list! They even through it in with the cost of the bumper cover 😁
In OH, I made several stops and picked up some parts for my 350Z's I found on Marketplace:
a set of spare exterior door handles (they were offered for free! How could I not pick them up ), a spare remote and key blank I'll need for my '03, and a Z1 hood lift strut kit. Not bad for a day's worth of driving 😊
Well I did it.. marketplace got me again... time to throw on a BBK.. I found this kit for less than $1,000. I also found out the kit at Z1 or Concept Z is almost $3,000. I got a steal of a deal. Just need a couple parts like new hardware, pads, lines, and resurface the rotors and boom golden..
Did the kit come with the adapter brackets for the front calipers? That looks like the 370Z/G37 BBK so the adapters are a must.
Also...If you're **** about aesthetics like I am. You can clean up the rotors (remove rust inside the veins), soak them in some "Metal Rescue". You can pick it up at HD or Amazon, stuff works amazingly good. After that, you can slap some high temp paint on them. The new pads will remove any rotor surface overspray after a few hard stops.
Cheers!
-Icer
Did the kit come with the adapter brackets for the front calipers? That looks like the 370Z/G37 BBK so the adapters are a must.
Also...If you're **** about aesthetics like I am. You can clean up the rotors (remove rust inside the veins), soak them in some "Metal Rescue". You can pick it up at HD or Amazon, stuff works amazingly good. After that, you can slap some high temp paint on them. The new pads will remove any rotor surface overspray after a few hard stops.
Cheers!
-Icer
That is exactly what BBK that is. It came off of a wrecked 370Z with 56,000 miles. No, they didn't come with the adapters.. but I will order those.. There will be a good cleaning first to get everything all clean. I cant wait to install them.
Last edited by ChocolateCowboy; Feb 26, 2026 at 05:07 AM.
Reason: missed a few words.
Nice pick-up! Adapters are a must. I forget what wheels you're running, but I am assuming they will clear the BBK. Some 18"s clear. Most 19"s will have no issues.
), a spare remote and key blank I'll need for my '03, and a Z1 hood lift strut kit. Not bad for a day's worth of driving 😊
