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Needed the passenger's side A-pillar finisher replaced/painted cause it was damaged during a windshield install. Took advantage of that situation to have the driver's side finisher painted and an aftermarket spoiler painted/installed.
Needed the passenger's side A-pillar finisher replaced/painted cause it was damaged during a windshield install. Took advantage of that situation to have the driver's side finisher painted and an aftermarket spoiler painted/installed.
I have that exact same crack on my front bumper cover. I been trying to figure out how to repair it as I dont want to buy another cover and have to paint and all. Ive read that using fiber glass/resin doesnt work well with urethane/plastic so thats out of the equation.
So im thinking of buying these brackets and having my buddy well another plate to form like an L bracket to where i can jb weld it to the bumper cover and stabilize that crack if that makes any sense. Instead of trying to just glue the crack or what not. This bracket IF my idea works out should stabilize that crack from getting larger.
I have that exact same crack on my front bumper cover. I been trying to figure out how to repair it as I dont want to buy another cover and have to paint and all. Ive read that using fiber glass/resin doesnt work well with urethane/plastic so thats out of the equation.
So im thinking of buying these brackets and having my buddy well another plate to form like an L bracket to where i can jb weld it to the bumper cover and stabilize that crack if that makes any sense. Instead of trying to just glue the crack or what not. This bracket IF my idea works out should stabilize that crack from getting larger.
Went out to the garage this morning and saw a red glow emanating from the rear of my Z which has been parked since last Thursday. Brake lights and the 3rd brake light were illuminated. Hmmmm, Before jumping to the obvious conclusion that the ghost of a '58 Plymouth Fury had taken over my Z, I took a quick look inside on the driver side floor mat and saw the tiny rubber bits from the brake pedal stopper which had finally kicked the bucket after 20 years.
I threaded an M8 bolt with a nut on the back of the bracket as a temporary fix and ordered the urethane pedal stopper kit from Z1. I also ordered the door stopper rebuild kit.
I'm going to miss walking away from the Z and the door closing on its own.
Went out to the garage this morning and saw a red glow emanating from the rear of my Z which has been parked since last Thursday. Brake lights and the 3rd brake light were illuminated. Hmmmm, Before jumping to the obvious conclusion that the ghost of a '58 Plymouth Fury had taken over my Z, I took a quick look inside on the driver side floor mat and saw the tiny rubber bits from the brake pedal stopper which had finally kicked the bucket after 20 years.
I threaded an M8 bolt with a nut on the back of the bracket as a temporary fix and ordered the urethane pedal stopper kit from Z1. I also ordered the door stopper rebuild kit.
I'm going to miss walking away from the Z and the door closing on its own.
Its funny came across this post right here. I got to work this morning, shut the car off and all my rear lights were on … luckily I work right next door to a Nissan dealer. call and got the grommet and fixed the issue with I got a free second today. I will say getting under the dash to install the top grommet is a pain in the ***, not a job for big guys..
Last weekend, I installed a PU based exhaust hanger from gktech (LINK). Ever since upgrading to the MD TDX2 catback system on my Z, I've been observing occasional taps/impact noises coming from the exhaust piping hitting the W-brace and/or rear sway bar. I have done everything possible in terms of adjusting/indexing the piping for maximum clearance. I also tried installing fresh OEM rubber hangers, which temporarily solved the problem, but after 3-6 months the problem was back.
Under normal driving conditions on fairly smooth roads there's no issue, but at lower speeds on rough roads, there's enough elasticity in the factory rubber hangers to allow the exhaust system to momentarily stretch and tap the brace or sway bar. Most other aftermarket catback systems won't have this problem since they typically use all 4 OEM hangers. However the MD system only uses 3 of the OEM hangers. This increases the load per hanger resulting in the issue I'm having.
The gktech unit I installed replaces the forward mid-pipe support on the driver's side. This is where the majority of the weight/load from the MD system is focused. I gave the Z a good long test drive on my morning commute today (66 miles) across varying road conditions, so far *knock on wood*, no contact observed! Even if you don't have a Motordyne exhaust system, I highly recommend this cheap/simple part. The OEM rubber is simply too soft, if you're still on the originals, odds are they have stretched and could be dry-rotting, so consider this little upgrade the next time you're under your Z.
On a scale of 1 to 5, installation difficulty is 1. Simply remove the undertray cover (in front of rear wheel), remove the 12mm nut that secures the hanger bar, drop the piece and swap rubbers. No need to take apart the exhaust piping.
As a side note, there is a complete PU hanger kit offered by "Torque Solution" (LINK). But I wasn't very impressed with the quality of the mold. The mold entry holes for the hanger bars are not tapered like the gktech unit, this will make installation more difficult. They also didn't do a very good job cleaning up the mold release agent (very slippery/oily to the touch), again this will make installation a bit more difficult. Not deal breakers, but I would expect better when paying $50 + tax + S&H for 4x PU hanger pieces.
Its funny came across this post right here. I got to work this morning, shut the car off and all my rear lights were on … luckily I work right next door to a Nissan dealer. call and got the grommet and fixed the issue with I got a free second today. I will say getting under the dash to install the top grommet is a pain in the ***, not a job for big guys..
Ha! I'm not a big guy and it was still less than enjoyable squeezing under the dash!
Last weekend, I installed a PU based exhaust hanger from gktech (LINK). Ever since upgrading to the MD TDX2 catback system on my Z, I've been observing occasional taps/impact noises coming from the exhaust piping hitting the W-brace and/or rear sway bar. I have done everything possible in terms of adjusting/indexing the piping for maximum clearance. I also tried installing fresh OEM rubber hangers, which temporarily solved the problem, but after 3-6 months the problem was back.
Under normal driving conditions on fairly smooth roads there's no issue, but at lower speeds on rough roads, there's enough elasticity in the factory rubber hangers to allow the exhaust system to momentarily stretch and tap the brace or sway bar. Most other aftermarket catback systems won't have this problem since they typically use all 4 OEM hangers. However the MD system only uses 3 of the OEM hangers. This increases the load per hanger resulting in the issue I'm having.
The gktech unit I installed replaces the forward mid-pipe support on the driver's side. This is where the majority of the weight/load from the MD system is focused. I gave the Z a good long test drive on my morning commute today (66 miles) across varying road conditions, so far *knock on wood*, no contact observed! Even if you don't have a Motordyne exhaust system, I highly recommend this cheap/simple part. The OEM rubber is simply too soft, if you're still on the originals, odds are they have stretched and could be dry-rotting, so consider this little upgrade the next time you're under your Z.
On a scale of 1 to 5, installation difficulty is 1. Simply remove the undertray cover (in front of rear wheel), remove the 12mm nut that secures the hanger bar, drop the piece and swap rubbers. No need to take apart the exhaust piping.
As a side note, there is a complete PU hanger kit offered by "Torque Solution" (LINK). But I wasn't very impressed with the quality of the mold. The mold entry holes for the hanger bars are not tapered like the gktech unit, this will make installation more difficult. They also didn't do a very good job cleaning up the mold release agent (very slippery/oily to the touch), again this will make installation a bit more difficult. Not deal breakers, but I would expect better when paying $50 + tax + S&H for 4x PU hanger pieces.
Cheers!
-Icer
Good review as always!
When I initially installed the TDX2, I noticed that the clearance looked pretty slim above the W brace. I also did everything I could to slightly twist the pipes prior to tightening everything down to adjust their positioning and give it the most amount of clearance, but it was still pretty small. I have not witnessed any impact noises, but I may go ahead and get some new hangers to play it safe.
Maybe stacking tolerance issues in my case. I'm running DC-Sport Headers + OEM Cats before the TDX2. Additionally the Nismo Coil Springs + Bilstein B6s, although not harsh, are more stiff than the stock suspension (couple that with CA roads and you can have a bumpy ride!). Aren't you running a similar suspension setup? I think the suspension and larger pipe diameter of the TDX2 is the main cause of my issue. Been a few more days of driving and still no contact noises.
Cheers!
-Icer
Pretty similar!. I'm on the stock headers (for now) and Berk HFCs mated up to the TDX2. As far as suspension is concerned, I've got the Bilstein B8s paired up with Hotchkis springs (modest drop - less than an inch F and R and fairly close spring rates to OEM) and the Hotchkis sway bars. I forget which setting I put the sways on. If memory serves right, maybe 3 up front and 1 in the rear?
Since my Z turns 20 this year, in NC, only safety inspection is required and no more emissions. Seriously debating going catless and some type of FI. Give her a little more pep and abate my desire to get an R35. I think if I got that route, I'll be selling the Z as much as I would like to justify it. Buuuuut, I have made some progress on selling my wife the idea of getting a Taycan which means the Z stays. Hahaha.
Pretty similar!. I'm on the stock headers (for now) and Berk HFCs mated up to the TDX2. As far as suspension is concerned, I've got the Bilstein B8s paired up with Hotchkis springs (modest drop - less than an inch F and R and fairly close spring rates to OEM) and the Hotchkis sway bars. I forget which setting I put the sways on. If memory serves right, maybe 3 up front and 1 in the rear?
Since my Z turns 20 this year, in NC, only safety inspection is required and no more emissions. Seriously debating going catless and some type of FI. Give her a little more pep and abate my desire to get an R35. I think if I got that route, I'll be selling the Z as much as I would like to justify it. Buuuuut, I have made some progress on selling my wife the idea of getting a Taycan which means the Z stays. Hahaha.
Oh dude, a Taycan Sam? You will hate yourself not getting the GTR what with how long the lust has been in your psyche. 🤣 Do eeet!!! Faster than your brick!!
That thought has crossed my mind. It seems as though the R35 seems to be retaining value fairly well. I don't normally purchase vehicles based on their resale value, but if Godzilla doesn't live up to the hype, turn it around and go with something else. The Taycan, on the other hand, seems to have plummeted in price on the used market compared to new.
-tackled some more wrap on a fe more panels.
Still need to redo pillars and hatch, it has aged heavily over the years while waiting and building, rest of this wrap roll is way brighter from no uv exposure yet.
-Finished my side splitters
-Aluminum end plates (cad/water jet cut, powder coated) for side and front splitter.
Side splitters 1/4" alumalite, satin black wrap, bolted to skirts and flares w fender washers and t nuts, used all factory skirt hardware under the body so these things don't budge, absolutely rigid and solid.
Proud of the quality outcome. 👌
Last edited by bmccann101; Aug 21, 2025 at 09:05 AM.
