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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Thank You, Clutch pedal issues solved!

Old Oct 12, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #1  
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Default Thank You, Clutch pedal issues solved!

I am new to this forum, I just got my 2nd Z, a 2006 6MT. When I drove it home the clutch pedal felt sticky after about 20 minutes and a short while later (after some 'spirited driving' , the clutch actually dropped while driving so I had to pop it back up after every shift).

Needless to say, I was worried. I checked the forum before heading to the dealer and found a post about changing the clutch fluid (really just brake fluid).

I used that information to find an easier way to change the fluid (I wouldn't know how to bleed it etc). I found a link to a post showing that all you need to do is get a syringe and suck out the filthy clutch fluid and replace it with (dot3 or dot4) brake fluid.

The clutch is now fixed and my total cost was about 10 bucks with tons of extra brake fluid to spare.

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 07:44 AM
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lol...congrats..

enjoy the 06.....
-J
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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hmm would think work with the 07, even though i think it is the csc problem.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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It will stick again soon, what you actually need to do is rebuild the clutch master, or at minimum tear the master apart and clean the crap out of it. Trust me, i just had to do it a month ago on my 05.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:32 PM
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How soon do you think? if it is every 3000 miles i don't mind doing the fluid swap. If it is every 2 weeks then maybe I need to take it apart like you said.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Amazing how much different changing a simple fluid makes. I was having the same problem and it's been fine for 3 weeks.

The culprit would be the CMC/CSC if the problems occurs again.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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Yeah I didn't think it would work until I did it,

I've heard the slave on these can be a problem. Time will tell. Hopefully we'll be ok.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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good to hear! aren't you glad you checked the forum first before heading to the stealership?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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Do you have the link for the how to?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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Really happy I checked the forums first.

The link- Sure it's http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I used a flavor injector that I got at Bed Bath and Beyond for $12.99 It's a really nice piece and you should use something less expensive if you can find it, I had no other options and needed to do the swap right away.

I extracted about 1.7oz of clutch fluid (my reservoir was lower than it should have been in addition to being filthy). And poured in the new fluid to the max line. I was in a rush and did not repeat until completely clean but I will over the weekend. I recommend buying fluid that is Dot 4 approved because the high heat of the clutch can boil the Dot3 stuff. Somebody correct me if I am wrong there.

Make sure you do not buy Dot5 fluid as this is a different type and will not work on the Z. And do not get the fluid on the paint of your car it can corrode the paint in a day or two if left uncleaned.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

TheRalph

Last edited by TheRalph; Oct 13, 2010 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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Glad this is here, tonight coming home clutch stuck to the floor... eventually got it pulled up and put in 2nd so I could get myself home. Hopefully this is all it is and not some type of linkage, etc...

Will try this out tomorrow when the sun is back up to assist me.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRalph
Really happy I checked the forums first.

The link- Sure it's http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I used a flavor injector that I got at Bed Bath and Beyond for $12.99 It's a really nice piece and you should use something less expensive if you can find it, I had no other options and needed to do the swap right away.

I extracted about 1.7oz of clutch fluid (my reservoir was lower than it should have been in addition to being filthy). And poured in the new fluid to the max line. I was in a rush and did not repeat until completely clean but I will over the weekend. I recommend buying fluid that is Dot 4 approved because the high heat of the clutch can boil the Dot3 stuff. Somebody correct me if I am wrong there.

Make sure you do not buy Dot5 fluid as this is a different type and will not work on the Z. And do not get the fluid on the paint of your car it can corrode the paint in a day or two if left uncleaned.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

TheRalph
Doing it that way never removed the sediment from the master or slave, also it did nothing for the fluid down in the lines. It needs to be bleed.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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Is this a common problem for all models of the Z? My clutch pedal fell down but I was still able to drive in my 05. I pushed the pedal back up and hasn't happened again since last week. Should I change my clutch fluid?
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mugen727
Is this a common problem for all models of the Z? My clutch pedal fell down but I was still able to drive in my 05. I pushed the pedal back up and hasn't happened again since last week. Should I change my clutch fluid?
Yes, do a flush and hope for the best. My 05 needed the master cleaned out. The rebuild kit was only $15, and i probably could have been fine with just pulling it apart and cleaning it.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Interesting. Is it difficult to clean/rebuild it?

My G35 does it when the outside temps soar above 90deg F with commutes of over 30min. Now that it's fall there's no problem. I would think the master, slave cylinder's need to be changed and line upgraded to SS.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by VQdriver
Interesting. Is it difficult to clean/rebuild it?

My G35 does it when the outside temps soar above 90deg F with commutes of over 30min. Now that it's fall there's no problem. I would think the master, slave cylinder's need to be changed and line upgraded to SS.
It takes about 15 minutes to remove, 5 minutes to rebuild or clean , and 15 to reinstall. The slave is even faster. The rebuild kits are $15 each. The hardest part is bleeding the system, simple to do when there is still fluid in it, but a pain when you remove the fluid to rebuild the parts.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Default DIY please ^ ^ with pics

Originally Posted by terrasmak
It takes about 15 minutes to remove, 5 minutes to rebuild or clean , and 15 to reinstall. The slave is even faster. The rebuild kits are $15 each. The hardest part is bleeding the system, simple to do when there is still fluid in it, but a pain when you remove the fluid to rebuild the parts.
DIY please
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