350Z out of storage after 5 years... The story, the needs.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: San Francisco
Thanks for all the advice, since Brembo's are on so many factory cars now-a-days maybe I can locate a pair of stoppers pretty cheap... then just buy some disks.
Thanks also for the specifics of wheel recommendations, this really narrows down sifting through thousands of offerings.
The ECU is an interesting topic, sure I could bolt on all kinds of stuff but remapping of the engine, adjusting the red line and "power ban" (whatever it’s called these days) and ensuring an even fuel map is quite quantifiable, even on a phone with the right cables. But I'm not going to argue with you guys who are going to know more than me, it wouldn't be the first time claims don't match reality... If you guy believe leaving the ECU alone is the better option than it’s arguably the lowest priority.
306 hp, how did I come to that? It was reverse math. The dyno spit out a number, that number is about 15-20% false if you’re trying to measure engine HP and not rear wheel. I do not remember the number from the dyno (this was 6+ years ago, but I remember adding 20% to come up with around 306... Of course I'm going to be generous with the math and add the full 20%... All based on averages, perhaps these days we know specifically the loss from the crank.
But then the question is "how the hell do you go from 279 (stock right?) to 306 with only an exhast and intake? Well you don't, but every time someone has gotten under my car they have found things. For instance when I bought the Nismo exhaust they threw in the pipes to replace the cats. The guy installing them asked why I wanted to replace the high flow cats with straight pipes for a minimal gain in performance and a guaranteed emition fail... So my cats aren’t stock, don't know what they are. Also there is a custom front torsion bar, and evidence of the engine having been cracked open... And it clearly is lower than other 350s… But I’ve never had the wheels off…
How do you call a guy who had this car reposesed and say "hey dude, what did you do to your car, the one you owned 7 years ago and apparently crashed within 2 months of buying because you’re a squid?"
But all these mysteries are going to be solved sooner than later as I'm now going to do what I intended to do 7 years ago... so the process of discovery is on again... like I was frozen in time...
Thanks again for ALL the advice, this is VERY helpful!
Thanks also for the specifics of wheel recommendations, this really narrows down sifting through thousands of offerings.
The ECU is an interesting topic, sure I could bolt on all kinds of stuff but remapping of the engine, adjusting the red line and "power ban" (whatever it’s called these days) and ensuring an even fuel map is quite quantifiable, even on a phone with the right cables. But I'm not going to argue with you guys who are going to know more than me, it wouldn't be the first time claims don't match reality... If you guy believe leaving the ECU alone is the better option than it’s arguably the lowest priority.
306 hp, how did I come to that? It was reverse math. The dyno spit out a number, that number is about 15-20% false if you’re trying to measure engine HP and not rear wheel. I do not remember the number from the dyno (this was 6+ years ago, but I remember adding 20% to come up with around 306... Of course I'm going to be generous with the math and add the full 20%... All based on averages, perhaps these days we know specifically the loss from the crank.
But then the question is "how the hell do you go from 279 (stock right?) to 306 with only an exhast and intake? Well you don't, but every time someone has gotten under my car they have found things. For instance when I bought the Nismo exhaust they threw in the pipes to replace the cats. The guy installing them asked why I wanted to replace the high flow cats with straight pipes for a minimal gain in performance and a guaranteed emition fail... So my cats aren’t stock, don't know what they are. Also there is a custom front torsion bar, and evidence of the engine having been cracked open... And it clearly is lower than other 350s… But I’ve never had the wheels off…
How do you call a guy who had this car reposesed and say "hey dude, what did you do to your car, the one you owned 7 years ago and apparently crashed within 2 months of buying because you’re a squid?"
But all these mysteries are going to be solved sooner than later as I'm now going to do what I intended to do 7 years ago... so the process of discovery is on again... like I was frozen in time...
Thanks again for ALL the advice, this is VERY helpful!
Jedix, any major movie company can help. I moved all my cars with corporate relocation. the only real choice you get is open or covered and as you'd suspect, the cost is hugely different.
The BEST option I had was putting both my heavily modified 4x4 xterra and 350z right on the movie truck. IT was quite a site seeing them on top of each other... VERY unnatural looking, it was a tall full size van.
In the event they couldn't fit in on a couple moves they sub contracted transporters. These people, all of them, are the same people that move exotics around.
It's about 5k to move the car if they are already on their way to CA... Considering it's GA it might be easier for you if you wait for a major event at Road America and piggy back off all the cars moving from race shop (most in CA) and GA.
The BEST option I had was putting both my heavily modified 4x4 xterra and 350z right on the movie truck. IT was quite a site seeing them on top of each other... VERY unnatural looking, it was a tall full size van.
In the event they couldn't fit in on a couple moves they sub contracted transporters. These people, all of them, are the same people that move exotics around.
It's about 5k to move the car if they are already on their way to CA... Considering it's GA it might be easier for you if you wait for a major event at Road America and piggy back off all the cars moving from race shop (most in CA) and GA.
my friend paid to ship his mercedes from CA to GA for only 800$. took about 1-2 week for the car to arrive. i was just wondering if you knew anything cheaper lol
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From: San Francisco
It's included in the move if you put it on the moving truck... Just a small insurance fee and the flatbed to take it off the truck.
But 800 is a heck of a deal really, the gas will cost more than that... IT must have been an open trailer...
I think I was worng, that was from TX to Vancouver with all the imagration...
It's included in the move if you put it on the moving truck... Just a small insurance fee and the flatbed to take it off the truck.
But 800 is a heck of a deal really, the gas will cost more than that... IT must have been an open trailer...
It's included in the move if you put it on the moving truck... Just a small insurance fee and the flatbed to take it off the truck.
But 800 is a heck of a deal really, the gas will cost more than that... IT must have been an open trailer...
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: San Francisco
350z paint baking issue... in response ot the post below, I learned about ti on this forum many years ago and even refrenced it with Nissan NA and they admited to the issue by accepting it for service.
Any of you with pre 06 Z's have seen your paint peal off the hood no? It's quite particulare in that it flakes off in soft small patches exposing perfect primer below... Very diffrent than a chip or impact damage.
Any of you with pre 06 Z's have seen your paint peal off the hood no? It's quite particulare in that it flakes off in soft small patches exposing perfect primer below... Very diffrent than a chip or impact damage.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: San Francisco
I also managed to get over to Nurburgring for a few laps but was sorely disapointed at how complicated it is to get on Laguna with a car that isn't a pourche
... so I signed up for Skip Barber for a refresher (got my SCCA from them at Willow Spings back in the 90s) and plan to fix up the Z and tag along with the Pourche club as they rent the track more often then others...Then its Infinion and Thunder Hill... Yes, I'm back "home"
Yeah, I ran the ring in the pouring rain, hired a famous motorcycle racer as my insurance policy
He was just a pup I knew when I raced... now he is a sumbody if you you follow Island of man TT...http://www.youtube.com/user/MrLordSnowden?feature=mhee
. Back in the late 80s and early 90...Willow (numerous times)...Riverside..Laguna Seca...Sears Point...FireBird...those were great times! Don't want to beat up my street Z, so won't be doing that with this car. Enjoy!
The ECU is an interesting topic, sure I could bolt on all kinds of stuff but remapping of the engine, adjusting the red line and "power ban" (whatever it’s called these days) and ensuring an even fuel map is quite quantifiable, even on a phone with the right cables. But I'm not going to argue with you guys who are going to know more than me, it wouldn't be the first time claims don't match reality... If you guy believe leaving the ECU alone is the better option than it’s arguably the lowest priority.
LSD as mentioned, don't bother with OEM. OS Giken is the prefurred diff but other are cheaper and work well.
Bilstien is great, but.... More of a street setup. Look into Truechoice Koni or save up for Moton, JRZ, AST or KW Clubsports.
Wheels and tires, the popular setup for track is Enkei RPF1 or NT03 then tires are another story. I run a 275/35 front and 285/35 rear. They are close to stock height and but there are many great track combo's available.
ECU upgrade, no need , just get a tune.
Splitter, APR or custom. Another good setup is to get a Nismo V2 or V3 front end. An extra splitter can easily be added to the V2 front end.
Roll cage, $2k+ or you can just do a 4 point bolt in rollbar if you don't plan W2W racing with your car. Then of course the proper seats etc etc to go along.
Big Brake kit is simple. OEM Brembo woll work great, most people will not out grow them. Then the next cheapist option is Wilwood, I run Wilwood on mine and get all my brake parts from Todd at TCE.
Bilstien is great, but.... More of a street setup. Look into Truechoice Koni or save up for Moton, JRZ, AST or KW Clubsports.
Wheels and tires, the popular setup for track is Enkei RPF1 or NT03 then tires are another story. I run a 275/35 front and 285/35 rear. They are close to stock height and but there are many great track combo's available.
ECU upgrade, no need , just get a tune.
Splitter, APR or custom. Another good setup is to get a Nismo V2 or V3 front end. An extra splitter can easily be added to the V2 front end.
Roll cage, $2k+ or you can just do a 4 point bolt in rollbar if you don't plan W2W racing with your car. Then of course the proper seats etc etc to go along.
Big Brake kit is simple. OEM Brembo woll work great, most people will not out grow them. Then the next cheapist option is Wilwood, I run Wilwood on mine and get all my brake parts from Todd at TCE.
You are in SF, start coming out to thunderhill!
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