Alicia21

I was rear-ended on Monday by a StateFarm policy holder into another car (who fled- I guess they didn't want their **** fixed). I have extensive rear damage and a small amount of front end damage.
StateFarm has not yet decided whether the car is totaled but so far (without disassembling) the estimate is just under 12k.
They're also not even willing to fix all damage; "I don't know where those scratches came from" "That mark just cannot be related". When the car was pristine condition before this.

I was just wondering what insurance companies have offered you guys for payout on a totaled 350z? and how much it was to buy back.
If they give me an offer that I do not think is fair can I do anything about it?

I have a 2006 GT
55k miles
upwards of 7k in upgrades (still have all invoices for).


Thanks, in advance.

Alicia

winchman

Major bummer, but glad you're not hurt. I'm guessing the accident happened somewhere on Capital Circle.

How do you KNOW they're insured by SF if they fled? Seeing a SF sticker on the bumper just isn't going to cut it. Why would they flee AFTER they gave you their insurance info? Doesn't make sense, except that it happened in Tallahassee.

Post some pics of the car, preferably before and after the accident. Damages estimated at $12 on a car that's worth maybe $18K suggests it's totaled. Mods, even 'upgrades', won't help the valuation much.

Jennifer 2

If you think the other driver’s insurance adjuster is maneuvering to treat you unfairly, go online to your state’s department of insurance. The website will have a FAQ that will spell out your rights for each detail of your claim. If you haven’t done so already ask for a rental car, they’re obligated to provide one. Don’t accept the cheapest econbox on the lot, ask for one more equal to your car. Getting the claim settled and you car repaired or replaced may take a lot longer than you might think.


As to other dents and scrapes that don’t seem to be part of the collision, but you’re sure were not there before the accident. The act of towing a disabled car and moving it around the storage lot subjects the car to a lot of extra stress and strain. Remind the adjuster that their insured driver caused the collision that necessity the car being towed away, and they bear this liability as well.


If an upgrade is an ADDITION like a backup camera or a wing etc. they are obligated to pay what would be a comparative used part price. If the upgrade is wheels or an exhaust system etc. it’s a little more complicated as these parts are replacing parts you took off. Stock wheels may just be little ugly round boat anchors, but the replacement price from the dealers parts department may be more than the nice set of aftermarket you installed. If you can’t come to agreement on things like wheels that were not damaged in the accident they will usually allow you to remove and keep them.


If you have collision and comprehensive coverage in addition to liability insurance, your company will supply the services of one of their adjusters to help you negotiate with State Farm. Do get your insurance company involved in making an independent damage estimate for you, and keep your state’s Department of Insurance on speed dial.

SQuaLZ

FYI the person that hit you from behind is responsible for the damage to the rear of your car. You are responsible for the front damage when you hit the car in front of you. I know it sucks but that's the truth.

My aunt's car was hit in a parking lot by a drunk driver and it actually pushed her car into the car next to her. Her insurance had to pay the damage on the car that her car hit.

Regarding the payout, if you do not think it is fair then you can fight with them. I would speak to my own insurance company and explain to them what is happening. Even though they might not be able to help much, I am sure they can give you great advice. If you have State Farm they have their own legal department that can maybe help.

Good luck!

KornerCarver

iTrader: (2)

Rather than fight with the insurance company, I would just file a claim with your insurance and let them either fix the car or total it. They can then fight with State Farm to get their money back.

Kels88

This is sad to hear....

I was also hit by a drunk driver with no insurance, no license and not an American citizen when I was 17 right before I left for boot camp. He could not speak English either. I was parked in front of my now wife's house 4 feet off of the road when I was smashed by a '95 Ford Explorer.

^Carver is right though and GL with this OP =/

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Alicia- sorry to hear about the shunt. Guessing the state farm policy is for the rear end damage, as that driver is responsible for the damage to that end. As for the front, as squalz has said, that's why we carry collision damage on our policies. Hopefully, you've already been in touch with your insurance company to get their help.

You should look up sources like Edmunds or KBB.com to look at used Z prices for your area. They'll give you some idea of what the insurance settlement offer will be. Sounds like $12K (so far) will definitely be enough to total your vehicle. While you can use your receipts to show the aftermarket costs of your upgrades, remember that the insurance company is only obliged to reimburse at a portion of the cost. They assume you got some use out of the parts.

Another idea might be to ask if you can take off the aftermarket parts (you'll need to sub in the OEM parts if you still have them) and use them on your next Z. I know this is what I'd do to cut my losses in a situation like this. Good luck on getting an equitable settlement.

350zchad

iTrader: (1)

lol.. front end damage was not your fault their insurance has to pay (unless you were following too closely to a vehicle in front of you) be sure the police report is accurate in that description, their policy holder caused the wreck that threw you into another object.. SUE

but if the other driver took off, it's all their fault. Whatever the insurance company doesn't pay, find out if the driver has any money and then sue them for the difference

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

Keep us updated. It can be tricky when speaking with insurance.

timeltel

She had purple hair, the side of the yellow '70s Caddy looked like it was fifty feet long. Made a left directly in front of my '80 RX-7, freaked & stopped right there. The Mazda ended up with radiator support, headlamp motor, front facia, bumper & fender damage.

Recent paint, upholstery, new motor, clutch & etc. Her adjuster wanted to total the car at 1997 Blue Book value of $900. Receipts for upgrades were submitted, as well as a current listing for a comparable RX, $10g asking.

***A friend in the industry informs me that insurance providers sometimes drag settlement out for as long as possible. After a suitable period of annoyance designed to generate your uncertainty of receiving any compensation for damages, they'll then offer a low %age of value, anticipating that a minimal offer will be accepted just to resolve your distress.***

After three weeks of their stalling, I called her adjuster and mentioned I was experiencing neck pain (true), had a doctor's appointment and was meeting with my attorney "on another matter, anyway" later in the week.

$7,000 check received two days later. (Still have the RX, 23 years of ownership.)

NismoDude

Good advice here.



And here.




I will say that based on what you are telling us, it would be wise to "lawyer up". An insurance company WILL bully you into accepting a minimal settlement, especially if they think you are not experienced at dealing with this sort of thing (ie - they assume you are young and easy to push around).

It's bidness.


If the accidents was 100% the other person's fault (which it sounds like it was), then there is less gray area for who is to be expected to pay, and you are in a much better position to DEMAND that your damages be compensated. ALL of your damages.


Let me share what happened to my family several years ago.

My wife was driving my son to preschool. She was driving an almost brand new Infiniti QX56 (built like a tank - we have owned several of them - largely because of what happened......)

A guy driving an older full size pickup truck was waiting to turn left, when the light turned green (but not a green arrow left) he stepped on the gas and pulled directly in front of my wife who didn't even have time to touch the brake, she hit him going 40-50 mph. Airbags deployed, engine dropped, front crumpled. My son and wife had nothing worse than sore necks and bruises from seatbelts and child seat. My son was only 3, so paramedics left him in his chair and took him to hospital for xrays - he was fine.

The guy who pulled out in front of her was a stand up guy. My wife called me and I got there just as paramedics were taking my son (only 2 miles from my house), the guy walks up to me and apologizes and admits 100% fault - he told cops the same thing. I told him as long as my son is OK, no problem. Turns out we have the same insurance company, which has been a good company for us - USAA.

A few days later USAA calls and tells me that damage to my wifes car was in the 35k range, but since it was an almost brand new 55k car, they were going to fix it.

I told the insurance agent, very specifically, that I chose NOT to call an attorney after the accident because that would only raise costs for everyone, and because the guy admitted fault. I further told him that I was NOT interested in putting my family in a cheap rental car while my wife's SUV sat in a shop for 2-3 months, and then dealing with the problems that always accompany a rebuilt car, and the 10k loss in value when I went to sell or trade in a couple of years.

He told me there was nothing he could do based on the value of the car, and the damage.

I reminded him that my wife was 100% NOT at fault. I then told him to do what he had to, I was going to the dealership to purchase a brand new car (bought same model - it saved my family in that crash), and I would be contacting an attorney, and anything less than payment in full for my wife's car was unacceptable.

He called me back less than 4 hours later, and told me they had "decided" to total her car, and soon after cut us a generous check.


Point of that longish story being - if it is NOT your fault, you need to demand you are made whole. If that requires involving an attorney - so be it.

SQuaLZ

On paper it is your fault. I disagree with it 100% but that is how it works. Whatever vehicle hit the damaged vehicle is liable, whether another car pushed that vehicle or not.

As I said, my aunt's car was parked, PARKED and she was liable for the car that her car hit. Of course the insurance company will fight the person who started the chain reaction to get compensated but unfortunately that is how it works.

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

One thing to never do is admit fault. Secondly the insurance wants to minimize their costs and pay you as little as possible.

My mom totalled her Lexus, the insurance only wanted to give her 24k and fix it claiming it was worth much more about 32k. She bought it years prior and put 20k more miles on it and only paid it for 27k.

It was a hassle, and the shop manager of the place was a dick, this was at northtown auto in buffalo ny

Alicia21

Thanks for the help guys!

His policy (StateFarm) is accountable for everything- he admitted fault and I brought the car to one of their body shops, whom I know is a good one, in town and they are sending the estimate over.
One GOOD THING about StateFarm is that they will not total the car until damages exceed 70% and right now, even with them disassembling, I'm at 63% so I'm hoping I should be okay. The aftermarket invoices I sent in should at least raise the value enough to where if they're on the line about it that they will decide in my favor.
If not, I'll try bitching, women are awesome at that.

I was just trying to get some information incase things don't turn out the way I'm hoping and I had to start looking for a new car. =/

Florida insurance is *****.

Sorry, btw, pics would have helped. I thought I had uploaded them.
The biggest damage cost wise is the body that pushed in under the trunk area. Frame rails are fine, though.
Cracked radiator support, so I'd have to replace that whole stupid piece.
Other than that it's just a lot of cosmetic issues and an organ on the black market for some 06+ headlights.








And this was pre-wreckage :'(

NismoDude

Alicia,

Glad to hear u were OK and the ins co is working with you.

Read my post again.

Honestly, if it is even CLOSE, I personally would rather have the vehicle totalled and go buy another (unless it was something rare you couldn't replace - like a 93-98 Supra Turbo, etc)

Used Z's are a dime a dozen, and it wouldn't be hard to find a clean used one, if that is what you wanted.

The problem with cars that have had extensive repair is that no matter how well done, they are often NEVER the same.

Meaning it is very easy for any trained eye to tell when a car has had body repair or repainting - which WILL lower your resale value - often considerably so.


One of my friends had her car almost totaled out. It was in the shop for months, and then for years after that it constantly had electrical problems and problems with the A/C and radiator/cooling system.

Just something to consider......

Alicia21

I read your post =/.

The only problem with that is I still have a loan out on the car and Statefarm is only willing to give me 17.4k for it. And I'm also a full time student with a full time job so looking for a new car would take time that I don't necessarily have to travel to get one for a good deal.
If anyone isn't familiar with Tallahassee, it isn't the place to buy a car. lol

I understand what you're saying for the sake of longevity of the vehicle and resale value, though.

RUNWDVL

iTrader: (10)

Noooooooooooo not the Daytona Blue!!!!!

Glad you are okay and problems being taken care of.

350zchad

iTrader: (1)

highly doubt they will pay for aftermarket items.. you have to carry extra rider to cover non standard items.. you will get oem repair if not totaled, but looking at that and what you have said its totaled or as nismo said you want it to be.

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

How much do you owe on the loan?

Could be negative equity if they only will pay x amount

I don't know what they use to value cars but they also look in the area to see what sold at what price. Unfortunately it's winter and lately the prices for z dropped.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Then you will have to take the $17,400 and payoff the loan. What other choice do you have?