What do to next to my Z
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montana
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What do to next to my Z
Hows it going everybody! Today is my first post on this forum and ive got some questions on what i should upgrade in my Z. I have a 2003 Nissan 350z Touring M/T with a Borla Type S Exhaust(purchased with the car). I have some parts already picked out and am going to be paying for this weekend unless you guys interject or have better idea's.
Items I am purchasing include
~5/16" Copper Iso Thermal plenum spacer
~Stillen Hi-Flow Intake Kit
~Stillen Standard Performance Lightweight Crevank Pulley
~Stillen High Capacity Aluminum Oil Pan/No
Those together are running me about $1100
Im not sure where to go after this. Should i get headers? Stage 3 + Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel? I really dont know what to do to add power other then the heavy purchase of the Headers and when i do get those what next. If you guys have any ideas on how to add to my build i would deeply appreciate it. Im trying to push 350-400rwp and im not looking to Turbo or Supercharge my Z for a long time. Im just looking for some Strap on performance boosts. And nothing that is going to cost a grand at a time.
Also ive been looking into flashing my ECU when should i do that? Im looking into Osiris Standard its going to run me about $800 Do i need to get this, this early on? Be nice to me here haha... Is there ways to reset or reprogram my ECU without buying Osiris? Such as a complete power down through disconnecting the power to the battery? Im up in Montana so i have no ways of going to a pro shop to get a dyno tune done or to get a tune built to my knowledge.
Let me know what you guys think. I appreciate you reading this forum and i look forward to your positive criticism and input.
Items I am purchasing include
~5/16" Copper Iso Thermal plenum spacer
~Stillen Hi-Flow Intake Kit
~Stillen Standard Performance Lightweight Crevank Pulley
~Stillen High Capacity Aluminum Oil Pan/No
Those together are running me about $1100
Im not sure where to go after this. Should i get headers? Stage 3 + Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel? I really dont know what to do to add power other then the heavy purchase of the Headers and when i do get those what next. If you guys have any ideas on how to add to my build i would deeply appreciate it. Im trying to push 350-400rwp and im not looking to Turbo or Supercharge my Z for a long time. Im just looking for some Strap on performance boosts. And nothing that is going to cost a grand at a time.
Also ive been looking into flashing my ECU when should i do that? Im looking into Osiris Standard its going to run me about $800 Do i need to get this, this early on? Be nice to me here haha... Is there ways to reset or reprogram my ECU without buying Osiris? Such as a complete power down through disconnecting the power to the battery? Im up in Montana so i have no ways of going to a pro shop to get a dyno tune done or to get a tune built to my knowledge.
Let me know what you guys think. I appreciate you reading this forum and i look forward to your positive criticism and input.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
You need to do some research, my friend. You will be nowhere near 350-400whp N/A. With intake work you don't "need" a tune but once you start messing with the cats you'll actually get something from one. Again, I'd do some research before buying because it sounds like you really don't know what to do or expect from what you're planning on buying.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
You should get a full tune immediately with those mods. I would suggest installing a complete exhaust system at the same time, though it's not as important to tune with outtake.
How many miles? If your clutch is fine and you're not racing, it's not a super important upgrade but it could help.
I would drop the 400whp NA goal before travlee comes in here. It's just not realistic.
Headers aren't too important, there are two main reasons for that:
-You have to take out the engine (well, you don't HAVE to, but you'll be there for a very, very long and ******** amount of time)
-Our stock headers are pretty good, and not restrictive.
Also I can't speak to the personal ECU, you'll have to wait for someone else to yell at you about that one I'm afraid. But there are dynos in every state I believe, it doesn't have to be a nissan shop. Just google dyno near me.
How many miles? If your clutch is fine and you're not racing, it's not a super important upgrade but it could help.
I would drop the 400whp NA goal before travlee comes in here. It's just not realistic.
Headers aren't too important, there are two main reasons for that:
-You have to take out the engine (well, you don't HAVE to, but you'll be there for a very, very long and ******** amount of time)
-Our stock headers are pretty good, and not restrictive.
Also I can't speak to the personal ECU, you'll have to wait for someone else to yell at you about that one I'm afraid. But there are dynos in every state I believe, it doesn't have to be a nissan shop. Just google dyno near me.
#4
You need to do some research, my friend. You will be nowhere near 350-400whp N/A. With intake work you don't "need" a tune but once you start messing with the cats you'll actually get something from one. Again, I'd do some research before buying because it sounds like you really don't know what to do or expect from what you're planning on buying.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
It's tough when you first get on the forums, but try to take it as good advice. I was hostile at first but to this day I thank travlee especially and the rest for helping me go racecar instead of ricecar.
Read around the forums, check the tech area high post threads and pinned threads, and DO NOT join the 350z facebook group.
Set goals for yourself for both the car and personal knowledge, and try to turn wrench yourself as opposed to letting someone do it as much as possible. Everything short of FI you can and should do yourself, especially boltons.
Read around the forums, check the tech area high post threads and pinned threads, and DO NOT join the 350z facebook group.
Set goals for yourself for both the car and personal knowledge, and try to turn wrench yourself as opposed to letting someone do it as much as possible. Everything short of FI you can and should do yourself, especially boltons.
#6
New Member
I wouldn't doubt you're making less than 240 right now.
Full exhaust with LTH are your best bet for additional power. That being said, you'd be lucky to break 270.
Disconnecting your battery won't do anything for you.
Full exhaust with LTH are your best bet for additional power. That being said, you'd be lucky to break 270.
Disconnecting your battery won't do anything for you.
#7
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Welcome and let me throw out some thoughts. Your '03 Touring Z was never designed to be a muscle car, although the VQ pushes it outside the realm of four cylinder sportscars. By now, it could really use a new set of sport shocks and maybe some stiffer roll bars to sharpen the already sharp handling.
But what it really needs is a better nut behind the wheel. How about investing some of that budget on your own driving skills? Being up in Montana, there's an SCCA region near you that's holding autocross events this summer. Consider going out to one and finding out what you and your Z are capable of. They may even have a solo school designed to help you refine and build your driving skills. You'll find a lot of Z pilots have taken this low-cost approach and discovered what a Z is really capable of.
But what it really needs is a better nut behind the wheel. How about investing some of that budget on your own driving skills? Being up in Montana, there's an SCCA region near you that's holding autocross events this summer. Consider going out to one and finding out what you and your Z are capable of. They may even have a solo school designed to help you refine and build your driving skills. You'll find a lot of Z pilots have taken this low-cost approach and discovered what a Z is really capable of.
Trending Topics
#8
Take it easy on the bolt-ons. My suggestion is to put them on the bottom of your wishlist or save up to go FI. You'll realize that NA power mods aren't really worth it for the price.
Stop trying to reach an unrealistic number on the dyno and focus on suspension, brakes, lightweight wheels, etc. I guarantee that you'll be wayyy more satisfied...
Stop trying to reach an unrealistic number on the dyno and focus on suspension, brakes, lightweight wheels, etc. I guarantee that you'll be wayyy more satisfied...
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
The fastest cheapest way to get 400whp is trurbo or SC. Don't be fooled by the numbers they put on the website on intakes and exhaust. But best advice I can give u is get breather mods, intake, headers, test pipes, exhaust. And then get a tune. U should gain some good amount of HP. No where near 400, but should sound a lot better and you will get some noticable gains. anything after that is going to be very expensive. Just be happy u drive a Z. If u want more NA power u need to move up to a V8.
Last edited by Golden_Armz; 06-28-2016 at 07:00 AM.
#10
this, and look at his sig.... his hr only hit 290, my hr with full bolt on-s only hit 286. to put thing in perspective for you, my z06 with heads, headers and a tune is only putting out 497.... and it is a 7 liter motor. if you think you are going to get anywhere over 260 whp with your de, you are going to be really disappointed
#12
You should get a full tune immediately with those mods. I would suggest installing a complete exhaust system at the same time, though it's not as important to tune with outtake.
How many miles? If your clutch is fine and you're not racing, it's not a super important upgrade but it could help.
I would drop the 400whp NA goal before travlee comes in here. It's just not realistic.
Headers aren't too important, there are two main reasons for that:
-You have to take out the engine (well, you don't HAVE to, but you'll be there for a very, very long and ******** amount of time)
-Our stock headers are pretty good, and not restrictive.
Also I can't speak to the personal ECU, you'll have to wait for someone else to yell at you about that one I'm afraid. But there are dynos in every state I believe, it doesn't have to be a nissan shop. Just google dyno near me.
How many miles? If your clutch is fine and you're not racing, it's not a super important upgrade but it could help.
I would drop the 400whp NA goal before travlee comes in here. It's just not realistic.
Headers aren't too important, there are two main reasons for that:
-You have to take out the engine (well, you don't HAVE to, but you'll be there for a very, very long and ******** amount of time)
-Our stock headers are pretty good, and not restrictive.
Also I can't speak to the personal ECU, you'll have to wait for someone else to yell at you about that one I'm afraid. But there are dynos in every state I believe, it doesn't have to be a nissan shop. Just google dyno near me.
#13
That's not bad, I made 291whp, 265wtq on a dynapak that reads about 10whp less compared to other dynapaks in my area. I have already bought tomei 264 cams and headers, and test pipes pending install. I'm hoping to hit maybe 310 since the last car my tuner tuned with cams did 307whp but I have better mods and will also have an ACT stage one with flywheel. I currently have Injen intakes, Nismo s tune and berk HFC's tuned on osiris.
Last edited by MyZ32TT; 06-28-2016 at 07:05 AM.
#14
Registered User
Light weight fly wheel, light wheels and sticky tires, and that about as best as youll get.
400whp NA is hard to do on a V8 let a lone a whimpy de.
You want 400whp for cheal? Get a nitrous set up and call it a day.
400whp NA is hard to do on a V8 let a lone a whimpy de.
You want 400whp for cheal? Get a nitrous set up and call it a day.
#15
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Welcome and let me throw out some thoughts. Your '03 Touring Z was never designed to be a muscle car, although the VQ pushes it outside the realm of four cylinder sportscars. By now, it could really use a new set of sport shocks and maybe some stiffer roll bars to sharpen the already sharp handling.
But what it really needs is a better nut behind the wheel. How about investing some of that budget on your own driving skills? Being up in Montana, there's an SCCA region near you that's holding autocross events this summer. Consider going out to one and finding out what you and your Z are capable of. They may even have a solo school designed to help you refine and build your driving skills. You'll find a lot of Z pilots have taken this low-cost approach and discovered what a Z is really capable of.
But what it really needs is a better nut behind the wheel. How about investing some of that budget on your own driving skills? Being up in Montana, there's an SCCA region near you that's holding autocross events this summer. Consider going out to one and finding out what you and your Z are capable of. They may even have a solo school designed to help you refine and build your driving skills. You'll find a lot of Z pilots have taken this low-cost approach and discovered what a Z is really capable of.
Driver mods.... Only mod you can take with you when you move on to your next carS.
Dave, you beat me to my own punchline. Hahahaaaaa!
#18
New Member
Was that in a DE?
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Hows it going everybody! Today is my first post on this forum and ive got some questions on what i should upgrade in my Z. I have a 2003 Nissan 350z Touring M/T with a Borla Type S Exhaust(purchased with the car). I have some parts already picked out and am going to be paying for this weekend unless you guys interject or have better idea's.
Items I am purchasing include
~5/16" Copper Iso Thermal plenum spacer
~Stillen Hi-Flow Intake Kit
~Stillen Standard Performance Lightweight Crevank Pulley
~Stillen High Capacity Aluminum Oil Pan/No
Those together are running me about $1100
Im not sure where to go after this. Should i get headers? Stage 3 + Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel? I really dont know what to do to add power other then the heavy purchase of the Headers and when i do get those what next. If you guys have any ideas on how to add to my build i would deeply appreciate it. Im trying to push 350-400rwp . . . .
Items I am purchasing include
~5/16" Copper Iso Thermal plenum spacer
~Stillen Hi-Flow Intake Kit
~Stillen Standard Performance Lightweight Crevank Pulley
~Stillen High Capacity Aluminum Oil Pan/No
Those together are running me about $1100
Im not sure where to go after this. Should i get headers? Stage 3 + Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel? I really dont know what to do to add power other then the heavy purchase of the Headers and when i do get those what next. If you guys have any ideas on how to add to my build i would deeply appreciate it. Im trying to push 350-400rwp . . . .
#20
New Member
My '03 touring 5at dynoed at 249hp/229tq on a dynojet. Mine has the following
JWT pop charger
Motordyne 5/16" plenum spacer
Berk hfc's
Borla true dual exhaust
UpRev Osiris, dyno tuned at Dynosty
you can make a little more hp to the wheels with a 6mt but not that much more. Long tube headers and cams will add more hp but at that point, you're dropping a lot of coin for minimal gains. It cost me roughly $2600 to gain 30hp(219hp baseline) and I'd say a lot of that has to do with the tune.
JWT pop charger
Motordyne 5/16" plenum spacer
Berk hfc's
Borla true dual exhaust
UpRev Osiris, dyno tuned at Dynosty
you can make a little more hp to the wheels with a 6mt but not that much more. Long tube headers and cams will add more hp but at that point, you're dropping a lot of coin for minimal gains. It cost me roughly $2600 to gain 30hp(219hp baseline) and I'd say a lot of that has to do with the tune.