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So I jumped on ebay and bought a seat heater switch in loo of the VDC switch.
(switch came from a G35)
(*Edit. I didn't like that the G35 switch didn't match up so I bought a 350z switch.)
I grabbed my wire tester and started poking at the wires to see what ones are connected when the switch is on / off.
The future plan.
1. paint the switch. Color, unsure... red?
2. Insert the switch in the middle of the seat heater switches. There's a blank there, I hope it fits proper.
3. Cut the GROUND wire to the YAW/VDC module that's in the center console and connect it to the switch via the Yellow and Black wires. So with the switch on the UP position, the ground would be working as normal. When the switch is off (Middle) or on the low heat seating the ground will be pulled, thus disabling the VDC fully.
If I'm missing something here guys, let me know.
Last edited by Franknbeans; 05-08-2018 at 08:24 AM.
I've enjoyed reading through your track day build! I'll probably start my own shortly! I did my first two days in summer of 2017 in my 350Z Nismo!
Originally Posted by Bak3rme
wish u installed the SS lines first...did a review..then cylinder brace and a review. I wanna see if that brace makes a difference as much as I believe .
Bak3rme, you asked about the SS lines - I had my Z1 SS brake lines installed and the fluid swapped for Motul (IIRC?) before the first event I did. With the Brembos, lines, and fluid, I didn't experience any real fade, but it was also my first time out, so I doubt I was pushing hard enough to make a difference (although I did get my Pilot Sport 3 A/S tires greasy enough to lose grip in corners).
I have had the clutch sticking to the floor issue in spirited driving before the track day, so I also had the Z1 insulated SS clutch line installed (again with Motul IIRC). I've had no issues with the clutch sticking over two hot track days, and a few spirited paced laps at VIR since the change.
Got the VDC switch installed. FYI the G35 seat heater switch is not the same size and shape as the 350z one. Since I already had the switch and payed for the switch, I made it work. But I believe a stock 350z switch would of looked nicer.
Took the Z for a drive today. No oil leaks! The temp gauge worked fine and I watched the temperature go up and down, so I assume the cooler is working along with the thermal plate.
The Full VDC switch is working too. So nice to be able to do a burn out now. LOL Can't wait for track season.
Got my a new SNELL 2015 helmet for this year too.
Trying a new look, go fast stickers!
Kick myself in the butt. After putting the front end back together, I've decided to get a larger steering rack cooler. So, I guess, it all comes back off now. LOL
The FULL VDC off switch, OMG, it's great. There was no interference that I had last year on some hard braking corners. I did get the *** a little squirrely on the second lap. Hard brake corner, cold tires, left turn.... But once things warmed up it was great.
The oil temp gauge. My power wire that i tapped into a fuse with on the fuse panel worked it's way loose and I lost power to the gauge. I didn't have time to fix it because I volunteered to help out the TNiA staff during the event. Popped the panel, wiggled the wire and all is good. I just kept an eye on the water temp gauge like last year. All seemed well.
I have to apologize for the audio quality. I tried an external mic on the GoPro and apparently it was to windy still, hence the popping.
First lap was under yellow... and there's half a lap cool down at the end... Not real exciting, but I did pass some cars so that's a plus.
Looking good. Still have brake issues? Knock back could be attributed to bad wheel bearings. They are know to fail on z's and should be replaced for a track car.
Last year I ran the Hawk Blue Racing Pads. I thought the pads were just getting over heated and loosing their grip. So I some some money and got some Carbon Tech XP10 front and XP8 rear.
They held up a lot better. Just a little fade towards the end of the 2nd and 3rd session.
Another Track Night in America event later today. I did some tinkering with the Z yesterday.
Replaced the tranny and Diff fluid.
I cut down the read dust shields to help with cooling. I left the the top to help protect the rubber joint.
I also have a set of rims for track and road. Both with air pressure sensors but the track tires aren't synced with the car. Upon reading on the board here I found that all you have to do is ground out the white wire under the passenger side of the dash.
I got a momentary switch and used that for an easy ground. This will make it much easier to sync my TPS now.
I was curious to see what the brake-shield trim did for you. I used to have occasional trouble with boiling fluid on the back straight at VIR (w/Brembos). Not total failure, just a long pedal. I trimmed off the entire front shields two years ago and haven't had a problem since. The theory (at least) is it allows more free-flowing air through the vanes.
01-28-2018, 09:08 AM
