So I jumped on ebay and bought a seat heater switch in loo of the VDC switch.
(switch came from a G35)
(*Edit. I didn't like that the G35 switch didn't match up so I bought a 350z switch.)


I grabbed my wire tester and started poking at the wires to see what ones are connected when the switch is on / off.


The future plan.

1. paint the switch. Color, unsure... red?
2. Insert the switch in the middle of the seat heater switches. There's a blank there, I hope it fits proper.
3. Cut the GROUND wire to the YAW/VDC module that's in the center console and connect it to the switch via the Yellow and Black wires. So with the switch on the UP position, the ground would be working as normal. When the switch is off (Middle) or on the low heat seating the ground will be pulled, thus disabling the VDC fully.


If I'm missing something here guys, let me know.

 

Hey Franknbeans,

I've enjoyed reading through your track day build! I'll probably start my own shortly! I did my first two days in summer of 2017 in my 350Z Nismo!

Bak3rme, you asked about the SS lines - I had my Z1 SS brake lines installed and the fluid swapped for Motul (IIRC?) before the first event I did. With the Brembos, lines, and fluid, I didn't experience any real fade, but it was also my first time out, so I doubt I was pushing hard enough to make a difference (although I did get my Pilot Sport 3 A/S tires greasy enough to lose grip in corners).

I have had the clutch sticking to the floor issue in spirited driving before the track day, so I also had the Z1 insulated SS clutch line installed (again with Motul IIRC). I've had no issues with the clutch sticking over two hot track days, and a few spirited paced laps at VIR since the change.

 

Got some more goodies in the mail this week.
Picked up a dove tail spoiler, front splitter, oil cooler and oil temp gauge.

Still going to work on a brake duct system while the bumper is off for the oil cooler.

 

Got the VDC switch installed. FYI the G35 seat heater switch is not the same size and shape as the 350z one. Since I already had the switch and payed for the switch, I made it work. But I believe a stock 350z switch would of looked nicer.

 

Ok, So I started the install of the Oil Temp Gauge. I thought about deleting the Volt gauge and put it in there but decided to put it in the door.

This was a big PITA. I ran a zip tie through the rubber sleeve, Taped the wires to the zip tie and pulled them through.


I drilled a hole in the connector where there were no pins were being used and put the wires through the hole.


I then drilled a hole in the other side of the connector so I could get the wires to pass through to the inside.






I pulled the speaker, ran the wires for the gauge, through the inside of the door and out the rubber grommet where the other wires come through.



Here you can see how I installed the gauge into the air vent.

 

Oil cooler installed.

I just need to wire in the sensor at the motor and finish the gauge install.

 

Gauge is all hooked up. Waiting on a couple other parts before putting everything back together.

It even dims at night and turns on the Oil Temp lettering in white.





I also installed the bumper intake.

 

Took the Z for a drive today. No oil leaks! The temp gauge worked fine and I watched the temperature go up and down, so I assume the cooler is working along with the thermal plate.

The Full VDC switch is working too. So nice to be able to do a burn out now. LOL Can't wait for track season.

Got my a new SNELL 2015 helmet for this year too.
Trying a new look, go fast stickers!

 

Kick myself in the butt. After putting the front end back together, I've decided to get a larger steering rack cooler. So, I guess, it all comes back off now. LOL

 

Ok, first track day for 2018 was on 4/26.

The FULL VDC off switch, OMG, it's great. There was no interference that I had last year on some hard braking corners. I did get the *** a little squirrely on the second lap. Hard brake corner, cold tires, left turn.... But once things warmed up it was great.

The oil temp gauge. My power wire that i tapped into a fuse with on the fuse panel worked it's way loose and I lost power to the gauge. I didn't have time to fix it because I volunteered to help out the TNiA staff during the event. Popped the panel, wiggled the wire and all is good. I just kept an eye on the water temp gauge like last year. All seemed well.

I have to apologize for the audio quality. I tried an external mic on the GoPro and apparently it was to windy still, hence the popping.

First lap was under yellow... and there's half a lap cool down at the end... Not real exciting, but I did pass some cars so that's a plus.

 

Did some tinkering on the Banana today.

I had to replace the washer fluid pumps. Easy...

Since I had the nose off, I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the power steering cooler.










Those cooler fins are SHARP

 

Looking good. Still have brake issues? Knock back could be attributed to bad wheel bearings. They are know to fail on z's and should be replaced for a track car.

What pads are you running? Non brembo?

 

Wheel bearings are good still. No issues.

Last year I ran the Hawk Blue Racing Pads. I thought the pads were just getting over heated and loosing their grip. So I some some money and got some Carbon Tech XP10 front and XP8 rear.

They held up a lot better. Just a little fade towards the end of the 2nd and 3rd session.

 

Got a in action picture from the Track Night.

 

Another Track Night in America event later today. I did some tinkering with the Z yesterday.

Replaced the tranny and Diff fluid.

I cut down the read dust shields to help with cooling. I left the the top to help protect the rubber joint.




I also have a set of rims for track and road. Both with air pressure sensors but the track tires aren't synced with the car. Upon reading on the board here I found that all you have to do is ground out the white wire under the passenger side of the dash.

I got a momentary switch and used that for an easy ground. This will make it much easier to sync my TPS now.

 

New Carbon Tech brake pads are working great. I didn't notice to much "cooling" by removing the dust shield on the rear but I can't hurt to do it.

 

I was curious to see what the brake-shield trim did for you. I used to have occasional trouble with boiling fluid on the back straight at VIR (w/Brembos). Not total failure, just a long pedal. I trimmed off the entire front shields two years ago and haven't had a problem since. The theory (at least) is it allows more free-flowing air through the vanes.

 

Hummm.. I didn't touch the front ones.... I should look into that as well.


I think next month I'll be taking my Grand Sport to see how it does.

 

Ok, Trimmed up the front dust shields on the Z. Hope it helps. Can't hurt at all.


Also, the TPS momentary button I put in works great.. . . Come to find out I don't have TPS sensors in my second set of rims... UGH.

 

So, I know it's more looks than down force but I got a Duck Tail spoiler panted and installed.