moontune

Hey guys, I am in desperate need for some help removing the factory rear camber arms. I got the outer nut and bolt out easily, but when removing the inner one, the nut snapped off and I cannot seem to force the bolt out in any way. All videos I have watched show this bolt sliding out with ease, I have tried hammering the hell out of it and just cannot find a way to get it out. There are no threads in the arm so it should be able to slide out right??

jhc

Wow, sorry for that!
I just did mine a few weeks ago, lil bit of a PITA on the floor.

Obviously the bolt is eccentric. What worked best for me was putting my jack under the hub and raising (slightly) it until I could spin the bolt freely with a socket wrench. Then I turned the bolt until it came to the point with as little resistance as possible.( A very short rotating distance where there was almost no resistance.)

At that point I was able to push it forward and out of the linkage with my fingers.

You will need the new toe bolts to be professionally installed with a carbide tip most likely. Ace Hardware should have something close if you need to limp over to your mechanic.

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

moontune

Thanks for the response, I did try jacking up the hub at different levels.. still no luck. That bolt is really stuck in there for something that is supposed to spin freely..

$50 to anyone in the Boston area that can come pop it out

jhc

Here's another thought since you have salted roads- PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench soaking overnight as a lube. Then get a cheater bar and try pressing down/up/left/right on the joint. If you can understand where it's binding, you have a better chance to reverse it.

Also there's a user up by you who's really good at sorting things out, but I can't tag him.
pm dboyzalter on here.

Swaglife81

Automatic transmission fluid and Acetone in a 50/50 mix will break rust/stuck bolt twice as easy as liquid wrench, pb blaster, etc. I've seen a good amount of tests and the acetone/auto trans fluid mix freed up double the amount of torque for a stuck bolt over the best spray penetrant. Krill scored second I think that's how it's spelled. All the other brands required over a 100+ extra ft lbs of torque.

Sometimes it's a combination of tricks to free up a bolt. Use a dropped or whatever penetrant u use and let it soak. Overnight will yield the best results. I imagine you didn't spray those bolts over night prior to install.

Grab a small chisel/dead blow hammer and not a hammer or rubber hammer, dead blow and hit in some of the areas you didn't hit when you were hammering on it. Use a mini torch and heat the bolt like hell. You can even throw a socket in the freezer for a while. The heating expanding/cooling, etc is often enough.

After all the above and jacking under the hub will free it up, I'm willing to count on it. The hub idea above is great if the bolt isn't siezed in there, once it's free and you broke the rust free that's when you still want to jack up on the hub to release tension. If there is anything else your doing under there spray everything now. The mistake way to many people make on their own cars is spraying penetrant and expecting magic to always happen in just a few minutes.

Reply back with an update and pics


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yosip1115

Seems like the threads are rusted to the inside of the bushing's collar. If you turn the nut does the camber arm spin with it? If so, you can try PB blaster and a large (3lb+) hammer to knock the bolt out. You're going to have to hit it like a gorilla because the bushing will absorb a lot of the shock. If that doesn't work you're going to have to grind the ends off of the bolt until you can slide the arm out with the rusted bolt still in there. Not that much grinding at all with a good grinding wheel. I live in Rhode Island, near providence. If it won't be more than an hour I can go up there after work one night. 860-480-351two

zakmartin

Liquid Wrench is awesome. PB Blaster is garbage (and I completely stand by that assertion.) 50/50 homebrew is the best, but you need a good container to put it in or it leaks everywhere. Your typical oil squirt bottle will eventually leak and creatte a mess.

Bolts like this generally benefit from lots of heat to break the rust loose. Get them to glow red with an oxy/acet rig and hammer them out. Otherwise, soak the area in the 50/50 homebrew and push the bolt out with an appropriately sized 2-arm puller. Assuming the camber arm can take the pressure, the puller's center bolt will push the stuck camber bolt out (use an impact wrench on the puller if you can get one.)

Speaking of air tools, an air hammer would be another sure bet.

Bak3rme

iTrader: (1)

what part of boston, maybe i can swing by after work tmr. installed my own but didn't have that sort of problem. the rust underneath urs is scary.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Bolt and bushing have become one, what a pain in the A

moontune

Haven't been able to get back outside and try some more of the suggestions here, but once I do get it out.. will the SPC toe bolts that came with their camber kit work for the camber arm as well? Everything I see for "350z rear camber bolts" just points me to toe bots.. If they are different can someone please send me a link to the right bolt I need for the inner part of the camber arm?

moontune

I'm in Newton btw, right off the pike.

moontune

Is this what I need for the inner camber arm bolts since I cant use one of my broken oem ones?
I cant find oem ones..

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Mine was the same way, it's actually still sitting on the subframe and im using it as a kick stand to hold that up in my shed...

I believe the problem is the bushing has siezed itself into the bolt causing a whole bunch of frustration and unhappiness for all who need to removed it...

I attempted to get this out with lots pf different tools and honestly the subframe started flexing before this budged...

With all that being said my suggestion is carefully cut the bolt on both sides with a sawzall and a fresh blade... If your scared of damaging the subframe I would cut right through the camber arm and through the bolt and remove it that way.

I understand your frustration

Also from Massachusetts

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Yeah if your installing adjustable arms that's what you want... You could make your own from some bolts from Rockys and some aluminum if your handy... Or you could get a set from spl or a bunch of other sources.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...it-p-5094.html

Can read all about it.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

O yeah you can also heat it with a torch and then hope the bushing burns out... It will be a stinky gross toxic mess and your neighbors will hate you... But it should work.

moontune

Yup, ended up having to get the car up on a lift and torch those bushings out.. thought this was going to be a quick project!

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

How was my description of the torch method?

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

id like to take this opportunity to say that yes, it was 121 degrees last week here in AZ, but fk all this noise w the rust. oh hayl no.

moontune

So I got my car aligned after the miserable install.. the tech said they put everything back to factory spec with a +6 toe... I assume he meant caster by this??