just my two cents, but having an 'imported' engine doesn't really mean anything (to me) - it's not like anyone is gonna check your engine serial number and know that your engine came from japan...seeing that the car was 'imported' originally it's just a big zero ... (not saying this is you) at a car meet/cars&coffee someone tells me a part or piece or whatever came from japan I just shrug my shoulders like who cares? I just assume they overpaid for it, paid for shipping, and had to wait an additional 2weeks for it to come in - but, to each their own!

I think you open yourself up to a little bit of risk in that if that engine has something (or doesn't has something) that your original engine did (or didn't have) and it's just makes things harder and more problematic ... and the last thing you need is more problems.

if you're gonna put an OEM engine back in, find one from a salvaged/wrecked/rear-ended car. If youre going to strengthen the engine, get a crate motor from Z1 or IPP or whoever, or do it yourself with the help of a good mechanic.

 

Between 142 and 180psi. Cloudy oil.. Do you mix your coolant yourself or buy premixed?

 

 

 

I hear ya ... there was a point back in 2011 when I didnt have the cash to pay a shop to do things on the car and from that point forward unless I absolutely had to, I was determined to do everything myself. I completely understand what youre saying with seat time.

I think the 'risk' is equal in either scenario ... you could get a bad engine or an engine that has a problem in T minus 6500 miles and it could blow up on you. If it was me, assuming your original engine is mend-able, I'd rebuild it ... that way you know the condition, parts, methodology that went into it from start to finish.

Im not saying a imported engine is a bad move and I wouldnt think less of you if you moved towards that direction...give 'em hell either way.

 

Yea anything under 120 compression is not good. Anything under 110 is junk. Those 105's are low.

Clearly something is jacked. If you're open to getting the new motor. I'd say pull it, run the new one and salvage the old blown block for parts and to also find out what actually went out.

That way you can see the inside and familiarize your self with the VQ, at the same idea see what went wrong so you can try to prevent it next time or know when it happens again. Have a visual and know what it looks like.

 

Just seeing what your ratios are. I've noticed in some cases, like in a 60/40(water) scenario, the oil will appear cloudy as opposed to the typical marbled look when present in the crankcase... But that engine is pretty much done, as it sits. So now I would just start thinking about your next course of action.

 

Already put a deposit down on a new one. Should be here next week and get the swap done next weekend

 

Nice to finally have a thread of someone who actually is looking to keep their Z running for once. And actually fix what they broke and not throw a fit about it.

Started getting tired of the high school tweens who come in asking for help and get mad when they have to pay up after showing off and breaking sht at night car meets for their friends.

 

Good stuff. I'll drink to that.

 

Dude I'm just looking to drive the ****ing thing haha. I've driven it less than 100 miles since owning it. Bought it for 3500. Needing a new motor will still put me in at a fair price if you think of it as a 2003 Clean Titled Z with 50k miles. But yeah. I was that high school tween once upon of time. Back in the Prelude days.